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LMC 4 headlight harness upgrade + Painless low + high headlight kit setup questions

awesome , the harness does have two relays, and can you tell me what the proper size diode would be?? thanks

Since a relay coil takes ~70mA (i.e. .07 amps) it can be almost any regular silicon diode. A 1N4001 would do:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036268

The white stripe is the "negative" side, i.e. the "output", which would go to the positive side of the low beam relay.

The not-striped side is the "positive" side, the "input", which would go the output of the high beam relay. (Well, it could also go on the positive side of the delay coil, doesn't matter.)

-- A
 
posted in response to wiring high beams to low beams...Very simple you need a 5 prong relay and a hot wire(ran to battery and fused as close to battery as possible to prevent short circuit) find your low beam and high beam wires on drivers side behind front clip, cut in half. Mount relay to fender...ground post on relay labled "86"....run low beam wire (from lights) to post labled "30"...run low beam wire (from cab) to post labled "87a"...run high beam wires to same post labled "85"...run new power wire to post labled "87"...Fuse new power wire at 7.5 amps (depending on headlights)...Job Complete. Hopefully this post will help and is not too confusing!
 
that's what i was referring to, all this talk about using diodes, i didn't use one in my setup, and there are no ill effects to the system or draw, or problems with the switch at all...

i DID buy mine as a kit, mainly because i didn't feel like sourcing all the wiring, relay, connectors and i actually wanted the detailed instructions that came with it.

Now that i have done it, i can do it with no problems on other rides :wink1:
 
You can buy the relay at radio shack or any car audio shop, just make sure you have clean grounds and contacts...a relay is about $5. I completed this mod on my 89 so I dont think there is any difference in wiring with the new cab styles. No diodes nessary (can be done but is a little harder). All I do is car wiring so if you have questions or probs, message me.
 
these are great upgrade. :Di got the lenses on ebay for 9.99 a pair and bulbs that were white not the freaking blue(had to search for white tent only) but the white is brighter they were 90/110 and is awsome. all on ebay. but i did get the wire harness from lmc and its deffinitly a great upgrade. everything just plugs in and two wire go to you batt. so its easy and probably on of my top 5 upgrade. :D:D:D:D

Where did you get $10 lenses on ebay?
 
SO...

...bringing this back up as I'm finally in a position to get these. Has anyone used the www.Eurolights.com lights and housings with the LMC harness?

I got the harness a while back and basically have decided if I'm going to do this I might as well not butcher it and get the correct lights for it...but Eurolights has the better bulbs for slightly cheaper than LMC. Just want to make sure they'll work before I spend $156.
 
I used the 71 version lmc harness along with their euro round headlight conversion kit. The bulbs in the lmc kit look identical to the pictures on the eurolight site for the conversion kits. They work great too. Either one is probably fine, especially since lmc probably buys the bulbs from eurolight anyway.

Mine used the round style so they are a bit different that yours, but probably work just as good.
 
I figure as much...just want to make sure. Already scratching my head a bit over the "custom fit" Toyota harness with no instructions and definitely not intended for a diesel K5. Me + electrical = fire so I'm going to do this right if I do it.
 
I used the LMC headlight harness and did the H4/H1 upgrade from www.rallylights.com Really easy to do, it is Hella E-code housings, H4 & H1 bulbs that dont look gh3y and blue. All I had to do IIRC was switch a wire in 2 of the plugs. Really easy.
 
ok i got lazy and didn't read all of this thread but I did the whole LMC euro light conversion and all it is is 100% bolt on swap. For the wiring aspect see this link:

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/headlight-simple.htm

The light pattern is way better than factory sealed beams and way brighter. I highly recomend everyone getting these.

here's how they look:

newlights001.jpg


newlights002.jpg
 
I ordered the 4701 and 4703 housings and Yellow ION bulbs from www.Eurolight.com last night.

We'll see how this goes. Hopefully everything plugs in as they don't seem to have considered that my alternator is on the p-side and the dual battery setup is in the way of a bit of this. Eh, that might solve one of the problems though.

I had a low beam headlight die on me last week and bought a new sealed beam bulb to replace it as an ad hoc measure. The simple fact that it's FAR brighter than the other low beam and almost as bright as the high beams made me realize I had to get off the fence and do something with this.
 
I was thinking about trying these out anyone have experience with them.
I did a hid conversion like this kit has on my Yamaha rhino and oh my god they are awesome no complaints.
 
Hey guys! New to the website, good info all around.
The problem I am having is I recently spent over $100 getting the euro headlight assemblies, bulbs, and harness from LMC.
Everything worked fine with my headlights BEFORE I did the swap. Now, when I turn the headlights on, my left parking light wont come on, and the turn signals work REALLY slow. Not to mention the left turn signal indicator inside stays on. Again, ONLY when the headlights are on.
I made sure the whole thing was hooked up correctly, and it was. Made sure all of the grounds were hooked up correctly, they were.
I guess the only thing I have left to try is to unplug the new harness, and plug the OLD harness back in to the new lights.
Anyone have any ideas on what may be wrong? I was kinda hoping someone might have had this problem before, and could just tell me the fix! lol
Thanks guys!!
Sean
 
80BLZR
When I lose the ground to the rad. support it does this. You need to test how much resistance the rad. support grounds if in fact they are hooked up
 
I had something similar to this happen to me when the ground terminals in the parking light sockets cracked and had intermitent/bad connection.

The turn signal staying on in the cab and no parking light means the parking light circuit is backfeeding through the turn signal circuit in the dash due to a bad ground, I'd bet in the socket, or left side rad support. Or the rad support itself isn't properly grounded as stated earlier.

You can get new sockets if that's the problem. Pretty easy to test for it.
 
I have the dual high and low beam setup on my 94 ext cab p/u, also changed them to HID's difference is awesome especially when headed to the cabin on a dark road. Ordered the kit from painless had it done in 20-30 min. Will be putting Hi-Fours on my Sub as well. The 88 Blazer already has them not sure if it came that way or previous owner.:D:D

New Truck Lights 014.jpg

New Truck Lights 016.jpg

New Low Beam Truck Lights 011.JPG
 
Anybody who ordered from Eurolights/Eurolamps have a contact number for them?

Did it take a while for your order to arrive and were they rather hard to communicate with? When I was first researching their setup they were pretty communicative but since then...not so much. Dunno if they're busy or what but I sent my money via PayPal on the 16th and it was transfered then. Since then I haven't heard bupkess and I've sent two emails about it to each of their two email addy's. Makes me a bit nervous.
 
Well, I heard from them today. They claim they sent a message "from another email address" and apparently they sent it USPS and I should expect it soon. We'll see.
 
They arrived on Thurday and I put them in on Saturday.

The Eurolights are definitely yellow. They were pretty self explanatory and are 70w bulb of a common type (that's name suddenly escapes me). One of the bulbs had a connector that was loose but I fixed that with JBWeld.

The LMC harness though...oy. What an annoyance. Wasn't "plug and play" at all. The plugs on it that were supposed to plug into the d-side light plugs weren't anything close. I ended up cutting the ends of the factory wiring there and the LMC harness and then joining them there. Also had to redo all of the grounds as they had itsy bitsy little loops on them. I was a bit annoyed having to do all this but still, for the money it would have taken me longer to figure this all out myself starting from scratch.

Now to do the low + high conversion.
 

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