CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Here is the video of me launching the truck with a little brake. If I launch on the converter it’s a bit more wheel speed.
And you can see a 4l60e shift at 5800 to 3rd hehe
And you can see a 4l60e shift at 5800 to 3rd hehe
Were you not floored the whole time on purpose? You can also tell you are not getting 100% full throttle, even your full throttle varies a little, which shows its not against the stop.
Is your knock retard on? How is it setup? I turn that off on NA performance vehicles.
I would move your WOT A/F ratio target to 13, the LS usually will likely like that better and still pretty safe.
What is your WOT shift points set at? It's the top right button in your transmission window.
For some reason your 28 WOT timing didn't seem to take, it is showing 26.2 or something. Did you "smooth" it before you changed it? You may need to reset that one. It should read 28 all along the top 3 rows above 2500 RPM or so, it doesn't.
Other than that I wouldn't be making a bunch of changes right now, everything is close enough to run fine thus far. I would turn off the knock sensors for now and see how it runs and let it learn for a bit. I would also fix the cable so you are getting full throttle every time, whether you have to bend the pedal arm, or whatever you got to do.
What is your cam? I think I remember you saying your cam in a different cam thread somewhere, is that the one? Trying to see it so I can assess how important a converter change is.
I also think you should do a video of it accelerating so we can hear the engine.
I notice Holley's dash bezels don't have the little PRNDL indicator window like the factory. It does display the gear indicator in the prodash correct?
Because it has the info to do that from the PSM in the trans, yet I don't see that option on my 5 year old V4 dash. Might have to update the software. I am also likely putting that same setup in my blazer when I do that project, I already have the bezel, I am installing a 12" prodash for a friend but he won't have the GM OD electronic trans so I can't test that function there. Just planning ahead for a over the winter blazer project most likely.
Yes sir it does, I just don’t have it on.
It's possible I wasn't pushing it all the way to the floor.
Felt like it, but I'm not sure. I've noticed I do that a lot actually.
I did hit smooth after setting the 28... Oops. Didn't think it would change the top or bottom points. Figured it would just smooth the curve between them.
Not sure on the WOT shift points. I thought setting the shift points as I did at 100% TPS was the same thing
Felt like it, but I'm not sure. I've noticed I do that a lot actually.
I did hit smooth after setting the 28... Oops. Didn't think it would change the top or bottom points. Figured it would just smooth the curve between them.
Not sure on the WOT shift points. I thought setting the shift points as I did at 100% TPS was the same thing
Also when I did the burny try, I was on my way to work. Pulled over, let a couple cars pass, seen an opening, jumped in the road and stopped with cars coming up behind me, and mashed it quick. Then let off right away and turned into work lol.
So not a very controlled setting.
Where my seat is set, and the stiffness of the throttle spring, it's tough to keep it exactly on the floor.
Here is a vid I posted on here a couple weeks ago. Not exact current settings, but close.
So not a very controlled setting.
Where my seat is set, and the stiffness of the throttle spring, it's tough to keep it exactly on the floor.
Here is a vid I posted on here a couple weeks ago. Not exact current settings, but close.
Just got the tune file, are you running 1 or 2 knock sensors?
Think I should have gone up a step or 2 with the cam.
But I was thinking DD/ travel truck when I close. I just assumed that being a bigger cam than a stock L92 it would do burnouts when I wanted too lol
But I was thinking DD/ travel truck when I close. I just assumed that being a bigger cam than a stock L92 it would do burnouts when I wanted too lol
2 knock sensors.
So you got a 6.0 with a smallish cam and a stock converter and it does 0 - 60 in what seems just under 7 seconds in a heavy burb. I don't know if you are that far off really. Also, with that cam, you don't really need a different converter, it could help your acceleration a little, but its not really necessary with that cam.
Also, the WOT shift depends on the WOT RPM setting and the chart I believe. Here is what Holley says about it...
Also, the WOT shift depends on the WOT RPM setting and the chart I believe. Here is what Holley says about it...
I also just saw that Summit cam you have is only advanced 1 degree from straight up, not really want you want, especially for torque from a dead launch from zero at low RPM.
You could change that with a multi keyway timing set or a different cam. But since it's in and running I would just use it.
Its also a "high lift" version, with stock heads. I don't normally recommend that without porting or something, it isn't bad, its just not much gain for the extra valve and spring motion unless the heads can flow more at that lift. So you are wasting energy, friction, and extra wear on the valvetrain without much to show for it.
You could change that with a multi keyway timing set or a different cam. But since it's in and running I would just use it.
Its also a "high lift" version, with stock heads. I don't normally recommend that without porting or something, it isn't bad, its just not much gain for the extra valve and spring motion unless the heads can flow more at that lift. So you are wasting energy, friction, and extra wear on the valvetrain without much to show for it.
It's a 6.0 block, but bored .065" , and compression bumped to around 9.8.
I seen most of the cars I watched on YT, with stock heads and all that were running cams with .600+ lift. I assumed that the .550 version would be alright.
First time at building a non stock engine on my own lol.
For the shift points, I didn't really catch that WOT tab, so I went to grimmjeepers and figured out what speed would put me at or close to 5100-5200 in each gear. Then used that speed as my WOT shift point on the graph.
I'll look at that WOT tab and see what it's at there
I seen most of the cars I watched on YT, with stock heads and all that were running cams with .600+ lift. I assumed that the .550 version would be alright.
First time at building a non stock engine on my own lol.
For the shift points, I didn't really catch that WOT tab, so I went to grimmjeepers and figured out what speed would put me at or close to 5100-5200 in each gear. Then used that speed as my WOT shift point on the graph.
I'll look at that WOT tab and see what it's at there
