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Look what BadAss90K5 scored!

DEMON44 said:
make your own guage metal tab. off the bolt beside it. buy crank seal at cummins, use anerobic on the cover. better yet stake the dowel back in, then tab it. While you're in there better remove and retorque with blue toctite all the gear housing bolts.
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I was thinking about that last night, but I'm also lazy from working my ass off.
 
honestly I just staked mine in on 3 spots. its not coming out. I was too lazy to cut a tab too........:doah:
 
DEMON44 said:
4K gsk, zero plate, 191 delivery valve, rack modified for travel and modified afc housing.

edit- but thats all feeding DDP4 150hp injectors. I'm not suggesting you guys should do what I do. but you can if you want :D I'll get a 13mm pump sometime down the road too. after I stud, port and oring the head. do a cam shaft........... :doah:
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Well, I don't know about Brian, but I'm not so much of a power junkie. How much HP can be had from just a 3k gsk and a modified plate?
 
MaxPF said:
Well, I don't know about Brian, but I'm not so much of a power junkie. How much HP can be had from just a 3k gsk and a modified plate?
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depending on where you set the plate up in the AFC housing and which plate it is. enough to burn up a stock Clutch in short order for sure. total RWHP would depend on all the various specs of the truck too though right. but you could pretty safely double the power output of the engine. the turbo looks like a HC1 holset. good for into the 300hp. not much more. you'd want to upgrade to take it further than that. what size is the turbine housing? .....there should be a number cast into it near the flange that'll be cm3......12, 14, 16, 18,
 
and the engine CPL number........its on the engine tag......just out of view of the pic you took :doah: and the number off the bosch pump tag. the last 3 digits of the center line. tag right behind the fuel shut off linkage near front of pump. and nifty thing they did with the fuel shutoff solenoid there. kind of bulky though, you can get rid of all that off the side of the pump if you fabricator type guys there can get a PTO cable from NAPA and make a bracket to have a mechanical fuel shut off...and hide it under the dash as anti theft device.

with that, I'll give you the correct timing reference chart for it. that another big one. bump the timing to a solid 15-16.5* the engine will make more power and use less fuel doing it.
 
Just got home and checked for the numbers. Kinda hard to see 'cause the motor is in a tight spot between my Blazer and the garage door. I'll get the numbers when it's daylight with the garage door open, more likely this Friday.
 
Brian do you have a ETA on the start of the swap? I'm curious to see the progress so take tons of pics!
 
Babaganoosh said:
Brian do you have a ETA on the start of the swap? I'm curious to see the progress so take tons of pics!
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Oh, so you want a Cummins for your new truck? :eek1: :haha: J/K

Nah, not really. I didn't really do much except clean it down with WD40 and Eazy Off, then pulled the bellhousing and front cover since I pulled it out of the bed and set it in the garage.

I'll take pics but my crappy laptop won't let me load them up on here.


To be honest, I want the Cummins in, like right now! :D
 
DEMON44 said:
and the engine CPL number........its on the engine tag......just out of view of the pic you took :doah: and the number off the bosch pump tag. the last 3 digits of the center line. tag right behind the fuel shut off linkage near front of pump. and nifty thing they did with the fuel shutoff solenoid there. kind of bulky though, you can get rid of all that off the side of the pump if you fabricator type guys there can get a PTO cable from NAPA and make a bracket to have a mechanical fuel shut off...and hide it under the dash as anti theft device.

with that, I'll give you the correct timing reference chart for it. that another big one. bump the timing to a solid 15-16.5* the engine will make more power and use less fuel doing it.
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This engine tag?

r-DSCF2613.JPG


Looks like a CPL 1959 to me.

I was supposed to get mine today, but the guy with the motor was apparently too busy to call me back :rolleyes:
 
better get on him then!

every 0.1mm of plunger lift is 0.5* degree advance

15.0* = 6.2mm plunger lift
15.5* = 6.3mm
16.0* = 6.4mm
16.5* = 6.5mm
 
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Well, I finally got mine. It seems to run good with 75psi oil pressure and absolutely zero blowby. It too is a 1995 CPL 1959 jobbie with a neck-snapping 160HP :rolleyes:

So, what's with the timing chart you posted? Are you saying that increasing the timing will actually increase fueling as well?
 
no, it won't effect the rate of fueling, I shouldn't have put it in those words before.

There is no timing advance feature whatsoever in these pumps. so you advance your base timing slightly, you get a more complete burn of the fuel thats injected. mileage goes up. power goes up "slighty" because you extract more energy from each injection event.

OEM spec base timing is retarded because of emissions controls. you'll gain a couple MPG just by putting a few degrees advance in it. its more receptive to fuel mods & higher RPM with more timing in it too.
 
DEMON44 said:
no, it won't effect the rate of fueling, I shouldn't have put it in those words before.

There is no timing advance feature whatsoever in these pumps. so you advance your base timing slightly, you get a more complete burn of the fuel thats injected. mileage goes up. power goes up "slighty" because you extract more energy from each injection event.

OEM spec base timing is retarded because of emissions controls. you'll gain a couple MPG just by putting a few degrees advance in it. its more receptive to fuel mods & higher RPM with more timing in it too.
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Lack of advance is the only weakness I see in the P-7100 pump. I know why Bosch didn't bother; they were normally used in stationary apps where the engine runs at a fixed speed. It sure would make it quieter though....
 
exactly, the B series was designed in conjunction with Case for their tractors and equipment. If you see the data plate even has emissions specs on it............silly OEMs, we dont care about emissions ;)
 
I pulled the pan off my motor to check stuff out. It actually needs to be replaced because someone crushed it in with a forklift and 2 rod bolts cut grooves in the pan :doah: The bolts themselves looked perfect, so I doubt any harm was done. Also, the pan needs to be flipped to become rear sump, and I need to get the proper pickup from Cummins and install it.

Anyway, I have no idea how many miles/hours this engine has on it, but here's what the interior looked like:

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There's no caked on soot inside anywhere, and no carbonized oil on the underside of the pistons. I don't know if that is normally how these look with high miles, but to me it looks like a low mile/hour motor. Like I mentioned before, there was no blowby whatsoever, so I'm guessing she will be a good runner.

Also, until you have seen the internals of a Cummins first hand, you just can't truly appreciate how ridiculously overbuilt they are for the amount of power they are rated to make. It was definitely an eye-opener for me. :bow:
 
that was probably overhauled at one point and rods changed. factory stock rods don't have engraving marks like your WC 73683. probably why it looks so spick and span though, unless someone ran some ATF through the oil, or other detergent. I dunno. you got the pan off, pull a main and a rod cap. see what the bearings are. OEM or jobber, STD or oversided.....good a time as any to know what your working with.

See now why I'm never concerned about beating the tar out of my engines....size does matter :haha:
 
DEMON44 said:
that was probably overhauled at one point and rods changed. factory stock rods don't have engraving marks like your WC 73683. probably why it looks so spick and span though, unless someone ran some ATF through the oil, or other detergent. I dunno. you got the pan off, pull a main and a rod cap. see what the bearings are. OEM or jobber, STD or oversided.....good a time as any to know what your working with.
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Do Cummins rod and main bolts need to be replaced when you remove them? Also, what were the OEM bearings?
 
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