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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
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This was the vid that got me started looking into the torque management.


I'm debating playing with the trans settings some, since it will get a rebuild later this year/early next, anyway. If I hurt it it won't be as big a deal as later lol.

I've heard not to let the 4l80 shift higher than 5200. I think it'll be fine up there if I leave the current TM settings alone.
Mines shifting at 5400-5600 it looked like at WOT.
I used grim jeeper to see what speed I needed in each gear to get 5100-5200 and then used that speed as my shift point at 95%+ throttle position.
Then blended them down in a smooth arc to mate up with the Holley's base settings at around 35% and down.
 
It has dawned on me that running an auto with this LS your losing a whole bunch of the engines real power range since it's shifting at 5k ish.
There's 1500 or so (give or take) rpm of more power, totally unusable.
 
Not sure if it's the new PS pump vs 400,000 mile components, or pumps from 05 have more pressure, or...?

Since I got the engine in and running I've lost the seals in the booster, and both pressure hoses.

All new now though lol.
 
I have the timing set at 15 at idle. And did the smooth thing on just the timing.

It did make an improvement from stop signs, but it's still not what I'd expect. Especially since it's a mild cam.

I've heard the off idle with these is all in the tuning, but I can't find any real info on WHAT exactly to play with for off idle. Everything on the web is about pinned 6k+ gains.

Even a Dyno tune would be above 2500 probably.
Need someone who knows tuning to do a live tune driving around or something :dunno:

Still happy for the most part.
I'm just waiting for the right passing opportunity on my way to work. Couple long straight stretches and usually a bunch of people doing 50 lol.
 
Can you do a data log and post it? I’m no expert but I have seen a few YouTube videos. Lol
 
Just a driving stop sign to stop sign, then a couple dead stop pulls? Or just some dead stop pulls? Or how.
I just figured out the data log thing, and I have a couple just idling and kind of reving it lightly that I did when trying to figure out out.

Biggest thing that worries me, and maybe I shouldn't be, is when I crest a hill, and coast down the back side, my AFR will go to like 15.5-16 and stay there most of the way down sometimes.
I understand it will do it for a second when I'm hammering on it and let off fast.
But I've seen it hold there for 5-8 seconds or more a couple times. Maybe it's normal, but it's the first time I've ever been able to watch AFR lol.
 
Normal driving around and when you feel it should have more power. Posting up the tune file also would be helpfull, would like to see what it is compared to mine. We have different cams, but most of it should be similar as in bolt on parts.
 
I wouldn't worry about a little lean on coast, it's not low load, its no load, or maybe reverse load if there is engine braking.

Are you getting full throttle? Meaning is the throttle blade all the way open when you floor the gas pedal?

Make sure everything is set correctly in parameters as far as injector size, etc.

Also, I woul change the WOT timing to 28, it will most likely make more power there and is still pretty safe for an LS at WOT.
 
As far as torque management, turn it off, and turn the pressure firmer on the trans a little. The factory has to make the shifts smooth to ease the masses, then in order to make a smooth shift without too much slipping or harshness they dial the power back a little. For performance use, you want a firmer shift to avoid slipping, and full power.
 
Yeah the throttle blades appear to be opening all the way, if not all the way it's 99.5%.
I'll change that WOT timing today. It's at 26 right now I believe.

I've double checked the engine Parameters a few times. All correct there.
I'm going to try data logging a little today on the way to work. Charging the laptop now actually.

For torque management, I'm kind of ok with it dipping power at shift the way it is at the moment. I may adjust it's effect down slightly, like shorten the time and lessen the amount of power it drops some.

I did bump pressure slightly already, and changed some shift points at higher TPS numbers.
The terminator does line pressure in %. Zero being full, and base tune had it at like 31-32% idle and normal driving.
I moved it to 28-29 I think is all.
Pressure goes to full when at full throttle.
Then i set my 100% throttle shift points for whatever speed 5100 rpm is in each gear. (Used grimmjeepers to calculate that).
And I manually smoothed out the shift point curve to meet that number through the TPS/shift point graph.
 
I did a couple data logs, and changed my global a little. Forgot to save a copy of how it was. :doah:

I'll try and post them tomorrow when I get home because my laptop has no net at work.
 
Driving around and most normal use I'm happy. Runs and drives good, decent power, etc.
It's just the fact that any stock Silverado can spin a tire even with less rear gear, and this won't even squeak one on wet pavement. :dunno:
 
My 08 Yukon with the 6.2 did, my 05 CC w/5.3 would, my kids 04 burb w/5.3 will at least break free for a second.
And my 05(?) Extended cab w/4.8 would on wet pavement.
I just kind of assumed a mildly beefed one would do it easy. This has got to have more power than all but maybe the Yukon. :dunno: and that's only because this has about .3 less compression and cathedral ports.

I was reluctant to do too deep on gears when I get to them. But I plan on buying a newer truck I think, and that will curb the need for this to pull travel/DD duty too.
So This can become race truck like I want lol. I'll get it to do burnouts and pull hard off the line yet :waytogo:
 
Maybe I needed to try harder, but I was impressed with how much power it did have for a stock engine.
 
The 08 Denali I had was my basis for boring this to 6.2 lol.
Essentially I was trying to copy that engine, but make it run on 87 if needed and possibly pull the torque curve down the rpm scale a tad.

And not sure if you did, but you have to shut off traction control and stability control. Lol

Right now I'm looking at 15-19 CCSB's with the 6.2/8spd combo and max trailering package.
That'll take over DD and replace the dually. Kind of a hard combo to find actually it seems.
 
The 6.2L in my '12 crew cab just tuned with headers and the stock tires, couldn't drive in the rain without blowing the rear tires off at every red light. Could easily do burnouts through 3rd gear. Now with larger all terrains it's manageable in the rain but can still do good burn outs when I want to.
 
shady said:
The 08 Denali I had was my basis for boring this to 6.2 lol.
Essentially I was trying to copy that engine, but make it run on 87 if needed and possibly pull the torque curve down the rpm scale a tad.

And not sure if you did, but you have to shut off traction control and stability control. Lol

Right now I'm looking at 15-19 CCSB's with the 6.2/8spd combo and max trailering package.
That'll take over DD and replace the dually. Kind of a hard combo to find actually it seems.
Click to expand...
I drive that exact combo as a daily, 2016, look for "NHT" in the RPO codes, that's the code for the max trailer package that moves it from about 9,000 lbs to about 12,000 lbs. Different rear springs and shocks, slightly larger ring gear, different ratio, and added cooling capacity. It pulls quite well, gets better mileage than my 6 cylinder trailblazer did, and is very roomy in the back.
 
I've been searching on em for a while now. I've only found like 4 with that combo, nht, and less than 100k on the od.
I'll have one yet though.
 
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