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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Overview Gallery Discussion
Got my return processed with summit for the BTR kit. Shipping label printed.
Unfortunately summit doesn't have the rec port version. And BTR says they're back ordered. So I see if someone else has them in stock. Or just put it all together with the new stock ACdelco ones that came with my heads and be done with it.... :dunno:
 
Just remembered.

I also have the individual intake rockers coming tomorrow from Amazon. I'll have to return those now too.
Michigan Motorsports says they have them. But they may just order them from BTR and drop ship to the customer. Maybe they don't know about the backorder even.
No idea.
I guess stock ls3 rockers have been getting people by for a long time. And it's an easily changeable part later if need be.

Typical for me to go 3 steps forward and have to take 2 back. You'd think I'd learn lol.
 
New TPS found and ordered.
AC Delco professional. Hopefully it's legit and not a knock-off. Found on Amazon.
 
Bad grounds on the block could affect both sensors. Depending on where the O2 sensors ground, could be problem there - or even reference to the ecm..
 
I know electrical interference causes issues with the sniper setups.... Quick question,....
What's the chance that heavy rfi from my chitty cheap azz spark plug wires did this. Being under heavy load and all.
I get heavy interference buzz through like my phone when it's plugged in to charge, and the radio when I had it in. Been planning on doing the wires but it ran and the stereo isn't in for now so I just haven't.

It's pretty bad now days though. So I wonder :thinking:
My ecm is mounted about 10" away from and parallel to the passenger side bank of wires. Main harness is even closer.
 
Little more than a foot. But still close.
Second pic was before it was installed, but it shows the distance of each better.

Screenshot_20240318-044252.png

Screenshot_20240318-044304.png

Screenshot_20240318-044610.png
 
shady said:
I know electrical interference causes issues with the sniper setups.... Quick question,....
What's the chance that heavy rfi from my chitty cheap azz spark plug wires did this. Being under heavy load and all.
I get heavy interference buzz through like my phone when it's plugged in to charge, and the radio when I had it in. Been planning on doing the wires but it ran and the stereo isn't in for now so I just haven't.

It's pretty bad now days though. So I wonder :thinking:
My ecm is mounted about 10" away from and parallel to the passenger side bank of wires. Main harness is even closer.
Click to expand...

It's definitely possible to cause problems, not sure on that exact issue. They typically want you to use RFI plug wires on just CDI boxes, let alone an EFI ECU. I have only used or recommended MSD Super Conductor or Firecore 50 wires with Holley EFI, and quality throttle bodies...;)
 
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Well see, I used the absolute cheapest chit on Amazon for both. And my truck only mysteriously completely gave up once :shame:





:haha::rotfl::haha::rotfl:

Yeah.. mistakes were made lol.

But I only cheaped out on easy to access parts because I was running out of money and needed it going. The only place I fugged up on 'can't reach em' stuff, is the ring gap.
When I shoved the pistons in the hole I thought the engine was going to be in a DD tow rig though. Lol.
 
$120 for a full set of race wires and a TB loaded with the sensors....... What could go wrong.. :dunno:


:haha:

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Ok. So on the rocker debacle,
Summit processed the return, and I'm getting $457 back. They have in stock, the shaft kit that comes with everything but rockers, and the straight rockers for the exhaust.

So.
Intake rockers I already bought and have
$85
Shaft/bearing/trunnion stand kit
$310
Exhaust rockers I need yet.
$85

$480. And the original pre assembled kit was $470.
So in actuality, it's costing me $10 and the time it takes to press the bearings in the rockers quick.
For the mistake I created for myself.

That's not as bad as I thought.
 
New TPS sensor is in. And I removed the adjustable positive stop I made into my pedal.
Now the only thing that will keep it from going full open is my seat position.
Hopefully it doesn't strain the cable at the end.

In the vid you can see it go way open. Then pause and slowly go a little farther. That's me repositioning in my seat and straining to push down harder. Which is a big part of the not getting 100% continually.
I'm going to make or buy 1/2" spacers to get the pedal out farther. And when I get new seats it'll also be easier to keep from sinking back into them under full go pedal.

IMG_20240320_103609825.jpg

IMG_20240320_103619908~2.jpg

View attachment VID_20240320_105226122~2.mp4
 
It should hit a positive stop on the TB at 90 every time, it shouldn't be something that depends on seat position, and the TB shouldn't allow it to go over 90, there should be a metal on metal stop in it.
 
I have one of those Chinese throttle body's, can't wait to rip it off for a motion raceworks.

Watch out for the IAC It had a weird ramp in it that I ended up swapping out to a GM sensor.
 
Matters on seat because I can't physically push it all the way down. Short legs and all. If I move the seat forward the wheel is too close and my arms are all cramped. Then when I push down on the pedal, it starts hitting carpet with the metal rod on the back side before it gets all the way down. So I have to push through that at the last bit too.
 
I figured the carpet would eventually loosen up/ wear in so haven't messed with that yet.
The TB is opening 100 now it just takes me some finagling in my seat to get it there lol.
 
Gotta go DBW to do that. I like cables.

I'm going to make up some spacers at work and see how that goes.
 
shady said:
Matters on seat because I can't physically push it all the way down. Short legs and all. If I move the seat forward the wheel is too close and my arms are all cramped. Then when I push down on the pedal, it starts hitting carpet with the metal rod on the back side before it gets all the way down. So I have to push through that at the last bit too.
Click to expand...
Time for some blocks on your shoes
 
We have a dude at work that works a different shift than me. He's about 5" shorter, and I have to move the seat up after he gets out :doah:. But that truck has a telescopic steering wheel, so I can get it away from me.

A lot of my current issue is the carpet and such being stronger than the seat back lol.
When I get it down to the last 1/2 of pedal movement, I'm compressing pad/carpet. That's one of the reasons I think the spacers will help.
Pedal mounts with 3 bolts on a flat spot, so it should be super simple. 1/2-3/4" would probably be about perfect. At work I'll chuck up some round stock and drill a hole in the center. Then slice off the chunks I need. Or just see what ACE has :thinking:
I debated just slicing the carpet out under the pedal. Or the pad behind it at least. But I'd rather space the pedal instead.
The old worn out carpet and pad didn't have the same. issue. The new one does.

The seat foam is about 6" thick at the lower back. And has 430,000 miles on it. So it doesn't take much to sink in it. New seats from a sportier type car, or a set from a '15+ Silverado would be much better. Still working on that though.
 
shady said:
Matters on seat because I can't physically push it all the way down. Short legs and all. If I move the seat forward the wheel is too close and my arms are all cramped. Then when I push down on the pedal, it starts hitting carpet with the metal rod on the back side before it gets all the way down. So I have to push through that at the last bit too.
Click to expand...
New handle for Shady Fred Shadystone :rotfl:
 
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