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Little Input + 12V Cummins Swap

Truck looks great!! There's a lot of leaves in those rear packs. I'm surprised it doesn't ride rough, especailly with so much air in the tires.

I wouldn't get a rebuilt box. I got a rebuilt stock one last year and it had more play in the sector shaft than the one I was replacing. I don't know about a new box though. Check with PSC. They have some heavy duty ones and they can go ahead and tap it for hydraulic lines if you want to go that route in the future.

Keep it up man. You've accomplished a lot more over the last two months than I have on my truck in the last six years!
 
Truck looks great!! There's a lot of leaves in those rear packs. I'm surprised it doesn't ride rough, especailly with so much air in the tires.
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Thanks Andy, I really only added two leafs per pack(the two closest to the axle, not the overload though); you shoulda seen the 1028 I grabbed them from, nuts spring packs, top overloads-huge thick pack-and-thick bottom overloads.. I'm actually runnin not much psi in the tires right now, I think its 37 rear and 45-47 front, maybe less..The ride isnt harsh at all but then again I didnt come from a BMW... I took some toe out of it last night, and now I'm somewhere around 1/2". I actually couldnt believe the difference it made down from 3/4" of toe... As you would expect the truck not only steers quicker now but 3/4" was so much that it slowed the truck down.. The tires didn't show anything untill yesterday afternoon when I noticed a little scollop on the outter lugs of the drivers side front.. I may go to the 1/4" that quite a few people refer to as "the setting"..

I really like Steven at ORD and I'm gunna talk w him today or tomorrow to try and figure out what I'm gunna do w the front end..NorCal_Chris had a good suggestion which I may do but I don't want to ship a ton a crap down here and have it not be right.. As they say on the Island I wanna do it "one time"... I really don't want to spend the kind of cash on a box that PSC wants, would be nice to find one in the classifieds used.. I can tap the box myself, so I'll prob just grab the 2wd one Ludi gave me this weekend and maybe the xj shaft too.. As you know this is a learning curve and I really have at least one revelation a day, right or wrong I'm always thinking about how i can make it better and right now the steering is def the bane of my existance..It goes good and steers fine but it dosent feel indestructable or "connected"... So in order of what I "should do", fix my aux tranny cooler(smoked relay or something), buy new front HD superlift 3.5" springs (because the lift is perfect for me and because the drivers side is sagging bad) 2nd, perform some sort of crossover steering, fix the abortion of the rear lift I have(shackle flip minus a few leves w the other zero rates I have) and invert the U-bolts.. At least thats what I should do, we'll see...Time and money...
 
The XJ shaft makes a difference, especially if your rag joint is on the way out. I installed an XJ shaft on mine and it seems easier to steer.

I think 1/4" toe in to no toe in is the acceptable tolerance. I've heard people praise the merits of both setups. I think mine's set at 1/4" toe in (I haven't checked in a couple of years), but it wanders all over the road. The tires are wearing pretty evenly though.

Go with the Tuff Country HD springs. They ride way better than the Superlifts to me. You want to just do it once, right? :wink1:
 
Go with the Tuff Country HD springs. They ride way better than the Superlifts to me. You want to just do it once, right? :wink1:
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Point taken but Tuff Country dosent make a 3.5" and with the zero rate I'm right where I want to be...The TC is prob a 4" correct? Not to mention if I do a 4" shackle flip on the rear and use a zero rate that means I can remove a spring or two... Then again 5" sounds good right now... 4" springs in the front + zero rate and 4" shackle flip in back + zero rate...=:thinking: BIGGER TIRES:woot:
 
bad larry said:
Then again 5" sounds good right now... 4" springs in the front + zero rate and 4" shackle flip in back + zero rate...=:thinking: BIGGER TIRES:woot:
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Now you're talking. I like how you talk yourself into these things. At this rate, you'll be doing crossover, 56s in front, a full cage and narrowing the front and rear by the end of the year.:D
 
I'M ALL HOT ON THE TRAIL OF HEDDERS NOW... OK...WHAT WILL BOLT IN AND CLEAR THE SHACKLE AND DRIVE SHAFT?:confused: I SEARCHED AND SEARCHED.. NO CONCREAT ANSWERS...
 
i know that thorley's fit. they exit alot higher than the others i have seen. but they are $$$. worth it though.

i have put headers on almost every vehicle i have owned, and usually (not always) the better they fit, the more money they cost. must be for the R&D time instead of copying somebody else's design.

if you had a small block, i bet 73 people would have an answer. but the bbc info just isnt as easy to get. :dunno:

i have thorleys on my 454. but i have only seen the truck 2 times, but from what i recall they fit really well.
 
Nice. He a local or a mainlander like you? Seems kinda built for the Island life.
Any wheeling to speak of?
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AJMBLAZER, Yeah, he's from upstate NY moved down here 5yrs ago...Ford freek! There is some great wheelin up in the mountains to down to the beaches, washouts, mud, sand, all kinds of stuff..It's actually kinda funny, there are a bunch of built rigs down here but they dont wheel um.. I know this guy who has an 88 or 89 wrongler w d44's front and rear, detroit in the back, 8k warn, full cage and some 37" somethings and he spit shines the undercarrage every week, wont drive it when it rains... I was gunna sell my truck last year and some local dude asked me if he could fit 22's on it:sign18: I was like um yeah dude, you can put 38's under it if you want... He was like WOA snap! Some other guy has a built rubicon with like 20's on it, they just don't get it....
 
i know that thorley's fit. they exit alot higher than the others i have seen. but they are $$$
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Those are a handfull of Dogh:doah:and you are totally correct about fit and finnish when pertaining to cost.. I did a search on Pirate and there was a consensus that Hooker competitons will fit pretty decent, not the pro comps but the comps.. Looks like that frame rale is damn close and I find it hard to believe that there wont be any drive shaft interference...
 
bad larry said:
AJMBLAZER, Yeah, he's from upstate NY moved down here 5yrs ago...Ford freek! There is some great wheelin up in the mountains to down to the beaches, washouts, mud, sand, all kinds of stuff..It's actually kinda funny, there are a bunch of built rigs down here but they dont wheel um.. I know this guy who has an 88 or 89 wrongler w d44's front and rear, detroit in the back, 8k warn, full cage and some 37" somethings and he spit shines the undercarrage every week, wont drive it when it rains... I was gunna sell my truck last year and some local dude asked me if he could fit 22's on it:sign18: I was like um yeah dude, you can put 38's under it if you want... He was like WOA snap! Some other guy has a built rubicon with like 20's on it, they just don't get it....
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That disease is everywhere sadly.
 
Best one I've seen lately...

Guy has a newer Wrangler. The new body style out for the last several years. It's a Rubicon. Some lift, 35's I want to say, bumpers, highlift hanging off the front, offroad light, etc. Some company must make 35" highway tires or these are the most non-aggressive all terrains I've ever seen.
It's here in Lexington so the nearest sand dunes are states away. Mud, rocks, and trees. So his tires obviously wouldn't work offroad.

Gets better.

Gas prices went up lately so he put the stock 32" BFG Muds back on it. Now it looks like a roller skate. Guess he never regeared it.:rolleyes:
 
Afternoon guys.. Messin around on the truck this week.. This past monday I decided to install my B&M kit and as you know this is a clean, orginized, slightly technical job.. Every thing went pretty damn good untill I (stupid me didn't verify prior to job) went to install the seperator plate.... They packed the wrong plate for the kit.. I verified the kit part # but not all contents.. Dude I was so FUC!$NG pissed... 8 qut of Valvoline Dex VI synthetic, new filter, $$$..... I drove around all that morning looking for parts, I stopped by the trans shop to see if he had some Torlon check balls, went to all the auto parts stores for fluid, vacume modulator, detent solinoid, vasoline... I had to put the trans back together w the stock parts and new gaskets.. What a waste of time and $$$, good fire drill though...Some of you may have seen a thread I started in the Garage about shift kits, so now since the trans is still stock I took the liberty of ordering the new TransGo 400 Pro kit, should be here 2morrow. I've also got an adjustable vacume modulator comming too...I'll try to get that in this weekend.. I've been debating trying to save the new fluid, we'll se how I feel on Sat.. I installed the ORD steering box brace for kix, I have to say the front end dose feel more solid.. I've had this weird problem since I installed the lift back in Maine B4 I moved, every once in a while the steering wheel will end up in a slightly different position, like not strait...I noticed this after the alingnment I got following the lift install.. I adjusted the draglink to get the wheel back to center a couple of times and then just said Fuc! it.. At first I was like def a center pin broken in the rear end but when I took it apart everything was solid... The front axle isnt going anywhere.. I'm thinking now it may have been the steering box shifting on the frame, the bolts were not "loose" and there was no sign of shifting but I torqued the new bolts to 80ftlbs as they call for and no movement yet... I know I've been saying I'm gunna get that box from my friend Ludi but now I'm def gunna get it this weekend... Anybody had that weird steering situation B4?
 
My truck does that just about every time I straighten the wheel after a turn. Well, maybe not that often, but I can literally drive to work one day and the wheel will be pointing slightly to the left and then the next morning on the way in, it will be pointing over to the right a little. The problem did go away some when I got my u-bolts good and tight (as in a little tighter than you're supposed to have them). Don't tell me you're reusing those u-bolts. Really I think what causes it is the stock style drag link. Even though you have new drag link ends, I believe that sometimes when you turn the steering all the way one way, the drag link kind of flops over to one side or the other and this makes the wheel point a certain way. If you turn the wheel all the way back the other way, it may be pointing in the opposite direction when you straighten back up. Happens to me all the time. Once you go to crossover, it may get rid of that. Don't know for sure though. Just speculation.
 
I forget if he's done the XJ shaft swap. Could be the stock shaft's rag joint too.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
I forget if he's done the XJ shaft swap. Could be the stock shaft's rag joint too.
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This is true. I have the XJ shaft and it still does it though, just not as bad. Another reason mine kept acting up was that one of the lock nuts that holds the steering arm on the knuckle had loosened up and the arm was shifting slightly on the knuckle. I don't know if the D60 has the same setup though.
 
Andy you just answered a question I was gunna ask you... I do believe that my block on top of my knuckle had something to do w that and after the first drive following this last build I had to tighten up the nuts on all 4 studs.. It may still be shifting but dosent show any signs of it, I'll have to get someone in the drivers seat to saw the wheel back and forth.. Yes I did install new Ubolts, I too do not believe in reusing the old ones.. And, yes I also argee that when the TREs are in their different positions on the draglink the steering will appear off; I've actually watched old draglinks pivot on the TREs prior to actually moving the knuckles...

AJM, didn't do the shaft yet.. I've been procrastinating... I guess i'll grab it this weekend... I talked to Steven at ORD last week and i've got to send him some pix so we can more thuroghly discuss my xover options..
 
Good thing you tightened them up when you did. Just one of mine coming loose let the other ones loosen up enough (even though they looked tight) to break two of the three studs and cause my steering to quit working. I had just pulled into a parking space at work. I bumped the curb and straightened the wheel out and I heard a loud BANG. That afternoon when I tried to back out, I could only turn about 10 degrees in either direction. I had to leave it in the parking lot and get a used knuckle from one of the members on here to fix it. Took a couple of weeks and I work on a military base so the Security Forces (Air Force MPs) were getting pissed.
 
There was a guy on SteelSoldiers who had the Superlift steering block on his M1008 literally come apart while driving down the road. Luckily he was going slow on a residential street and managed to just bump it into the curb on the right side.
 
There was a guy on SteelSoldiers who had the Superlift steering block on his M1008 literally come apart while driving down the road. Luckily he was going slow on a residential street and managed to just bump it into the curb on the right side
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Yeah man those things are total POS, if I had any clue when I was installing the lift originally I would have done it different.. There a couple of guys in the classified section selling dropped Drag Links for cheap, i'm gunna get one for the time in between crossover..
 
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