CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
I forked up :doah:

The cheap motor side mounts I bought needed some clearancing to actually mount in the correct position. And instead of doing it when I figured that out, I threw them on in the 1" forward position so I could get it on the engine cradle quick. Figured I'd fix it when I picked it up to put it in.....

I forgot lol.
So now I have to pick it back up far enough to get them off and make em right. Then I can put it back where it goes and bolt it all back in.

I have a big part on order that should be here mid this month. :D
With any luck I'll actually get enough time off work to get this thing together this month yet.
I have to cover a couple of guys vacation by myself right now because the dude that I usually split it with has been out on med leave for like 2 months and no idea when he'll be back.
My goal is burnouts before turkey day lol.
 
Well.... The fricken speed engineering headers don't fit. :doah:
I did buy them for a square body. But the site said they fit all the way to like 99.... :dunno:
They actually hit the transmission.
And some squares did have the 4l80.
So I'll probably end up selling these. And look for another pair.

That was kind of disheartening to find.
 
That blows. I’ve run them on a couple of vehicles with great luck. They are actually a pretty decent header for the money. I’m pretty certain the cheapy summit’s I’m running now are probably SE.
 
I think I could make em work. But I don't want to do what I'd have to lol.

They just barely graze the bracket circled in red. I think I could massage something to make that clear. But they straight hit the transmission ear sticking out circled in blue..
To the point of the bolts won't line up.

I didn't take a pic of the driver's side. That one technically seems like it fits. But it touches the lower control arm bracket, and would also need some clearancing I think.

IMG_20211003_160629996~2.jpg
 
I'm gonna double check their site. Maybe I read it wrong :dunno:
 
Didn't see the trimming required part I guess.

Screenshot_20211003-175436.png
 
Not sure all them notes were there a year ago lol.

The sliding the mounts back an inch thing is BS. They won't clear the frame brackets by moving an inch back that I can tell. As is when I put the engine 1" back where it goes, it's going to make the driver's side even worse. But that side is still doable.
I see no way to do the passenger side without the trans ear coming off.
I kind of don't like that, but I'm not entirely against it.
 
It is the widest point for the cast converter cover to bolt to.
Which has the torque arms bolted to it.
With the increased power and torque, I'm only worried about it being weaker.
That and it will end up with a big azz hole in the side to let crap in. I want to make this as nice as possible, but it will still get driven most of the year also.

So I'd have to find a way to cover that hole.
 
The ear on the trans really wasn't doing anything. The cover didn't use that hole. So I trimmed the cover and cut that ear off.

Motor is in the correct position now. And I have some massaging to do, but they will work.
1" farther back, wouldn't make a lot of difference.

That would help with clearance where it turns down on the pass side and goes past the frame.

The other 2 places where they are hitting the control arm mounts it wouldn't help.

I'll add pics when I'm at home. Cell/data service at the shop sucks.
 
Tomorrow I plan to take the red section out of the upper A arm mount, push the blue together and weld it. That will give me what I need there, and won't interfere with the operation of the A arm or alignment.
Then the tube with green on it will get flattened some down one side..

On the driver's side all I have to do is flatten in the point of that corner.

IMG_20211005_180327231~4.jpg

IMG_20211005_180405192~2.jpg
 
I could actually gain a lot by the old school wrap a ratchet strap around it trick.
But these headers are stout, and all the leverage would be put to the aluminum heads. Maybe it'd be ok...? But I don't want to find out the hard way.
 
Headers are in and clearanced.
They won't touch on the driver's side I don't think. But I'm not sure how far torque twist will go on the pass side.
There about 1/4"-3/8" of space on that side. And it'll torque that way. But should be pulling up also, which will increase the space.

IMG_20211006_155656867~2.jpg

IMG_20211006_155615616.jpg

IMG_20211006_155631010.jpg

IMG_20211006_155740106.jpg
 
For future reference if you want these.
I had to grind on the block AND massage(dent) the header also, in the area circled.

Which has nothing to do with transmission, vehicle it's going in, etc.

It wasn't hard, and went pretty quick.

Kinda sucks that I had to though.

Other tweaks are what they are.. I've had to do some of them to other headers I've had lol.

IMG_20211005_172222072~2.jpg
 
It sucks that things dont usually 'just fit'. But headers are usually one that needs 'fitting'.. but you got it in there. And small dents rarely make much of a difference in the end.
 
Only part that kind of bugged me in the end was having to grind on the block. Really that part of the block is kind of a useless protrusion, so it wasn't a big deal. Just something you'd think speed engineering should have caught :dunno:

Maybe their test block didn't have it...
 

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