Put the bars back on.
CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
oof.. lol
I got all the bolts except 3 out.
I'm thinking I'll put all of em back in, cut them flush, tack weld the bolt to the nutsert, sealing the threads.
Then grind em flat to the sert, prime and paint over it all.
I'm thinking I'll put all of em back in, cut them flush, tack weld the bolt to the nutsert, sealing the threads.
Then grind em flat to the sert, prime and paint over it all.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
So because it's a toy that won't see bad weather allows you do shit work?
No excuse for a guy like you with skills and abilities to do hack work.
Why are you being lazy about it? This forum has watched you work harder for less.
It's 16 small bolt holes. Drill out the nutserts and weld in a patch. Do it right.
No excuse for a guy like you with skills and abilities to do hack work.
Why are you being lazy about it? This forum has watched you work harder for less.
It's 16 small bolt holes. Drill out the nutserts and weld in a patch. Do it right.
Not sure how to weld on a patch. Maybe try and stitch the hole across...?
Some of them are blind holes that you can't get to the back side of. Which was why I haven't taken it off.
If I fill the holes, and leave just the ring of the nut serts showing, I can prime over them with high build, then block the whole area until they're invisible. No water would get in them. The paint and primer would seal it. And it's not really shit work that way.
That's what I meant.
Some of them are blind holes that you can't get to the back side of. Which was why I haven't taken it off.
If I fill the holes, and leave just the ring of the nut serts showing, I can prime over them with high build, then block the whole area until they're invisible. No water would get in them. The paint and primer would seal it. And it's not really shit work that way.
That's what I meant.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
There are hole fill kits you can buy.
www.speedwaymotors.com
Or salvage some sheet metal from another piece of the car. Like those rusty fenders. Or a junk car like a buick regal that's laying around.
Or just buy some tin from farm and fleet.
Or steal it from work.
Use a hole saw with no center bit. To cut a plug.
Or weld in some washers with a center hole you can fill.
Literally like a million ways to do it
Or just bondo the fuc k out of it and not care I guess.
I don't know how good you are welding thin stuff so it's all relative.
How big are those holes? My assumption is they are small enough to just build weld metal by jumping around . Just be careful with you heat. You don't want a oil can roof.
Also, why would you need to get to the backside?
Smooth Firewall and Floor Hole Fill Kit, 14 Gauge Sheet Metal
These 14-gauge welding discs are designed to fill the holes left over from shaving body trim, smoothing firewalls, or even that little rust spot in a body panel. This 29-piece kit includes sheet metal patches in several conventional hole sizes. The patch itself is slightly undersized to allow it...
Or salvage some sheet metal from another piece of the car. Like those rusty fenders. Or a junk car like a buick regal that's laying around.
Or just buy some tin from farm and fleet.
Or steal it from work.
Use a hole saw with no center bit. To cut a plug.
Or weld in some washers with a center hole you can fill.
Literally like a million ways to do it
Or just bondo the fuc k out of it and not care I guess.
I don't know how good you are welding thin stuff so it's all relative.
How big are those holes? My assumption is they are small enough to just build weld metal by jumping around . Just be careful with you heat. You don't want a oil can roof.
Also, why would you need to get to the backside?
The holes are about 5/16. If I could get the nut serts out. I don't want them rattling around in my roof. So they have to come out if I'm smoothing the holes.
Usually with sheet metal I like to put a small piece on the backside, tack around the hole, fill the center, then sand smooth.
Or hold a brass block behind it, and just fill the hole.
I thought about just trying to weld the serts in, then grind them smooth, but that won't work. Eventually to get smooth I'd take the perimeter weld off and it would fall in anyway. I'd rather smooth it with high build primer, not Bondo, then let them rattle around in the roof.
And the regals been gone lol.
Usually with sheet metal I like to put a small piece on the backside, tack around the hole, fill the center, then sand smooth.
Or hold a brass block behind it, and just fill the hole.
I thought about just trying to weld the serts in, then grind them smooth, but that won't work. Eventually to get smooth I'd take the perimeter weld off and it would fall in anyway. I'd rather smooth it with high build primer, not Bondo, then let them rattle around in the roof.
And the regals been gone lol.
Go hillbilly and just cover a bolt in silicone and run it into the hole.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
You don't have a extendable magnet?
I could get some that way maybe. Still not sure how well I can fill 5/16 holes. Been brain storming ideas. The ones above the B pillar are still an issue. Those can't be reached at all. And like said, I can't leave em in there. Extended magnets not gonna get through the hole to get them.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
How do you know? Have you tried it?
Drill the hole out slightly bigger then plug with a sheetmetal plug.
The larger hole allows you to fish out the nutsert.
I have given you more then enough options, but your just arguing to argue.
Drill the hole out slightly bigger then plug with a sheetmetal plug.
The larger hole allows you to fish out the nutsert.
I have given you more then enough options, but your just arguing to argue.
It seems personal at this point.
Not arguing to argue. Just don't think it's that big of a deal to leave em lol. I see no reason to go through that much BS. It's always been gonna be a 20 footer. And even at 5' 90% of people won't notice the serts being there. It doesn't hurt anything to leave them. It's not going to promote rust, barely visible, etc. I see no point in going through that much, for something that doesn't matter. I'd rather spend the time doing body work that matters, like the fenders and chit is all.
If they were open holes that were gonna let water in, or cause rust issues, it'd be a different story. Then it'd be worth it.
If they were open holes that were gonna let water in, or cause rust issues, it'd be a different story. Then it'd be worth it.
The thing still has rust holes and dents and you're hung up on whether or not there are attachment points on the roof? I mean, it was your idea:
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Got it washed and aligned. Full tank of gas brought the rear down even more.
The driveway pic would be a pretty nice pic of it, if it wasn't for the ratty hood lol.
Also found that my bubble spot on the passenger front fender is more like a RUST HOLE, than a small bubble spot
.
Then I let my wife drive it, so that she has emergency wheels while hers is getting repaired. That is kinda scary lol.
I got compliments on it 3 times between my shop and the alignment shop
The driveway pic would be a pretty nice pic of it, if it wasn't for the ratty hood lol.
Also found that my bubble spot on the passenger front fender is more like a RUST HOLE, than a small bubble spot
.Then I let my wife drive it, so that she has emergency wheels while hers is getting repaired. That is kinda scary lol.
I got compliments on it 3 times between my shop and the alignment shop
That front end seems a bit higher. Looks good.
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