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Look what BadAss90K5 scored!

Yeah, he did. Personally, I would fabricate mounts to bolt the Cummins to the ORD frame mounts.... but that's just me :D
 
crewcab59 mounts use stock GM isolators in the stock location. well the IFS ones anyways. if the ORD doesn't change anything really then it shouldn't matter right?


for visuals heres the stock governor springs and seat on the right. and the 3K governor springs and seat on the left. noticeing the inner spring is much heavier. and the seat puts more tension on the outter spring via the depth of the seat. but remember the idle spring is still in the pump which is the biggest one. you don't remove that one. so you change the "middle" and Inner spring. for the 3GSK. for a 4GSK you actually add another spring inside the smallest so you'd have 4 altogether.

and my 0 plate :doah: but its easy to cut yourself a nice 10 or 100 plate from your stock one.

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The ORD mounts use eye bushings. Here's a pic:

motormounts.JPG


The only bad thing is that they transmit more engine vibes to the frame vs a stock mount, which might not be the hot set up for a Cummins swap... :dunno:

OTOH, it ain't my truck, so I don't see a problem with it :haha:
 
I'd love to keep the big block engine crossmember and DIY4X motor mounts and fabricate something for the cummins side to work with my set-up. I'm concerned that the 5.9L pan will sit too low and hit the ORD crossmember. I won't know until I try it first.
 
I like this design, copied this from another forum, the guy made it for himself so it never became a production item. This is nice work and makes dropping the pan so much easier. Greg, make me one! :D


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Well, Brian is a no good bastige. He goes and gets himself a 6BT, and looking at it and knowing I can go score one for myself is just too much to take. The little guy on my shoulder is yelling "Do it! Do it!" :doah:

I'm gonna give the guy a call tomorrow and see if I can pick it up this coming weekend. What the heck, it's only money, right?

Here's the thing though... I ain't gonna sell it. No, I've got a special place in mind for it :D

So, anyone wanna buy a trick 6.2? :haha:
 
The ORD mounts use eye bushings. Here's a pic:

motormounts.JPG


The only bad thing is that they transmit more engine vibes to the frame vs a stock mount, which might not be the hot set up for a Cummins swap... :dunno:

OTOH, it ain't my truck, so I don't see a problem with it :haha:

A Cummins will eat those up in no time :doah:
 
Dood, I'd stick with the 3k governor spring. All 4k will do is blow a bunch of fuel and beat the motor. I don't care who says what, DI's, particularly the pre-common rail jobbies with their lower injection pressure, are hard pressed to effectively burn the fuel that fast. There just isn't enough air motion in the cylinders. Use the Cummins like it was intended - lower speed and higher cylinder pressure. The 6BT has a ton of torque rise, so you don't need the extra 1000 RPM.


1. Your better of the install a 4k because it's there if you need it .Why spend the $$ out just to get 300 RPMs over stock ???
2. The engine won't be at 4k all the time so ,the wasted fuel you talk about is crazy .
3. Replacing the Valve springs is a good idea to begain with .
 
Is that motor from a military vehicle?

The engine that were painted tan were on road step van ,ag ,bus ,ind water pumps ,light equipment ,off road fork trucks ect .

The dodge trucks black .
The ford F600 F700 some were black ,gray
The Marine were white,gray .
The snow cats were white,or gray .
The fire trucks were black ,red ( newer )

Scott
 
I decided to put in a SM465 instead of the 4L80E, for cost reasons. SM465's are cheap and stupid strong and can take whatever torque I throw at it. I'll need to get a very good clutch to take the torque though. I can toss in a Gear Vendors Overdrive later on but I'll just have to watch my RPM's in the meantime. As for the 4L80E, I need to rebuild it with an extreme duty kit and get a standalone controller for it, all that is big $$$ even if I buy a used kit. As for the SM465, it's all bolt in and ready to go, I may be able to swap the Cummins in sooner than I think.

Still need to get the small stuff, A/C compressor, alternator, ATS Arcflow intake (and maybe the ATS Pulseflow 3 piece exhaust) , hoses and battery cables, etc.. also the GM adapter & flywheel out of a bread truck too.

I'm gonna go with Greg this weekend to load up his 6BT and scout the yards for more parts once I get off work.
 
And one more thing, who sells the KDP kit with the cover gasket and front seal? I've been busy all weekend and haven't had time to search the web.

Greg and I popped the cover off last night and found the dowel pin is more than half way out! :eek1:
 
1. Your better of the install a 4k because it's there if you need it .Why spend the $$ out just to get 300 RPMs over stock ???
2. The engine won't be at 4k all the time so ,the wasted fuel you talk about is crazy .
3. Replacing the Valve springs is a good idea to begain with .

According to this page and other info I have checked, the Cummins 6BT/ISB has a destructive resonance in it's rotating assembly at 4100 RPM, and the damper doesn't provide any damping in that range. Governor overshoot with a 4k kit can put you there, but even running in the mid-upper 3's is going to be getting into the range where the harmonics are building up. The engine isn't really making any more useable power up there either. In my opinion, you're better off grabbing the next gear and getting the engine back in it's power/torque band. I know lots of guys like spinning the snot out of 'em, but I tend to err on the conservative side :wink1:
 
run 'er. I fueled my 24v over 4000rpm many a time. with the Quadzilla Adrenaline 4K tune. racing will put you up there at WOT still. no problems to report. stock damper. you can beat the tar out of these engines and still come out ok. its not a 6.2 that'll break a crank if you show it a big hill and 75psi :doah:

but seriously drivability is whats affected foremost with the governor spring kits. they dont make power, just make it much more user friendy. you have to change the springs with a 4k kit, thats more $$$ there. the 3K kit doesn't just give you a few more RPM, it shifts the whole power band. Tons of good info on that dodgeram.org. I've been in there before too. an aftermarket fluid damper will take leaps and bounds of vibration out of the engine. but thats all not nessisary, slam the 3K gsk and driveability goes up 10fold over stock.

BTW brian you have a postal bubble pack on the way. I have a tracking #.
 
run 'er. I fueled my 24v over 4000rpm many a time. with the Quadzilla Adrenaline 4K tune. racing will put you up there at WOT still. no problems to report. stock damper. you can beat the tar out of these engines and still come out ok. its not a 6.2 that'll break a crank if you show it a big hill and 75psi :doah:

but seriously drivability is whats affected foremost with the governor spring kits. they dont make power, just make it much more user friendy. you have to change the springs with a 4k kit, thats more $$$ there. the 3K kit doesn't just give you a few more RPM, it shifts the whole power band. Tons of good info on that dodgeram.org. I've been in there before too. an aftermarket fluid damper will take leaps and bounds of vibration out of the engine. but thats all not nessisary, slam the 3K gsk and driveability goes up 10fold over stock.

BTW brian you have a postal bubble pack on the way. I have a tracking #.

What are you runni9ng in your 12V? A 3K kit, or a 4K kit?
 
And one more thing, who sells the KDP kit with the cover gasket and front seal? I've been busy all weekend and haven't had time to search the web.

Greg and I popped the cover off last night and found the dowel pin is more than half way out! :eek1:

make your own guage metal tab. off the bolt beside it. buy crank seal at cummins, use anerobic on the cover. better yet stake the dowel back in, then tab it. While you're in there better remove and retorque with blue toctite all the gear housing bolts.
 
What are you runni9ng in your 12V? A 3K kit, or a 4K kit?

4K gsk, zero plate, 191 delivery valve, rack modified for travel and modified afc housing.

edit- but thats all feeding DDP4 150hp injectors. I'm not suggesting you guys should do what I do. but you can if you want :D I'll get a 13mm pump sometime down the road too. after I stud, port and oring the head. do a cam shaft........... :doah:
 
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