CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
The amount of power running through this truck is awesome.
I can definitely feel a weight difference in this lol.
It won't be doing 14 second 1/4's anymore.
I'll be lucky if it does burnouts even a little.
Guess I'm just going to have to get my burnout jollies out of the Cutlass
This thing is still pure joy to drive though lol.
Only downfall to the stereo is I can't hear the exhaust anymore
.
Gonna need different mufflers
It won't be doing 14 second 1/4's anymore.
I'll be lucky if it does burnouts even a little.
Guess I'm just going to have to get my burnout jollies out of the Cutlass
This thing is still pure joy to drive though lol.
Only downfall to the stereo is I can't hear the exhaust anymore
.Gonna need different mufflers
A blower will fix that.
I like to make sure I have more HP in my engine than watts in my stereo, it can be a vicious cycle if you upgrade your stereo, but I think in this case the engine is just going to have to submit to losing. 
So, first round version of door pods has started.
I want a more flowing design. But I'm new to the UV fiberglass resin, and still a novice with fiberglass in general really. So I'll go this route first, and fancy them up some day when I'm more confident if I feel the need.
Red is 7" placement, purple is the 6.5"
I want a more flowing design. But I'm new to the UV fiberglass resin, and still a novice with fiberglass in general really. So I'll go this route first, and fancy them up some day when I'm more confident if I feel the need.
Red is 7" placement, purple is the 6.5"
UV resin is nice if you're on a time table - but very expensive. Vinyl or epoxy are just as good and cheaper.
I built my pods in 2 pieces. Used a bunch of tape to shape out the backside - glassed that in. Then put some rings in w/ dowels and stretched over some spandex - and resin coated that. Once hard - layered up. It's pretty easy. And, very messy.
www.diymobileaudio.com
I built my pods in 2 pieces. Used a bunch of tape to shape out the backside - glassed that in. Then put some rings in w/ dowels and stretched over some spandex - and resin coated that. Once hard - layered up. It's pretty easy. And, very messy.
2009 G8 GT Build
Nice.
I've built some before. But mixing normal bondo fiberglass resin per the instructions all ways went bad.
I think I'll use half the hardener next time around.
15 minutes in everything was sticking to my brush, pulling the strips off and getting like peanut butter.
Going UV this time to see how that goes.
Built a vented box with 2 of the correct wave UV rating lights. I'll build them and put em in there.
See how this round goes lol
I've built some before. But mixing normal bondo fiberglass resin per the instructions all ways went bad.
I think I'll use half the hardener next time around.
15 minutes in everything was sticking to my brush, pulling the strips off and getting like peanut butter.
Going UV this time to see how that goes.
Built a vented box with 2 of the correct wave UV rating lights. I'll build them and put em in there.
See how this round goes lol
You should only be using milkshake for sealing. It's not good structure. And you use a lot less hardner because of the bondo.
Was thinking about it, and 15-20mins is prob fairly normal layup time for vinyl resin. I always had a hard time as the extra heat here would kick it off faster.
Was thinking about it, and 15-20mins is prob fairly normal layup time for vinyl resin. I always had a hard time as the extra heat here would kick it off faster.
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Milkshake...? Don't know what you mean here.
I've watched videos of dudes using normal fiberglass resin like mine. Mixing it, then going through a tutorial layering chit and talking, using the same resin he mixed for a half hr.
Mine would have been a rock by then.
Hence why I want to try less hardener.
This stuff
I've watched videos of dudes using normal fiberglass resin like mine. Mixing it, then going through a tutorial layering chit and talking, using the same resin he mixed for a half hr.
Mine would have been a rock by then.
Hence why I want to try less hardener.
This stuff
Different products have different set times.
Using less hardner means it will not Harden properly do not use less than recommended. I had one that was 30 minutes work time, the problem was waiting too long before I could move to the next step.
15 minutes is better for small jobs.
I wouldn't be working on a boat with the 15 minutes though
Your supposed to follow a chart for temp and adjust the hardener by ambient temp.
I just did 1 drop per ounce, per direction on the side. Which is probably too much for a 90* day.
Can doesn't have the chart on it.
I Had everything layed out and ready.
But I may have been trying to do too much as in too many layers at once.
When I tried putting the second layer on, I was pulling the first layer off with the brush.
Should have probably stopped at 1 layer.
It was a 12"x8" pod, so I figured I could do 2 layers fast and move on. Didn't work.
Tried again another day. Same thing.
Think next round when I do internal stiffening, I'll do 2-3 oz and a few strips. Let set, and do it again, etc.
I just did 1 drop per ounce, per direction on the side. Which is probably too much for a 90* day.
Can doesn't have the chart on it.
I Had everything layed out and ready.
But I may have been trying to do too much as in too many layers at once.
When I tried putting the second layer on, I was pulling the first layer off with the brush.
Should have probably stopped at 1 layer.
It was a 12"x8" pod, so I figured I could do 2 layers fast and move on. Didn't work.
Tried again another day. Same thing.
Think next round when I do internal stiffening, I'll do 2-3 oz and a few strips. Let set, and do it again, etc.
How I learned is one layer at a time that's why short set time so you can wait another 10 minutes and then do another layer
Temp does affect the hardener a bit. My working times here were generally less than 20 mins and I was a bit light on the hardener. If I was any heavier I'd get less than 10 mins. My garage was 100deg much of the time. But you get your strips ready, and in place, then mix then douse them. Do batches/layers. You're not gonna do a project at once, so don't try.
You mentioned bondo, I thought you were making 'milkshake'. A lot of times for enclosures, people will mix some bondo, resin and hardner to make a milkshake - comes out like chocolate milkshake consistency. Can dump that in and let it flow into corners to help seal any edges. Good for sealing, bad for structure.
You've got two sheets of wood in your door, which isn't really taking advantage of fiberglass. The best part of it is the ability to conform to shapes you cant get outta wood. With your front/rear out of mdf there, you may be better off just kerfing a piece for the edge there and gluing.
You mentioned bondo, I thought you were making 'milkshake'. A lot of times for enclosures, people will mix some bondo, resin and hardner to make a milkshake - comes out like chocolate milkshake consistency. Can dump that in and let it flow into corners to help seal any edges. Good for sealing, bad for structure.
You've got two sheets of wood in your door, which isn't really taking advantage of fiberglass. The best part of it is the ability to conform to shapes you cant get outta wood. With your front/rear out of mdf there, you may be better off just kerfing a piece for the edge there and gluing.
One other thing, Get your resin and glass from a supplier. If you're getting something off the shelf, you have no idea how long that shit's been sitting. There is an expiration on them whether or not its listed. And that will screw w/ how much working time you have.
The kerfed corner thing doesn't really work there. It's a multi angle thing not as cutting and dry as it looks.
I left it this way because
1. It's less fiberglassing
2. I prefer wood over fiberglass for bass. Fiberglass isn't stiff enough unless your LAYERing it.
3. This actually gives me almost exactly what I need for air space, puts the speakers in the right locations. (These are actually semi tuned sealed enclosures, not normal 6.5 pods.)
The front and back measured out at an even 4" apart, will get me within the range I want, but on the high end. These are 2.25 at top, and 5 at the bottom. So close enough.
The ends will be as much wood as I can do easy enough, and any left over opening will get glassed.
The front edge actually has a bunch of angles and twists going on.
The bottom is angled up, plus has that rounded corner, and the face plate actually sticks out over the B pillar some when the door's closed.
That end will be all glass. With stiffening bars.
I'll see what I can get for pics tomorrow
Be sure you seal that wood w/ some resin before doing any glassing - that shit's gonna soak it up and give you problems.
Yeah Ill do one coat to seal it all, sand high spots, then rough sand where the fleece will touch and put that on, then coat the whole thing again.
I've made 4 pods before, 2 came out ok, 2 did not lol.
I'm shooting for all good this time.
I gotta round the front upper corner yet, but here's a few pics of the door shut
I've made 4 pods before, 2 came out ok, 2 did not lol.
I'm shooting for all good this time.
I gotta round the front upper corner yet, but here's a few pics of the door shut
