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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Overview Gallery Discussion
Going by grimm jeeper it also sorta closely mimics what it'd be like with my normal tires and 4.10s.
It's only like 100 or so rpm off at 70.

Sorta looks stupid at the moment, but it'd be hard to tell if you didn't know

IMG_20220912_143130718.jpg
 
I applied my learn table to my base fuel map.
This is what it came up with.
Then before I saved it I hit smooth. Not sure if that was a good thing or not. But we'll see I guess.
I had added a little timing in the 1400-1800 area, and when cruising in that range at low load it sounded odd. Like spark knocky lol. So I took what I did back out and it is better.
I had wondered what the limits of change the knock sensors could make were. I found it.

IMG_20220920_164943628~2.jpg
 
shady said:
Going by grimm jeeper it also sorta closely mimics what it'd be like with my normal tires and 4.10s.
It's only like 100 or so rpm off at 70.

Sorta looks stupid at the moment, but it'd be hard to tell if you didn't know

View attachment 425603
Click to expand...
Ain't nothing stupid about it.
Nothing like a sleeper 'burb!!!
 
I just meant the small tires on back and bigger ones up front lol
 
I definitely think my biggest issue with the burnouts and such is the TC.
Im beginning to think I mixed up the gas and diesel ones I had laying there.
When I hold my brakes and give it gas slowly it's already trying bto move and lifting the front some at around 1100 rpm. By 1300-1400 it's pushing the front tires or spinning the rears, depending on what tires I have on the back.
I think a 2000 or so stall converter is in it's future.
Even 1800 would be better.

Aren't stock 2500hd converters like 2000-2100 ish? Read that somewhere I thought.
 
shady said:
I definitely think my biggest issue with the burnouts and such is the TC.
Im beginning to think I mixed up the gas and diesel ones I had laying there.
When I hold my brakes and give it gas slowly it's already trying bto move and lifting the front some at around 1100 rpm. By 1300-1400 it's pushing the front tires or spinning the rears, depending on what tires I have on the back.
I think a 2000 or so stall converter is in it's future.
Even 1800 would be better.

Aren't stock 2500hd converters like 2000-2100 ish? Read that somewhere I thought.
Click to expand...
Definitely sounds like a diesel tc
 
I was pretty sure I ket em straight. But it seems too low to be any stock gasser one.

Really, besides not doing burnouts, it drives around awesome though. And gets pretty decent mpg from what I've seen.
I still don't have a real average because no odometer, but I'm working on that.

Just gotta figure out how to get a Speedo output setup on the terminator.
Even in the laptop it won't let me do anything with outputs :dunno:

I can see them. But I can't change them.
 
In the transmission setup page enable the speedo output checkmark.

1663982885723.png

And then you can drive a speedometer if its PWM-

1663982914715.png

Then drag the output to the B3 terminal in the Pin Map.

1663982964808.png

Otherwise you should be able to see the speed with the handheld.
 
I'll try that. I found a spot that said speed output enable/disable. But it wouldn't let me change it. May have been in a different place though. I think it was on the hand held maybe... Dunno.

I'm using the hand held for all gauges except fuel right now. But I want an odometer. And for some weird reason, Holley doesn't offer that. Even though everything it needs for it is right there.

Plus I kind of want to hook it back up so the stock one can climb farther than it's 408k lol.
 
So I noticed a curious thing after my recent oil change.
My goal has been to run synthetic oil in this engine. But not for the initial break in time. So after reading some LS forums on break in, I seen that most use 10w-30 conventional oil for the first few changes.
I ran one about 20 min, Changed it, ran the next about 150-300 miles, changed it again, and ran the next probably 2000 or so.

Truck ran about 195-199 all summer, in the heat and all.
Changed the oil to 5w-30, which is what it wanted in it's stock vehicle, and used synthetic blend since almost ALL 5w-30 is now.
Now even on 65* days it runs more like 204-208....?
Wtf? It actually concerns me some. To me, more heat means there's more friction. Which means wear I don't want.
 
shady said:
So I noticed a curious thing after my recent oil change.
My goal has been to run synthetic oil in this engine. But not for the initial break in time. So after reading some LS forums on break in, I seen that most use 10w-30 conventional oil for the first few changes.
I ran one about 20 min, Changed it, ran the next about 150-300 miles, changed it again, and ran the next probably 2000 or so.

Truck ran about 195-199 all summer, in the heat and all.
Changed the oil to 5w-30, which is what it wanted in it's stock vehicle, and used synthetic blend since almost ALL 5w-30 is now.
Now even on 65* days it runs more like 204-208....?
Wtf? It actually concerns me some. To me, more heat means there's more friction. Which means wear I don't want.
Click to expand...
Not necessarily.
When the weather cools off which it has now, the oil gets thicker and will work the engine harder which gets it warmer.
Outside heat doesn't really affect the engine heat that much, only what temperature it can start with and how long it takes to warm up.
 
I did notice that this morning on the way in, it stayed at 198. So may have just been a one day deal :dunno: .

I wonder if anything will change when I put the oil cooler in? I heard it keeps the engine cooler, but with a 195 thermostat in the midwest, I don't think I'd see any difference.
All I need for it is a few feet of 10AN hose and a couple more fittings.
 
I don't know what changed.... But I put the good tires back on, and still managed this...:burnout::woot:

Only difference is I changed the oil and cleaned all the grease from a bad wheel seal out of the passenger brake drum

IMG_20220927_182823240~2.jpg
 
I still gotta fix the seal. But figured I'd wait until I rebuild the whole axle. Sometime this winter.
 
Stereo side of things back on track :saweet:

I need a bunch more sound deadener though. That's gonna suck because the stuff I was using is no longer available.
Closest replacement is twice as expensive now :doah:
Probably cost me another $300.

IMG_20221105_153958495.jpg

IMG_20221028_191945889.jpg

IMG_20221028_191951576.jpg
 
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