CK5
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Looking to buy 1974 K5
- Thread starter GoAWOL
- Start date
yeah, I remember how they looked from your thread. Right now I'm just hoping they aren't too bad...I'll let you know how it turns out.
I took your advice and hunted down the biggest air compressor I could find...I think I did pretty well. The air DA I bought from HF bogs down when I apply pressure...any idea why?
There's no question that the repops are not as thick...I don't plan on using my Blazer's bed to haul anying...I'm never going to put lumber and building supplies in there...so I am not worried about the mil or two thinner than oem...
Now that I have mine on, I am glad they are on...they look fine...there is just a whole lot of messaging to get them to fit right...but I am glad I got the chance to clean and treat my B-Pillars and the bed where the quarters meet it....
I changed mine out and my quarters were nothing close to what yours are...a lot of folks had strong opinions on making the choice to do that...when I said that I would do everything possible to prevent ever changing the quarters out, I had no idea they looked like that...either way...that's a bunch of hours
They are a CFM hog....I never used mine and bought the Campbel Hausfied electric model...those HF DA's probably wouldn't even work well on Ryoken's Quincy...
Makes sense...seems Harbor Freight is China's way of getting rid of their crap metal
I think I'll strip the panels down and see what is what...if it's looking really bad or been patched already I'll seriously consider full replacement
That DA is the one tool from HF I just couldn't get to work...it had no power...the inline sander does pretty good...although it keeps the compressor chugging.
For sanding off paint like that, the electric DA and 40 or 60 grit will make quick work of it. Just don't sand the bare metal with 40 for very long or you'll have a lot of sanding to do to get the deep scratches out...
That's what made me do it...when I stripped down the passenger side and saw how "frankenstein" it already was and hammered and dented and beat up and rust on the inside I said to heck with it...
And my rule was, "if I change one, I am changing both"...that was so they would match on the inside....but, now that I think about it...I probably could have got by with leaving the driver's side QP alone...and with bedside covers on, you would have never seen the slight difference in the QP's
Been mostly sticking to 80 grit and occassionally using 60 on the really tough stuff.
I think I found some extended wheel arch replacements...linky
I'll throw this out there...if you decide to go for new quarters, look for free shipping...it will save you hundreds...
LMC gives free shipping with orders $1000 or over...so I ordered a lot at once...I got the QP's, exhaust manifolds and something else..I can't remember...but I saved the $400 shipping it would have cost if I ordered them seperately...
LMC gives free shipping with orders $1000 or over...so I ordered a lot at once...I got the QP's, exhaust manifolds and something else..I can't remember...but I saved the $400 shipping it would have cost if I ordered them seperately...
Thanks Chief...appreciate the feedback and advice. I'll let you know how it goes..
Well dang! Looks like it goes all the way to the pinch weld...I've never seen those before...if I had seen those....
If the rest of the panels are somewhat solid, I think you found the thing...and $44 is not bad at all
Well dang! Looks like it goes all the way to the pinch weld...I've never seen those before...if I had seen those....
If the rest of the panels are somewhat solid, I think you found the thing...and $44 is not bad at all
Yeah, for that price I can give it a shot...long as shipping is not too bad. I'll be sure to record my progress.
Odd, I have several severely rusted Blazers up here, and not a one has rust on the bed rails.
Martin
You sure that ring gear in the pic isnt 4.10's? IIRC 45 ring teeth and 11 pinion comes out to 4.09?
Check your bedsides for integrity at the areas that you will be welding with patch panels. If the metal is porous it makes welding difficult and blow out in weak spots. How do they look in the door jam area up underneath towards the front of the quarter panel where the mount?
I replaced both my rear quarters including door jams from an 81, that was a treat making them mount at the front section due to being different. Wouldn't go that route again but that was 15 years ago and I had more spunk then.
I replaced both my rear quarters including door jams from an 81, that was a treat making them mount at the front section due to being different. Wouldn't go that route again but that was 15 years ago and I had more spunk then.
Yes, but that was probably just a generic pic off of the internet that Chief Brody posted, not the actual parts in the truck.
gotcha.
blazerz
badnews
my dana 44 gears were 409 from the factory and the 14 bolt had 411....it came that way....gears are close enough that it won't hurt anything....and thats with a 205 transfercase......
Did a bunch of sanding today and everything besides the trouble areas in the pics looks good so far. Just looking at what it takes to replace entire bedsides is causing me to lean towards panel repair. As soon as I get them both stripped of paint and all surprises revealed, I hope to get a better idea.
