CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Not happy with the rear tire diameter.
Really should have done the other tires/rims for the rear.
Tires set about 2" back from the outer lip also.
So I'm going to return the front tires I bought, and the rims that were to go with them.
And get the bigger rears, with the 1"less backspace wheels for them.
Move these to the front.
Going from 275/45/20 to 285/50/20
The lowering amount in the rear won't be known for sure until the stereo is done, and other rear tires are on. Maybe some spring settling.
Front springs will be here tomorrow.
Lots of work to do there .
Lot of OT to cover the next 2 weeks though too. So probably be a bit.
Really should have done the other tires/rims for the rear.
Tires set about 2" back from the outer lip also.
So I'm going to return the front tires I bought, and the rims that were to go with them.
And get the bigger rears, with the 1"less backspace wheels for them.
Move these to the front.
Going from 275/45/20 to 285/50/20
The lowering amount in the rear won't be known for sure until the stereo is done, and other rear tires are on. Maybe some spring settling.
Front springs will be here tomorrow.
Lots of work to do there .
Lot of OT to cover the next 2 weeks though too. So probably be a bit.
I ordered some 285/50s for the rear. Should help with the look there. These will move up front.
Front coils are here. So now I have all the parts I can currently think of to do the front end.
I'm thinking mid next week it'll be lowered and ready for the back tires.
No idea when they're coming though.
I didn't spend time to get pics, but I found an issue with the rear axle. When the U-bolt plates came off they were full of crap, which ate my U-Bolts. Well it also ate my axle tube pretty hard.
Like missing half it's thickness in places I'd guess.
I have an axle I took out of a 96 4x burb that I think I'm going to build up, regear, and swap in. It'll make it easier to regear anyway. I hope they're the same width.
The body panels I bought said for a burb, but they're about 4" short, so I guess I'm cutting pieces out to patch in
.
I want to at least start sanding and priming the smaller areas as soon as the suspension is done. Then as weather permits, move it outside for panel cutting/welding.
The back door I should have just replaced when I had one, but I didn't want it looking like a calico until paint time.
My dumb-ass scrapped the door instead of saving it. Hope I find another good one lol.
Beer, purge mode, and brain farts are a bad combination lol.
Front coils are here. So now I have all the parts I can currently think of to do the front end.
I'm thinking mid next week it'll be lowered and ready for the back tires.
No idea when they're coming though.
I didn't spend time to get pics, but I found an issue with the rear axle. When the U-bolt plates came off they were full of crap, which ate my U-Bolts. Well it also ate my axle tube pretty hard.
Like missing half it's thickness in places I'd guess.
I have an axle I took out of a 96 4x burb that I think I'm going to build up, regear, and swap in. It'll make it easier to regear anyway. I hope they're the same width.
The body panels I bought said for a burb, but they're about 4" short, so I guess I'm cutting pieces out to patch in
.I want to at least start sanding and priming the smaller areas as soon as the suspension is done. Then as weather permits, move it outside for panel cutting/welding.
The back door I should have just replaced when I had one, but I didn't want it looking like a calico until paint time.
My dumb-ass scrapped the door instead of saving it. Hope I find another good one lol.
Beer, purge mode, and brain farts are a bad combination lol.
Got the bigger rear tires. Definitely needs to come down farther in the back.
But they fit the opening a lot better than the other ones.
The rear will sit a touch lower just by getting it off the jack stands.
I'll remove the overloads. That'll get me another 1". Then probably have to build an antiwrap bar to keep the wheel hop down.
If I ever get it to do better burnouts anyway lol. Set of 4.56's and a real posi should help.
But they fit the opening a lot better than the other ones.
The rear will sit a touch lower just by getting it off the jack stands.
I'll remove the overloads. That'll get me another 1". Then probably have to build an antiwrap bar to keep the wheel hop down.
If I ever get it to do better burnouts anyway lol. Set of 4.56's and a real posi should help.
Going to need to order tires again when the D60 goes under.
There was a short time, when I had a 96 7.4 k2500 burb with a rougher body sitting here that made me think real hard lol.
I was debating between swap bodies, lower the 4x, and do an AWD race burb.
Or build that burb out with an SAS kit, sell my blue truck, and have 2 tricked out nearly identically painted burbs.
But then I'd have no square and 2 gmt400s...... That wouldn't have worked for me.
Tell you the truth, I wish this was a square. But I bought it with what was left of my dad's life insurance, expecting a reliable, great on fuel truck. And it turned out to suck for mpg and always breaking down.
I started pouring money and time into it kind of sentimentally before it dawned on me that I should have sold it and got a square.
Now it's on, and I'm just gonna deal with it being a gmt400 lol.
I was debating between swap bodies, lower the 4x, and do an AWD race burb.
Or build that burb out with an SAS kit, sell my blue truck, and have 2 tricked out nearly identically painted burbs.
But then I'd have no square and 2 gmt400s...... That wouldn't have worked for me.
Tell you the truth, I wish this was a square. But I bought it with what was left of my dad's life insurance, expecting a reliable, great on fuel truck. And it turned out to suck for mpg and always breaking down.
I started pouring money and time into it kind of sentimentally before it dawned on me that I should have sold it and got a square.
Now it's on, and I'm just gonna deal with it being a gmt400 lol.
Get a full side shot, so we can see rake or not.
I'm going to take the overload out in the rear. And in front either get Stock height springs or leave it and roll the fenders.
Still have to set all the stereo stuff in there and see where it sits.
What I got was stock springs for the rear, that were 1" thinner, with a 700# lower rating. And 2" lowering shackles.
Forgot the arch was probably the same
Front is 3" spindles with supposedly -1" coil springs. Seems more like -2" coils though.
Adding the weight of a big block could cause some issues the way it is.
So I'm going to have to address that in some way.
Still have to set all the stereo stuff in there and see where it sits.
What I got was stock springs for the rear, that were 1" thinner, with a 700# lower rating. And 2" lowering shackles.
Forgot the arch was probably the same
Front is 3" spindles with supposedly -1" coil springs. Seems more like -2" coils though.
Adding the weight of a big block could cause some issues the way it is.
So I'm going to have to address that in some way.
I’d add all the weight and then drive it and see where it settles.
Adding coil over shocks will net you an extra inch.I'm going to take the overload out in the rear. And in front either get Stock height springs or leave it and roll the fenders.
Still have to set all the stereo stuff in there and see where it sits.
What I got was stock springs for the rear, that were 1" thinner, with a 700# lower rating. And 2" lowering shackles.
Forgot the arch was probably the same
Front is 3" spindles with supposedly -1" coil springs. Seems more like -2" coils though.
Adding the weight of a big block could cause some issues the way it is.
So I'm going to have to address that in some way.
View attachment 448794
I did that on my diesel suburban to prop it up after the springs sagged from sitting 12 years loaded with crap
I'm going to try. I have to roll the front fenders or something first though. I think the front tires would eat fender just getting out of my shop drive lol
I don't think that's an option on this. The shocks go up through the A arm and through the spring. No room to get the helper spring ones in there.
I don't know what they consider "stock height" for springs. Mine were the heaviest duty ones they made for these.
Has the 8500# gvwr, and it originally had the diesel. When I put the LS in the front rose a little.
I can try stock height springs for a SB burb in a few hrs for $150.
I do actually like the look of the front though. Only issue with it really is I like the look of only a mild tire to fender gap difference front to back. And I can't go much lower in the back, without bridge notching the frame, and building pockets in the rear floor for them to go up into.
Taking the overload out and adding the stereo weight will already have me removing the stock bump stop.
