linked one ton escalade (coming back soon)

[85k5witha6.2]

https://derale.com/product-footer/f...gm-4l80-4l80e-transmission-cooling-pan-detail

I was thinking about ordering this to replace the 2 ugly factory coolers I had lying around when I built it, will this be enough for the trans and for the steering? Trans is also still going through the radiator. Or is there a better option? I’d like something that’s more than plenty, but not quite wanting to spend CBR money..

 

[85k5witha6.2]

I realized now that I have that new rear crossmember welded in it would be very easy to move the lower links farther in adding more triangulation and Creating room for rear steer.and more driveshaft protection


And then looking at it I could remove some triangulation from the front lower links and maybe get them up a little higher to help with the ground clearance

 

[skunked]

https://derale.com/product-footer/f...gm-4l80-4l80e-transmission-cooling-pan-detail

I was thinking about ordering this to replace the 2 ugly factory coolers I had lying around when I built it, will this be enough for the trans and for the steering? Trans is also still going through the radiator. Or is there a better option? I’d like something that’s more than plenty, but not quite wanting to spend CBR money..

I haven’t seen anyone use one of these dual purpose coolers however I run derale coolers without any issues. I recommend keeping the radiator plumbed in before the transmission cooler.

 

[85k5witha6.2]

I haven’t seen anyone use one of these dual purpose coolers however I run derale coolers without any issues. I recommend keeping the radiator plumbed in before the transmission cooler.

I think I’m going to get just a single cooler and a little bit bigger Bar and plate style or whatever, they’re supposed to be better I think?

 

[Capt Ron]

But if anyone in the Denver area wants some stuff cut out while I try to figure this thing out....

How thick of material will your table cut?

 

[skunked]

I think I’m going to get just a single cooler and a little bit bigger Bar and plate style or whatever, they’re supposed to be better I think?

yeah that’s what I have. -8 an transmission cooler with the fan and one of those log style coolers in -6an for the power steering. Pretty simple....

 

[85k5witha6.2]

How thick of material will your table cut?

it will pierce and cut 3/4 but will cut 1.25 with an edge start. It cuts 1/4 and 3/8 reeeeeeal nice.

 

[85k5witha6.2]

You just can’t understand what this looks like in person.. it’s silly.

Rear coilover just barely touches the frame right at the limit strap. Easy fix. The lower could’ve been moved out 1/2” but I originally didn’t have the wheelspacers.

front seems to all clear other than my terrible bumpstop mounts that I need to cut off and redo with king air bumps.

 

[stump_puller]

That is so sick looking. Love seeing the flex shots of this.

 

[85k5witha6.2]

That is so sick looking. Love seeing the flex shots of this.

thank you! That’s about all it’s good for right now

 

[85k5witha6.2]

I didn’t give them a measurement for thickness, I guess 1/2” wall will work haha, I guess it’s kind of hard to see in the picture, but the piece has 2 grooves machined into it, now I just need to find some snap rings that fit

 

[85k5witha6.2]

Got bored today and started to clean up my Dana 80 housing and got it cut down to the right width. Need to find pinion angle and set caster after I clean up the driver side tube. Also had an old Dana 44 laying around, the size difference is comical.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

I didn’t give them a measurement for thickness, I guess 1/2” wall will work haha, I guess it’s kind of hard to see in the picture, but the piece has 2 grooves machined into it, now I just need to find some snap rings that fit

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That stub looks like it got awful hot. You have any way to test the hardness?

 

[85k5witha6.2]

That stub looks like it got awful hot. You have any way to test the hardness?

It’s brand new from the driveshaft shop I’m going to have build the driveshafts

 

[JoshHefnerX]

ok, that may have just been from the heat treatment then.

 

[85k5witha6.2]

For some reason the driver side tube was rusted a lot more so I welded and sanded it best I could. Then tried to see how round it was and put one C on, I still can move it with a hammer if If caster isn’t right. I really need to get the Escalade level and measure rear pinion angle but it looks like it’s around 12-15 and then going to try and set the caster around 4-6 degrees?

 

[stan1688]

I remember reading on a thread either on pirate or irate about rear steer. I think a few people who had it said it doesn't need caster in the rear. I don't remember why they said that, but it's what I recall reading. Just thought it was worth sharing.

 

[85k5witha6.2]

I remember reading on a thread either on pirate or irate about rear steer. I think a few people who had it said it doesn't need caster in the rear. I don't remember why they said that, but it's what I recall reading. Just thought it was worth sharing.

after reading a few threads on Facebook a lot of people put caster in and it made sense why when Jesse Haines explained it. Once you start climbing a wall or something, if it has 0 caster it goes to negative right away and the wheels kind of fold over on themselves. If it has some caster tipped forward it doesn’t go negative right away. If that makes sense?

 

[85k5witha6.2]

I had bought a diy 1410 driveshaft kit years ago and took it to the driveshaft shop down the road here today. I went and got a haircut and they called me and said it was done. I was expecting at least a day not 1.5 hours.

going to put it in the front tonight and make sure it clears and spins at full droop and everything, then bolt it to the rear and mount the rear carrier bearing setup, then I’ll be able to measure for the mid shaft and maybe get that soon. I have a very very small budget for 2 more months because I might be buying something large...

 

[85k5witha6.2]

Not sure where I bought these pieces from but they sure didn’t want you to be able to have any suspension movement haha, took a lot of grinding and I got quite a bit out of them, the problem now is the whole drivetrain is definitely tipped back about 6 degrees and I can barely get any droop from rideheight before the driveshaft binds. I need to trim the floor a little more for the 205 and raise the back of the drivetrain up. Wish I would’ve known that before I welded the rear support in. Oops