LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

[shady]

I have the shaft mount kit and exhaust rockers coming.
So aside from the random gaskets and stuff that I'll need, and the cash for the trans rebuild, everything is going to be in a pile soon.

I have to do a pretty big refurb job on a buddies 02 jeep. He's the one who loaned me the money for my lift, and he asked me about it last fall lol. So I better do that quick.
That'll give me time to gather the last 2/3 of the money I need for my transmission too.

There's more detail stuff, and some further cleaning I'd like to do while the engines out. Plus exhaust mods, shifter swap, and possibly a revamp on the rear U-bolts/plates. So mines going to take longer than his anyway.

I've driven it around town after the TPS sensor swap, and everything has been fine. I've mashed on it hard a few times, so far so good.
But nothing up to 84 or anything yet lol.

There's been a pop sound here and there from the rear. And the other day I drove it around, got on it a couple times, and parked in front of my shop.
I decided to stay in it and mess with my phone a bit since it was raining.
I was sitting there with the engine off for about 5 minutes and there was a large pop from what sounded like the rear passenger side. And a sort of movement of the body at the same time. Almost like a small dude body checked my fender, but sharper.
The only thing I can think of is the axle sliding on the spring whatever little bit the pin hole allows.
Got under bind and released..?
That is the side that the U-bolt saddle that goes under the axle rotted some and crushed when I torqued it. So I know it's not fully torqued. Tight as F***, but no click and I stopped when I seen the deformation.

I REALLY want to link it, but that has to wait till the body and stereo get love. So I'll fix the suspension it has for now.

 

[shady]

Found this, and thought it was curious and good info to know.
Going by the chart, with 15# or less boost,you multiply bore by .0055.
That leaves me at .022" for recommended gap.

This is what I gapped mine too. So close lol
Forgot I wrote it in the book.

 

[shady]

Took it to work today. Made a couple hard rolling pulls. Nothing crazy like a 0-100.
Everything worked fine, no hiccups.
I gotta get out and give her a good hard pull from zero at some point. But the odd clunk deal in the rear needs attention first. I'm not even talking it to work again until I figure that out.

 

[shady]

Replacement shaft rocker kit assembled. Got paid to do it lol.
Reason I wanted these rockers was this oiling hole for the tip.
Oil is "supposed" to come out, go down into the shaft area and into the rollers. Plus follow the ridges at both sides and pool over the hole going through and lubing the valve contact area directly.

I figured if I was already going to buy the roller bearings and rockers, I'd just do the shaft kit for them while I was at it. Normal car that I beat once in a while I wouldn't have done it. But since this gets close to redline at some point nearly every time it's driven, it couldn't hurt. Lol.

 

[shady]

Swapped the new springs onto my heads.
Then set the rockers set on for a test fit and poser pic

 

[shady]

When I went up to heaths place, we tried to do a burnout, and did a couple hard pulls.
At that time it felt like the trans was slipping.
The engine revved father before it tried to push the truck during the burnout, and the shifts were softer.

This only happened after the long trip up.
It never happened before that, or since.
It's tire chirping shifts usually. Before and after the trip.
Line temps never usually go above 140. And I watched them on the trip up. All was normal.

So what could cause that....? General heat soak?
Maybe I see line temps of 140 here but the parts don't get that hot? Or the trip there heated everything up, and the line temp was staying there due to cooler.?

It's just odd. I can't figure out what would cause that.

Work has cut down OT, so me rebuilding the trans will come down to a personal loan probably.
Kinda blows. I like having no real payments lol.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

Unless you had a pressure or fluid problem causing the clutches to not lock. And the clutches not locking up will cause their own degradation quick.. sounds like a rebuild is in the near future.

 

[76zimmer]

How much room do you have between pass side valve cover and firewall? What dipstick are you using?

 

[shady]

I'm using the stock dipstick and tube that came with the truck. It cleared everything so I went with it.

 

[folkenheath]

You could try rebuilding it yourself, but it will be a big time sucker, just a warning. Someone on here had a thread on it.

 

[shady]

Nah. Auto transmission is the only place on a car I draw the line. I got a guy for that lol.
Figured out I can do a secured loan for super low interest because of my CD's
So I'm going to the bank tomorrow to get the money and get the trans done.
It'll probably be at his shop this week already.

Due to the heavy azz burb doing tire chipping shifts, I'm going to add the hardened input shaft and ask him if we should upgrade anything else.

If I save by doing whatever OT I 'can' get, it'll take me all summer to come up with enough.
This way I'll get it done, and just use the remaining available OT to pay it down/off.

 

[shady]

Think I need to do a little clearancing.
I knew it would eventually hit there.
Doing it on both sides

 

[JoshHefnerX]

Shorter shackle?

 

[shady]

No. Rear is already too high. So I'm going to massage the floor to make room.

I think I can get 1/2"-3/4" of space, which should be enough.

I'm going to try tomorrow. I got it in the lift bay this afternoon. But had some pains going on that prevented me actually doing anything.
Barely got low enough to get the pics. Lol


Also today, I got the money to do my transmission, and finish buying the stereo components.
Already ordered my batteries, and four 7" midbass drivers.

Dayton audio EPIQUE .

These will fill the frequency gap between where I want to run the 15"s and 6.5"s.

Wednesday I'll call the transmission shop and see when I can drop of the 05 4l80e that came with my LS.
If I have time I'll pickup the angle I need for the battery/amp rack.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

Not familiar w/ those drivers. Let us know how they sound when you get them.

 

[shady]

They're a recent line.
Flat response from about 40-500 hz.
I'm going to run em at 60-65 to 300-400 ish.
I haven't found anything bad about em yet.

 

[shady]

These are going in boxes behind the back seat, firing at the door/seat gap.
And in kick pods up front firing back at the front seats.
They'll be run normal 4 channel so they fade and balance with the 6.5"s and tweeters. So that they essentially make a 3 way setup for mids and highs.
On a 1000 watt Orion XTR class A/B.
6.5" separates sets will be on a 750watt XTR.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

Running a/b amps.. That's old skool, lol

 

[shady]

A/B are cleaner. D has good power but it's dirtier at rated power.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

I think that may have been true at one time - and may possibly be true on really cheap amps but they've gotten way better as the switching frequencies have increased.