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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
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Once this is reliably driving around, I can start getting back to the stereo side of things lol. FINALLY.

In the time that I've been into the motor swap, the wood I want for the sub box has almost tripled in price. :doah:


Maybe it's getting MDF for a little while instead. Lol.
 
I felt the same about the trans shifting softer, you can bump the pressure a tad and get that feeling right.

One thing that helped with my trans tuning was a program called blue cat tunes. You enter in data and it calculates the shift points for you.
 
shady said:
Once this is reliably driving around, I can start getting back to the stereo side of things lol. FINALLY.

In the time that I've been into the motor swap, the wood I want for the sub box has almost tripled in price. :doah:


Maybe it's getting MDF for a little while instead. Lol.
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I say the same thing 7 years on the road and still don’t have a radio in it. Something about the engine just makes me happy and at peace.
 
I got into the trans tab and looked around, looked at lock up parameters and such, but didn't really look it all over well.
Just kind of clicked through it fast.

One thing that sucks is most of the videos on YT are all boost and crazy build based. I want a normal DD that I can rag on once in a while and only went with the terminator because maybe I'm going to boost it in some way in the future.
(Probably, but I want to get some use out of this rebuilt engine before I fug it up. :haha: )
 
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My buddy told me today that this is officially my loudest truck.... :dunno:


This one is 6.2 LS, headers, H pipe, dynomax super turbos. All 3"
My blue truck is bored BBC, headers, flowmaster delta 50's. All 3" (I think it's the loudest)
Newest burb is 7.4, factory, giant azz space between the cat flanges because the bolts are broke, and some sort of booty fabbed exhaust around a single ratty chambered muffler of some sort lol.
(Sounds like azz :haha: ) and still louder than the LS burb I think lol.
 
shady said:
I got into the trans tab and looked around, looked at lock up parameters and such, but didn't really look it all over well.
Just kind of clicked through it fast.

One thing that sucks is most of the videos on YT are all boost and crazy build based. I want a normal DD that I can rag on once in a while and only went with the terminator because maybe I'm going to boost it in some way in the future.
(Probably, but I want to get some use out of this rebuilt engine before I fug it up. :haha: )
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I have ran into the same boat, my truck was tuned as a wide open 1/4 mile car. It didn’t do so well on the street but I have sense worked a lot of that out.
 
Silly question but would be good to double check did you put the correct tire and gear ratio size in the wizard?
 
I double checked the tire size and ratio when I fixed the injectors and trans. And today driving it around I checked the speed readout against gps.

I noticed my current line pressure never goes above 33%.
Not sure what that should be.

I grabbed a few pics of some of the displays while sitting and driving. But I have to see what's what before I post em up. Lol.

All in all it drove fine today. Put probably 40-50 miles of easy driving on it.
Then in a turn I got a weird sound feel out from the front and started hearing pump whine.
Looks like something under the hydro booster popped.
Out of PS fluid and everything directly below the center of the hydro booster is wet lol. None of the hoses are though.
 
Figured it was time for a quick small pull so I video'd it lol.
 

Attachments

  • VID_20220505_114247573.mp4
    35.5 MB
I'm not sure why the trans is going to full line pressure when I give it a quick one like that.
No idea if that's ok or not .
I'm going to do some playing with it on the PC tonight at work. See what I can do.
 
shady said:
I'm not sure why the trans is going to full line pressure when I give it a quick one like that.
No idea if that's ok or not .
I'm going to do some playing with it on the PC tonight at work. See what I can do.
Click to expand...
I would think it should.
You want more clamping force on the clutches when you hammer on it :dunno:
 
I wasn't sure really.. I was reading some
Comments in another forum where a guy said it was bad for it to hit full pressure. That's why it blinks yellow when it does.
But like you say, I'd think more is better... :dunno: ?
If I have to buy a real plate style shift kit for this I will. But I do know it shifts nearly undetectable after the first one. Doesn't feel or sound to be slipping, just doesn't feel like a shift either.
Kind of just has lower rpm compared to speed than it had a second ago.

I want to put some pedal to this thing in the worst way, but I'm scared to Fock something up being a dress engine and not knowing if I should adjust the trans.

I found a shop that has a chassis Dyno, and does efi tuning. So I'm going to call them one day here and see if they can do trans tuning too. If so I'll probably take it and have it all done at once.

The terminator has the ability to store more than one tune in the hand held. So theoretically I could have them do an every day economy tune, and a Saturday night tune too. Then select accordingly when I want.
 
What gauge do you have setup that is blinking yellow? Only real way to tell is to put a pressure sensor on the trans and data log it and see where it hits.
 
The actual line pressure at the top right. Goes to zero% which is full pressure, and blinks yellow at me. How long it stays there depends on how hard I push the pedal down and how long it stays there.
 
Drove it to work and back,(about 30 miles), and it went flawlessly. Did notice I have a small trans leak still. No biggie.
I'm doing an oil change, and adding some more exhaust tube today. So I'll check it then.
 
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