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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
So ... Big question, and a debate I've had in my head. Maybe I'm overthinking it even .... But.?

I have my cooler mounted vertical like this.
It's a Derale 33605 21 row plate and fin.IMG_20260102_061542383_MP.jpg
 
Damnit... Wrong button.... Anyway...

Screenshot_20260102-062200.png

In my head I keep thinking the top section will end up a big pocket of air, and the fluid will shoot sideways leaving unused space due to a compressed air pocket like this.IMG_20260102_061542383_MP~2.jpg

But my mechanical part of my brain says that the pressure coming in would be so great that it'll shoot up the one side filling it instantly, pushing out all air. Like this.IMG_20260102_061542383_MP~4.jpg

Yet basically all factory coolers are mounted with the inlet and outlets one above the other... And the only reason I can think of for that is air evacuation. :dunno:

I'm now in a position to change mine, but I'm not sure it's needed. My trans always stayed cool , and the only time I seen it approach 200 was sitting in traffic on a semi hot day after putting the original old azz transmission back in.
Doesn't help that my cooler is 2"-2.5" away from my radiator, and there's no shroud around it to make sure the fan pulls air through. Which that, part I do plan to change this go round.
 
Just didn't like the few times it got warm. :dunno:

Not sure why it's bugged me.
It really didn't come to mind until I started to mount the oil cooler. And I've been thinking about it ever since lol.

It'll go back in the old way for now most likely. But I'll add a shroud between the rad and cooler. See if that changes anything.
 
Your thought process is correct, ideally you would want the outlet toward the top.

It can work fine the other way. I did mount mine that way simply because it wouldn't fit the other way. But I don't know how much air gets trapped, so you don't know how much cooling capacity you are sacrificing.
 
I may see if I can get it sideways yet.
It did seem to work ok, but the thoughts always bugged me.

I really think the pressure should be high enough to force straight up the one side and make all the air leave, but :dunno:
 
I may see if I can get it sideways yet.
It did seem to work ok, but the thoughts always bugged me.

I really think the pressure should be high enough to force straight up the one side and make all the air leave, but :dunno:

Too many variables to know if it can force all the air down and out the others side though, it would take quite a bit of flow.
 
Ideally you mount it with the ports on the side, and the outlet being the top port. That should self purge.
 
That's the reason I asked for it to be built that way lol.
It'll either get a bottle or screws at some point most likely.
Probably not both lol.
 
I have to wait until middle to late 2027 if I want to do that. So that's why I moved on to body stuff lol.
Trying to catch that bug in the hopes that looks will over shadow the go fast bug for a bit :thumb:
 
GM truck mounted plate coolers have the ports at the bottom. I went through this whole process when building the Iron Maiden.

IMG_0115.jpeg
 
I was telling my buddy last night that I was probably going to mount it the same way again, since it did stay cool 99% of the time.
I'll just make a shroud to cover the big azz gap between the cooler and radiator so that at a stop the fan can still pull air through it.
Plan to mount the oil cooler finally too since I have to get into the oil lines anyway.

For now I guess I'm going to stay using the evil energy hose, since I have a full roll of it still.
Also found I have a mix of some fragola and EE fittings.
All my oil lines are easy to get to later, and money is kind of a problem this go round. Still not back up to snuff after the summer injury BS, physically and financially.
Buying a gallon of primer and the new trans cooler hit hard enough as it is lol.

Paying for the transmission, the truck I traded for the monza my wife got, and my house payment in a 3 day span wiped us clean for a while.

Good thing I have a CHIT ton of sand paper and masking tape stock piled up for the body work stuff :waytogo:
I know what I'll be confined to working on for the next couple months.
 
I'm also at the mercy of LMC now.
Can't move forward on reassembly until they send me the new antenna base.
They acknowledged the fact that I ordered it.... But have told me nothing about when I may get it :doah:

So now I wait for them, since I need it to get the fender back on.

Got some primer and fast hardener + reducer on the way too.
Getting closer lol.
 
Yeah, that needs to be cut out. The question is how much to cut.
 
Looks like it stops not far above that.
My patch panel goes up over the dip in the body line, so I should have enough.

Other side isn't as bad rust wise, but has dents at the bottom back, near the bumper.
I think that side is getting small patched and bondo doctored after some dent pulling.
This side is getting replaced.

When I first bought panels, they said they fit a suburban... Got them and they're tahoe size.
Just too short for a whole repair, but should work for pieces to do a small patch.
I have the right panels now too, so I'm good there.

Worst one is the rear driver's door. I may just replace that door.

Dents not as deep as it looks by this pic. But it's in the crash bar, so probably hard to straighten out enough for light filler to help. Screenshot_20260105-071513.png
 
This vid makes me itchy....
Now I wanna boost SO bad lol.
And, contrary to what GM says, they put 10 pounds of boost on 11:1 compression with pump gas, and made it work safely.
I'd be cool with the same setup, but left at 6-7 psi.
Basically because I REALLY don't want to hurt this engine, and the difference between 800hp and 900 isn't worth pushing my luck lol.

 
Boost is awesome but boost is expensive, we could give it a 100 shot on pump gas for pretty cheap with everything bone stock.
 
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