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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
....IMG_20241020_133930111.jpg
When it gets close to the yellow in the beginning of this, is the same as the second time it gets close to the yellow in the first pic.
IMG_20241020_133937461.jpg
 
Pretty soon your going to have skid marks all over the place!
I kinda already do lol.
There's a few long ones from other people I need to go beat.
Then I'll be happy:waytogo:

This one would have been much longer, but I seen I was getting a long ways from the wife so I let off.
There was a sheriff out tending his lawn about a half mile or so back too lol.
Made me nervous.
 
The one thing that's odd about the Terminator X, is there is almost Nothing you can change about the injectors.
Model number, and 'Off Time'. That's all I've found.:dunno:

This is all you get

View attachment 489226

View attachment 489227
There are tolerances on injectors, they vary more than you think. I've even had them flowed and seen a 10% variation within the same set, which you can use the individual cylinder "offset" feature to correct if you know this.

Also, off time is the minor variation, the actual rated flow and pressure are what it calculates the VE with. However, I wouldn't worry about that error, the final fueling is what matters and changing the fuel flow to get the VE to align with what we think it should be is just going to make it learn again for no real reason.

Off time has a larger effect at lower flow than high flow, because if the off time is 2 mS and its only on for 6 mS and it thinks the off time is 1 mS then you just changed the fueling by almost 20%. However, it can still learn it will just take longer and the VE will be even further off. Where as 1 mS at high flow is a pretty small percentage.
 
So, now that the radiator is fixed, I decided to get back to playing with the tune.

I started by downloading the current, then downloading it again under a new name.
That way I can go back if I want.
I took the new one and turned the timing down like Heath had advised.
I have a WOT timing of 27 now, and blended it for m there.
At the same time (should have waited and did one at a time), I turned up the acceleration enrichment.


I went to a couple sites like LS1tech, and some other one I can't remember.
Essentially my engine is an iron block LS3 with a cam. Same compression, bore, stroke, heads, etc.

According to those sites 27 is the sweet spot for the LS3.
So tonight on my way home from work, I'll see how it does:dunno:

I only said turn the timing down first, because it's safer. Typically lower timing doesn't give you more power unless you are getting detonation or close to it.

This is why I suggested trying the "simple" timing to learn what it wants quickly and then incorporating it into the curve. Because the "simple timing" is all in by 2000 RPM, which is usually a little aggressive for a heavy suburban, but with your new cam and converter it might like it. Heck, you could even save the timing map and lock it out all as fixed timing like some race distributors. I had my regal locked at 38 degrees for 10 years, (do not use that number for an LS) because not enough vacuum for vacuum advance, I'd rather have it locked. But your timing is kind of infinitely tunable, no limits with rotor phasing, so you might as well use that feature.

It seems to me like you actually turned the timing up a little in the area near the converter launch, but you may have turned it down up higher? What does your timing chart look like now?
 
There are tolerances on injectors, they vary more than you think. I've even had them flowed and seen a 10% variation within the same set, which you can use the individual cylinder "offset" feature to correct if you know this.

Also, off time is the minor variation, the actual rated flow and pressure are what it calculates the VE with. However, I wouldn't worry about that error, the final fueling is what matters and changing the fuel flow to get the VE to align with what we think it should be is just going to make it learn again for no real reason.

Off time has a larger effect at lower flow than high flow, because if the off time is 2 mS and its only on for 6 mS and it thinks the off time is 1 mS then you just changed the fueling by almost 20%. However, it can still learn it will just take longer and the VE will be even further off. Where as 1 mS at high flow is a pretty small percentage.
It just surprised me that the Holley only had those 2 real settings for the injectors, because the injector info on aftermarket injectors seems like there's a LOT of different numbers and graphs lol.

I was kind of wondering on the 'RATED' pressure and flow it asks for, because the Holley numbers came up different than the site I got them from.
But the Holley numbers might be real, and the site may have rounded. Site said 50lbhr and 58 psi.
Holley has 49.5 and 60.
Changing those to match the site numbers did change the injector end angle chart. So I put it back the way it was.
 
I'll get a pic of current timing map in a bit.
Basically I just went to LS sites, and seen what timing guys are running on cammed LS3s.
Since besides the iron block, that's essentially what I have. Multiple people, even one that builds and dynos engines in a shop said that 25-28 was the sweet spot on cammed LS3s. So I just put everything from 88kpa UP at 27. Then did some line blending and a final single SMOOTH.

The timing in the flat spot actually came down some I think, from when I had 33 at WOT, but everything below that RPM wise came up in the upper lines.

There is also definitely an air restriction somewhere. During the last datalog you can see the map falling off hard at high RPM, and it doesn't even come back fully after the shift and falls even farther by the time I let off.
I had the air box lid off for that one too.

I'm actually just scared to run it without the filter, even though I see dudes with turbos do it all the time lol. Think I'll do my filter box mod to get my bigger element in there, and see what happens after. Either way it can't hurt to have a bigger element.
Besides the intake it's self, I can't see anything else that may be the restriction.
 
Oh, and I emailed Cordova dragway to see how I go about running it on a test and tune night, and what I need for tech inspection.
:waytogo:
 
Current IMG_20241021_094204744.jpg

Before.
Looks like it came up about 1 degree in the flat spot. (2500-3000)
A bunch of degrees below that.IMG_20241017_141712983.jpg
When I initially did it, I smoothed it twice and didn't line blend. It brought my idle area way up.
So I went back, and brought the idle area back down, then did the line blend and a single SMOOTH.

That idle being so high thing is still a trip to me.
I'm used to small blocks and setting them at 12 or so. 24-25 seems crazy lol. Seems to be fine though.
 
When I did that, I figured anything above 88 means I'm WOT anyway, so I just changed it all.

Couldn't think of any reason for it to be 15* at WOT and 900 rpm.:dunno:.

Doesn't ping, knock, or rattle. Sooo.. :waytogo:
 
Have fun!

If you power brake it as much as possible, it should help your ET but your MPH might drop 1 or so. If you don't your ET will be slightly slower but your MPH might pick up a tad.

Don't forget, in a car thats even just 2,000 lbs lighter it would feel like you had another 200 HP, and that's still a heavy car.
 
I'm actually kind of confused. On a regular road, I've done 0-100 in 13.08.
On a track it's not even quite 100 and 14+....?
Seems odd.

I tried to do a burnout in the box, but the wet surface made it do the "WHAA-dead" Thing again. So I had to restart it quick. Embarrassing as hell.
Then going it felt like it took longer to get to the first shift than normal.:dunno:
I'm still happy with the time I got.

Didn't have time to stay another 45 minutes and run again.

View attachment VID_20241026_125821272.mp4
 
If your first trip down the strip you weren't disappointed in your time you have probably never been down the strip.

Plus you never got to run again and change the timing or try it without an air cleaner or anything, so only getting one pass makes that more difficult.

Hope you had fun, wish you had time to actually test there.

So it revs up and then dies in the burnout while you are still floored? Sounds like it ran out of fuel if the ignition didn't cut off.

Did you get a data log?
 
Oh, and to add to that, your reaction time doesn't effect your ET, so don't worry about that.
 
Actually, it wasn't fun at all for me lol. I just wanted a time slip, and I sat around for 3 hrs to get it.
Not something I'd do regularly.

Only thing that disappointed me is the tech guy told me "If you run faster than 14 you need a helmet. But your not gonna have to worry about that."
And I wanted to go back and show him a sub 14 slip in the worst way lol.

He said I'd be in the 15-16's.

I expected to be in the high 13's.

And I think 2-3 more runs just the way it is would actually do that. I just wasn't spending all day there for it.
 
I have a time slip to post on the bar... That's all I needed :waytogo: lol.



The dieing thing is what I've been talking about the whole time. And even caught it on a log and posted it before.
When it happens, the handheld and log don't match numbers and such.
The A/F goes to like 32-35 on my read out,engine is dead, and I have to shut it completely key off, then just restart it normally.
Log shows a normal A/F and everything points to nothing went wrong. But it's not running, so something did?


I've tried getting it to happen when I have a GoPro pointed at the dash, and the log running, but I haven't been able to catch that yet.
 
Now that I've been through it once, and have a better idea of how it goes, how long you have after they call your group, etc. I may make a day of it once next year.
This time I sat on my bumper the whole time waiting to hear them call test/tune to the staging lanes.
My wife went up and watched the races after they started. I stayed at the truck.
I know now that I have time after being called and such. So I may once again.

That'd make it funner probably.
 
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