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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
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The lifters, I heard the short travel ones kind of need a solid roller profile since they're basically a solid at high RPM. So I figured they're out.
Just didn't know, is there's a howards or omp or something that's known to be ok a little higher:dunno:
I'd like to move the limiter up to 7k .
Most people have good luck with the LS7 lifters, out to even 7200+
The LS7 s and even just stock ones are what Richard holdner makes all the 7000 rpm dyno pulls with. But I wasn't sure how many times that works on stock lol
As for summits stuff, I know like Circle D makes their converters, and i heard comp makes their cams. Not sure about the cams one:dunno:
So I'd guess they're decent, Ish.
 
The roller tip is actually over rated by nearly everything I seen.:dunno:
I watched high speed footage of them where at high RPM they just slid back and forth on the valve anyway. And seen tests where the extra tip weight caused float sooner than stock.
These have a tip design that works better than stock as far as contact at higher lifts and stuff. Plus stronger design.
Pretty much everywhere said the fulcrum matters most. These actually direct oil through the bearings too. (Gravity fed) .
For the price I figured I couldn't go wrong.
 
The roller tip is more to prevent wear and friction than increase RPM. It reduces the side force on the valve stem, which prolongs guide and valve stem life. However, with stock steel LS guides, guide life really isn't a problem. And with hydraulic cams and no lash, the valve stem isn't much of an issue either. Now with older stuff, softer guides, or splayed valves these things are more important.

If you already replaced the lifters with LS7 lifters and they are working fine, I would just use them, there really isn't much point to spinning it to 7k unless you with with an even bigger cam and heads, but I don't recommend that in a suburban, even with gearing the weight just isn't a high RPM setup.

It sounds like you already thought through your exhaust with what you already have, I was just throwing options out there.
 
Also, to add to above, the short travel lifters don't need a solid profile, they still have a short travel hydraulic plunger, however the preload is a lot more critical, so you may need an adjustable rocker. It's possible to do it without, but some of the really short travel lifters only have .020" of travel or less and the pushrods are usually available in .025" - .050 increments, so it's not guaranteed. I would stick with your current lifters you already bought.
 
Yeah I read the preload on the comp pro magnum is like .002-.004".
 
I think the current plan, plus filing the rings a little better will leave me open enough for big power gains later if I do decide to Add a power adder.

There are cams and such that would be better for some choices, but in the end it'll still add lots of power to what Ill have and work ok.

Like holdner always says, every cams a turbo cam lol.
And he's run 1000+ HP with ported 317's, so they'll be fine. I'll never go that far. I should be wide open later if I feel the need.
More likely to beef up the olds if this isn't enough though. It'd take a lot less BS to make it roast the tires than this big biatch lol.
 
With the weight of the burb you may be more likely to wrap the springs and break a u-joint than roast the tires, unless the pavement is wet or dusty of course.
 
I have plans that will sort of keep that from happening.:whistle: unfortunately they won't be started until like next Christmas... So I have a sketchy period in there lol. So far, with all of the decent burnouts I HAVE gotten, it has never even hinted at wheel hop, and seems to do ok once they spin. It's getting em to break that's been the issue.

I am however worried about the humongous fiber sleeved aluminum drive shaft. Lol. That's probably going to have to get something done. I drew up plans maybe for a split shaft like a 1 ton would have. With a pillow block and cross member.

That and the suspension planning is why I haven't really even addressed the exhaust yet. Just made it usable and left it that way for now. For as big as it is it's getting crowded between the rails under there lol.
 
Pics already in the PAD thread, but, the BTR shaft rockers came.
I'm finally starting to get anxious about pulling the engine back out and getting all this done.
Going to be a bit before I can start, but it's coming.

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Had this thing up to heaths place over the weekend.
Picked up the new torque converter, cam, and spring kit.
Pics of those to come.
While I was there we learned that my throttle was NOT still opening all the way. So I reset that last night, and played with the acceleration enrichment in the tune.

It finally did a dry ground power braked burnout:woot::burnout:

Now to get the new parts in and get the heads ported:thumb:

Decided nows a good time to get the tranny rebuilt too. Like heath said, I don't want to screw up the new converter by destroying the old trans.
We think it's slipping a little. And I know nothing about it. Besides it's in a truck with 430,000 miles lol.

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My buddy at work today keeps being the devil on my shoulder. He pointed out that I already have a 454. I told him I couldn't get myself to put that in the cutlass. So he rationalized it as... "You already know the burbs too heavy for good burnouts. So put the LS in the cutlass, and put the 454 in the burb 'as is', and be done with it."


:thinking::doah::angry1:. Damn him. He makes too much sense when I'm trying to stay focused :haha:


Maybe I could ask for a different partner today :thinking: lol.
 
The 454 could make more power than the LS, but it will have more weight.

A 455 olds is a torque monster, more stroke factory.

The LS is lighter for handling.

If you rebuild the 454 a 4.25" stroke crank is worth it. Make a 489 or 496, a very good engine.
 
Heads on the way with intake to match. They're stock L92 heads and intake.

The intake is identical to mine, just has the rectangle ports to match the heads.

I unfortunately didn't anticipate switching heads. So the shaft rockers kit has the wrong rockers on the intake spots. So I have to buy the offset ones and switch them all... :doah:.
Oh well. It's only an extra $85.

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Intake rockers on the way.

Also ordered a bridge mount so I can get some accurate measurements on the piston to deck clearance.
That way when it goes together I can order the correct gaskets and get the quench right.

Overtime run starts tomorrow night. Hopefully it only takes a month or so to get the cash for the trans rebuild.

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