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Look what BadAss90K5 scored!

MaxPF

1/2 ton status
Joined
Apr 13, 2006
Posts
2,208
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Location
Chandler, Arizona
This is Brian's (BadAss90K5) daily driver:

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This is the current powerplant:

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Yup, nothing like 7MPG to make you cry :D

Here's what we just scored to replace the 454:

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Mmmm, P-pump :bow:

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She's rated at a furious 160HP :rolleyes: Good thing the P-pumps are easy to crank up :waytogo:

Of course, he's gotta have an OD auto tranny to go along with it. A nice 4L80E ought to do the trick...

r-DSCF2606.JPG


The engine and tranny were ridiculously cheap, so even though he will have to buy quite a few items to make it work in his crew cab it will still be cheaper than if he had bought a Dodge donor. Yes, the engine and tranny was that cheap :D


Now, here's a question. I have the opportunity to buy another one of these, CHEAP. When I say cheap, I mean less than the cost of a rebuilt DB2-4911 and a set of rebuilt injectors for a 6.2 :eek1: :deal: It sure looks tempting... :whistle:

I already know what Luke is going to tell me to do :doah: :haha:
 
I'd know all these things if someone called me once in awhile to shoot the **** :deal:

BTW , when can I swing by todds and grab the goodies ?
 
No, it's from a delivery van. That's why it has the SAE #3 bellhousing and the front sump pan. Brian is going to get the billet bellhousing mount for GM type bellhousings and the billet flexplate. He also needs a rear sump pan and pickup, a different exhaust manifold (probably an aftermarket jobbie, or I might TIG one out of stainless), a suitable inlet (Banks twin ram maybe???), and possibly a different front pulley, depending on how we decide to drive the AC compressor.

I don't know how often the oil was changed, but the interior under the valve covers were absolutely spotless. We heard it run before he plunked down the cash - she fired up instantly and purred like a ki.... well.. a Cummins :p: It had 70lbs of oil pressure and no blue smoke, so I think it should be a good tow rig motor. He just needs to get off his butt and get his cab swapped so we can get on with it :D
 
This is Brian's (BadAss90K5) daily driver:


She's rated at a furious 160HP :rolleyes: Good thing the P-pumps are easy to crank up :waytogo:

Of course, he's gotta have an OD auto tranny to go along with it. A nice 4L80E ought to do the trick...


I already know what Luke is going to tell me to do :doah: :haha:


:haha:







BoooooYA!

A 160hp '95 is what mine is.......was......... rated at :doah:

banks twin ram not worth the money. cause you have to alter/make new injection lines = suck! IIRC the rear intake port is covered by the rear inj lines.

I'm using a 24v 2nd gen ATS arcflow. it'll flow enough for anything you'll ever need. and theres even cheaper ways to make one with a mandrel bend pipe and make a flange. bingo.
Finished02.jpg



BTW I have an extra 3K governor spring kit. cheap cheap. :D
 
:haha:







BoooooYA!

A 160hp '95 is what mine is.......was......... rated at :doah:

banks twin ram not worth the money. cause you have to alter/make new injection lines = suck! IIRC the rear intake port is covered by the rear inj lines.

I'm using a 24v 2nd gen ATS arcflow. it'll flow enough for anything you'll ever need. and theres even cheaper ways to make one with a mandrel bend pipe and make a flange. bingo.
Finished02.jpg



BTW I have an extra 3K governor spring kit. cheap cheap. :D

PM Brian. I'm sure he will relieve you of it. :wink1:

How much HP/boost is the stock turbo (which looks like an HY-35) on these motors good for? I want to keep the boost reasonable - no more than 35psi MAX - in order to keep the stock head gasket alive. More than that anyway = more fuel needed = Brian burning down a piston :doah:
 
40psi is pushing the life limits of the HX/HY35 family. 35 is ok. I have a couple friends grenade stock 35s over 40psi. bark it hard a few times over 40-45psi and BOOM.

you won;t melt a piston down unless you let the EGTs get out of hand and not monitored. it would be #6 or 5. and usually you'd seize the hole not blow through the piston. they're tough engines in small doses right. honestly I had my 24v EGTs over 2000* a few times. but very short bursts. 10 sec or less.


the holes weren't any worse for wear.
Headgasketfailure012.jpg

Headgasketfailure016.jpg
 
No, it's from a delivery van. That's why it has the SAE #3 bellhousing and the front sump pan. Brian is going to get the billet bellhousing mount for GM type bellhousings and the billet flexplate. He also needs a rear sump pan and pickup, a different exhaust manifold (probably an aftermarket jobbie, or I might TIG one out of stainless), a suitable inlet (Banks twin ram maybe???), and possibly a different front pulley, depending on how we decide to drive the AC compressor.

I don't know how often the oil was changed, but the interior under the valve covers were absolutely spotless. We heard it run before he plunked down the cash - she fired up instantly and purred like a ki.... well.. a Cummins :p: It had 70lbs of oil pressure and no blue smoke, so I think it should be a good tow rig motor. He just needs to get off his butt and get his cab swapped so we can get on with it :D

Thanks Max for posting this thread :D

1. The oil pan can be rotated, dip stick may be too long. They can be rotated to the back side of the block as well, the expansion plug will need to be installed in the front hole. If the dip is ok than just move it to the rear. The oil pick up tube will need replaced for a rear sump and a pick up gasket.
2. If using the Dodge clutch fan, the 4 core radiator will need to be replaced with a 2 core...but I probably will get the 6.2 radiator (they're wider) and go the electric fan route.
3. The rest is just time and standard items fluids, clamps, hoses, paint.
4. I'll need a 60psi Boost gauge (1600*) Egt and a trans temp gauge .

This is strictly a rough draft of parts and estimates, not by any means I will get the exact parts within the price range. I may pay more or less, depending on whatever deal falls in my lap.

The conversion parts.

Engine mounts & Engine crossmember $500.00
Engine adapter $1300.00
injectors $ 375 and up
intercooler stock 2nd dodge 94-98 $250-450 .
pipes ,clamps ,boots $ 150.00 to $300.00
Fuel plate $150.00 to $200 mild to wild
Dv $230 to $400.
4K GSK $140.00
60# exhaust springs $$60.00

I'm not ready for big HP yet so I'll just do the cheap mods for now.

1. Install 4K GSK ,6 exhaust valve springs.
2. Fuel plate
3. adjust the fuel and I/P timing.

The conversion can be done for around 6k. I'm hoping to beat that.

And thanks to CrewCab59 for the information.


I can't wait.
 
Brian ain't gonna be watching no gauges when he has his foot stuffed in it :D I gotta make it bomb-proof, or he'll blow it up sure as heck :haha:
 
Thanks Max for posting this thread :D

1. The oil pan can be rotated, dip stick may be too long. They can be rotated to the back side of the block as well, the expansion plug will need to be installed in the front hole. If the dip is ok than just move it to the rear. The oil pick up tube will need replaced for a rear sump and a pick up gasket.
2. If using the Dodge clutch fan, the 4 core radiator will need to be replaced with a 2 core...but I probably will get the 6.2 radiator (they're wider) and go the electric fan route.
3. The rest is just time and standard items fluids, clamps, hoses, paint.
4. I'll need a 60psi Boost gauge (1600*) Egt and a trans temp gauge .

This is strictly a rough draft of parts and estimates, not by any means I will get the exact parts within the price range. I may pay more or less, depending on whatever deal falls in my lap.

The conversion parts.

Engine mounts & Engine crossmember $500.00
Engine adapter $1300.00
injectors $ 375 and up
intercooler stock 2nd dodge 94-98 $250-450 .
pipes ,clamps ,boots $ 150.00 to $300.00
Fuel plate $150.00 to $200 mild to wild
Dv $230 to $400.
4K GSK $140.00
60# exhaust springs $$60.00

I'm not ready for big HP yet so I'll just do the cheap mods for now.

1. Install 4K GSK ,6 exhaust valve springs.
2. Fuel plate
3. adjust the fuel and I/P timing.

The conversion can be done for around 6k. I'm hoping to beat that.

And thanks to CrewCab59 for the information.


I can't wait.

Dood, I'd stick with the 3k governor spring. All 4k will do is blow a bunch of fuel and beat the motor. I don't care who says what, DI's, particularly the pre-common rail jobbies with their lower injection pressure, are hard pressed to effectively burn the fuel that fast. There just isn't enough air motion in the cylinders. Use the Cummins like it was intended - lower speed and higher cylinder pressure. The 6BT has a ton of torque rise, so you don't need the extra 1000 RPM.
 
Brian ain't gonna be watching no gauges when he has his foot stuffed in it :D I gotta make it bomb-proof, or he'll blow it up sure as heck :haha:

Well..... I think I'll be more likely scared and jump out of the Cummins' way before I stomp on the gas. :laugh:
 
I can supply you a 2nd gen intercooler. and a 3K GSK. then you don't have to upgrade valve springs either with a 3K gsk. .

you can grind your own fuel plate for free. I wouldn't change injectors or DVs until you're ready for big power. just grinding and sliding your stock plate and leaving the starwheel loose, you can cook a stock auto or clutch. torque comes on too soon for stock gear to handle.
 
You're right, 3K will be sufficient as I don't want to blow the motor this early in the game, which will probably happen if I don't get my foot under control.

Demon, you have a pm.
 
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