CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Started on my second alt control.
I hope this works good, because it seems like the controller was made for the dash almost lol.
The first vertical space above it will hold one of these volt meters. Hooked up to the sub batteries.
Not sure if I'm going blue or red yet. Probably get one of each.
I hope this works good, because it seems like the controller was made for the dash almost lol.
The first vertical space above it will hold one of these volt meters. Hooked up to the sub batteries.
Not sure if I'm going blue or red yet. Probably get one of each.
This little fill piece didn't have anything for the module to clip to. So I did some gluing and made a spot.
I'll have to either make a clip, or actually glue in the fill piece though.
I'm going to try and make a way so it's removable. Incase I ever change it up or just go with a 4 wire when I replace the alt.
I'll have to either make a clip, or actually glue in the fill piece though.
I'm going to try and make a way so it's removable. Incase I ever change it up or just go with a 4 wire when I replace the alt.
I mounted the dual volt gauge, bought a MASSIVE stereo capacitor, and picked up some latches for the passenger barn door.
Capacitor was picked up to help with volt drop and because I changed upon a smokin deal.
That passenger barn door on a gmt400 latches like chit. Driver latches solid top and bottom, and the pass side has on pin in the middle.
These will have to be latched from the inside top and bottom, and crawl back over the box for now. Then later I'll do Cadillac or Lincoln type trunk latches that latch and then pull down tight.
I had to make my own catches to work in my application. They're staged in the way they'll sit in the latched pic.
They started as 1/8" flat steel.
Capacitor was picked up to help with volt drop and because I changed upon a smokin deal.
That passenger barn door on a gmt400 latches like chit. Driver latches solid top and bottom, and the pass side has on pin in the middle.
These will have to be latched from the inside top and bottom, and crawl back over the box for now. Then later I'll do Cadillac or Lincoln type trunk latches that latch and then pull down tight.
I had to make my own catches to work in my application. They're staged in the way they'll sit in the latched pic.
They started as 1/8" flat steel.
This is more like what my box should look like. I'm going to go with RE's sealed version after some low power break in.
Try that for a while. And I do think I'm gonna try a real ported at some point. Possibly with different subs yet.
Try that for a while. And I do think I'm gonna try a real ported at some point. Possibly with different subs yet.
Got some stuff done on the rear doors
Start, middle, and finished.
Well, until interior gets done anyway.
This made a massive difference. Shutting the door went from sounding like a dodge Omni to a Lincoln town car.
Start, middle, and finished.
Well, until interior gets done anyway.
This made a massive difference. Shutting the door went from sounding like a dodge Omni to a Lincoln town car.
Im changing the carpet out. I'll clean up the floor, paint what needs to be painted, and sound deaden everything that hasn't been. Maybe another layer on stuff that has.
I have to run my wires under the carpet in a few places, and wanted a color change anyway. So do it all now.
I got the highest quality one with mass backing that rock auto sells.
I have to run my wires under the carpet in a few places, and wanted a color change anyway. So do it all now.
I got the highest quality one with mass backing that rock auto sells.
Reading about some engine building things, I found something I did wrong, and I'm wondering if it's hurting my off idle power.
I read that you want less than .040" of distance between the piston and quench area of the head. I have .055 gaskets, and my pistons don't come through the block, they sit a few thousandths under the deck. . ?
Not sure if it's really a big deal, but it's something I caught
If I get back in it to do ring gap for boost I'll use thinner gaskets when it goes back together.
I read that you want less than .040" of distance between the piston and quench area of the head. I have .055 gaskets, and my pistons don't come through the block, they sit a few thousandths under the deck. . ?
Not sure if it's really a big deal, but it's something I caught
If I get back in it to do ring gap for boost I'll use thinner gaskets when it goes back together.
Just drops the compression ratio which is good for boost but not for NA.Reading about some engine building things, I found something I did wrong, and I'm wondering if it's hurting my off idle power.
I read that you want less than .040" of distance between the piston and quench area of the head. I have .055 gaskets, and my pistons don't come through the block, they sit a few thousandths under the deck. . ?
Not sure if it's really a big deal, but it's something I caught
If I get back in it to do ring gap for boost I'll use thinner gaskets when it goes back together.
Reading about some engine building things, I found something I did wrong, and I'm wondering if it's hurting my off idle power.
I read that you want less than .040" of distance between the piston and quench area of the head. I have .055 gaskets, and my pistons don't come through the block, they sit a few thousandths under the deck. . ?
Not sure if it's really a big deal, but it's something I caught
If I get back in it to do ring gap for boost I'll use thinner gaskets when it goes back together.
That will lower your compression and your quench in a quench type combustion chamber. You want proper quench for the best efficiency, but it's not a showstopper, you probably lost a little bit of power but not a lot of power. I always set the quench with the deck height and/or gasket thickness.
That said, I don't usually recommend less than .040, and in larger engines (~500 cubes or more) I shoot for .045 to be on the safe side. Ideal quench would smash any carbon on the piston without actually contacting the piston.
Some people machine the head to eliminate the quench by putting an angle to the combustion chamber, but that's not common.
Keep in mind, Chevy just lowered the piston on the ZZ4 engine to reduce compression, so don't fuss too much over the quench if its already together, just run it.
I'm not going to mess with it unless I pull it for something else. As stated I didn't do gap for power adders, so if I do ANYTHING else to go higher, it almost has to come out. Anything other than a cam that is.
I know something isn't right. I just don't know what. Yeah it gets a 7 second to 60 time, and has done a couple power brakes. But the take off/ launch of about every other stock LS I've driven has been better. Most can squeak a tire at least. I have to be at the right intersection to even get it to spin a tire from a dead stop on wet pavement.
My bet is still on the converter, but I read about engine building a lot still, because I have another to do, and this one will get more done at some point.
I'm not happy with it's current power level at all.
I know something isn't right. I just don't know what. Yeah it gets a 7 second to 60 time, and has done a couple power brakes. But the take off/ launch of about every other stock LS I've driven has been better. Most can squeak a tire at least. I have to be at the right intersection to even get it to spin a tire from a dead stop on wet pavement.
My bet is still on the converter, but I read about engine building a lot still, because I have another to do, and this one will get more done at some point.
I'm not happy with it's current power level at all.
I couldn’t even get my tuned//headered l83 to chirp a tire. All the stock ls’s we had growing up wouldn’t spin a tire either from a dead stop.
This one's a lot of not stock.
Since it has relinquished it's DD duties, it will now get a major upgrade.
After a few other things are squared away, and the interior is back in this.
I'm thinking stroker kit, LSA, l92 heads, more cam, and definitely a different converter.
That should do it.
All but the LSA will happen at once. It'll come later.
Unless I do go turbo. Been reading up on how to make turbos NOT sound like YouTube turbos.
Since it has relinquished it's DD duties, it will now get a major upgrade.
After a few other things are squared away, and the interior is back in this.
I'm thinking stroker kit, LSA, l92 heads, more cam, and definitely a different converter.
That should do it.
All but the LSA will happen at once. It'll come later.
Unless I do go turbo. Been reading up on how to make turbos NOT sound like YouTube turbos.
It needs boost!
Yep, which is why it needs to come back out. Because I wasn't thinking and didn't ring gap for it. But if it has to come out, and come down to a bare block, it's getting honed and a stroker kit put in. MAW since I'm there
Only thing that sucks is the low mile forged Pistons, and cam will be useless to me, and being used, probably to anyone else.
. Oh well. Live and learn.
Be sure not to confound "LS" with vehicle type. Suburbans have more weight out back (and in total) than pickups, and therefore better traction, which is why the SUVs usually get better rear brakes than the 1/2-ton pickups. Of course gears have to be considered as well, and all the 4L60 rigs launch harder than the 4L80 rigs until you get to about 4.10 vs 3.42.
I always considered GMT820/830 1/2-ton brakes to be marginal (the 3/4-ton ones are nice), then learned the truck guys were upgrading to the SUV rear brakes to get the dual piston calipers. Don't know how well that carries over to GMT400/410, but the weight distribution is definitely different.
