CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
100%. You may have to choose which parameters are logged, but it's way more detail/data than looking at video!
The Holley is one of the best in that aspect, it records everything every time, you just have to select which parameters you want to see. But if you save the log file you could do that a year later if you needed to.

The Dominator/HP ECU records internally, which is a little more reliable datalog than the Terminator X, which has to record to an external source such as a handheld or laptop. So if there is a communication error it can skip some of the log, but that is rare.

I just went back and looked at his previous log he sent me and it was all there but some sensors flatlined when it happened, TPS and MAP.

RPM was always there, and the A/F ratio was always working.

It works with my cell, but I don't have a mount for it.
Not sure if it'll work with the GoPro.

I want to see them both and compare so I can see what's do what when.

On this part of my last data log during the first incident, the yellow line (target AFR) jumping up is the moment it happened. You see the blue line (actual AFR) start rising and it peaks around 15-16.
The top of the black is only 20 on the AFR scale.

During that entire time period, after the yellow jumps, the AFR I could see was 30+. All the way till it rolled to a near stop. Then it fell off.
So there's definitely something different between the readout and log. Why, I don't know. :dunno:
Which is why I want the video, to see and show it.
Maybe between comparing the 2 it'll be easier to figure out.

My eyes are drawn to the AFR in the truck when it happens, because it turns red. So I really don't see the other things and what they're doing.
I glance at the dash, then try and find a safe place to coast to.
I would trust the datalog over the screen. The datalog is storing data, so if it's there it's likely correct. The screen could have a lag or can bus error.

Last time it happen while you were logging the target A/F ratio changed because the TPS dropped out the same time the MAP did. So I think you have an electrical issue with more than one sensor going on. But it could could caused by a bad ground or EMI, RFI, etc, frayed wires, faulty sensor on that circuit, etc.
 
Just thinking about an observation I made this morning.
I mashed it and held the throttle,
TPS reading was between 98-100,
AFR was bouncing between 11-13,
Then there was an odd hiss sound under the hood and the AFR went to 8 something before I got my foot out of the pedal.

Pretty sure that's not far off of killing it if id have stayed in it....

:dunno:
 
Looking at that data log screenshot a few posts up, it did the same thing there.
 
What was the fuel level when these happened? Full, under half, under 1/4 tank?

Whatever happens, only happens at high load after a few moments, not immediately. It's either running out of fuel pressure like the pump sucked air, or some electrical gremlin is showing up from noise or wiring issues, etc.

A fuel pressure sensor would be a lot more useful than AFR here, the AFR has to be waaaay off to kill the engine itself.
 
First one about half. The one yesterday was almost full.
The one this morning where it didn't die, but the AF jumped so low was still almost full.
 
Yeah, I want to add one, but I have to figure out how and where.
I have an AN inline T that I had a gauge in. But no matter what I do it leaks for some reason. So I took it out. I'd have to get another one, or get something else.

I was kind of curious about my pressure, because I started thinking of the regulator.
It's the Corvette style one, but is also an Amazon cheapy I think.

I was going to go through my thread and see what all I actually bought. See what prices were bought cheap, and start upgrading.
My IAC I know is cheap, and maybe the MAP too.
Not positive about the IAT.
Wires are cheap, but I was going to just replace them when the engine goes back together anyway.

My coils... Now, my coils may be an issue.
I'll try and find pics tonight.
The coils are original to the engine, and 2 of them had the wire plug area broken off.
One of them was just a big piece,and seems to fit snug and seal. The other I pushed on the wires and siliconed on to make it run.
I was thinking, could a coil be bad, last night and remembered that.
I'd think that would be a more random and persistent problem if that was it though.

Either way, the bad ones get replaced when the work all gets done here also.
 
Only common thing I can think of is the power supply to the sensors. And that's probably the power supply to ALL the sensors. Why didn't they all go wonky..?

The part I get hung up on is...,
If it's a short, the signal would go weird, fug stuff up, then come back id think.? Probably not need me to cycle the ignition to come back to normal.:dunno:

First time was under load, but had shifted and was at lower RPM. Happened after going through 2 full gears then had just hit 3rd.

Second time was raining decent, probably 6k rpm, almost no load because it was spinning freely like on ice almost. And happened Fast. May have still been in first even.
 
Tomorrow morning I'm going to find a good backroad on the way home from work, and hook up the laptop.
Then do some hard pulls like the 0-100 I was trying to do before, and see if it does it again.

This time with vid on the gauge display, and the log going.
Start it back up if it does it, and do it again.

Then go home.


Already alerted the wife to have her phone on in case it decides NOT to start back up lol.
 
How man sensors are on the 'engine' ? Did any of them drop, are there any commonalities in the harness? Have you double checked grounding?

For it to cut off it could really only be electrical. How about something in the column?
 
Only one wire from the column connects to it, and if it shuts off the display does too.
Map sensor and TPS are the 2 that for sure dropped, and are in the same leg of the harness.

All holley's harness, directly to the ecm, routed in a way to avoid hot things and no vibration/wear points.

I haven't dug through all the sensors in the log to see if things like the cam, crank, knock, sensors did anything weird.
Never looked at the IAT and a few others that don't come up in the standard log pages either.
Guess I should get on that :thinking:
 
I did some hard pulls this morning and was pleasantly surprised :D.

One, it didn't die, lol.
Two, they were the fastest pulls I've had yet.
0-60 of 5.8 and 5.5 :woot:
0-100 of 14.3. Other run ran out of space and I shut er down at 94.
 
Oh.... Almost forgot.

My adjustable brake proportioning valve for the rears was near wide open almost. So I tried it about half what it was, brakes still feel good..... But it does this now:burnout::saweet::waytogo:

IMG_20240420_192850489.jpg
 
My adjustable brake proportioning valve for the rears was near wide open almost. So I tried it about half what it was, brakes still feel good..... But it does this now:burnout::saweet::waytogo:
I typically go on a gravel road and keep lowering the rear pressure until the rear doesn't lock up before the front.
 
That's what I plan to do. :waytogo:
Got my buddy on board to help me with it, so we can get a side visual and make sure it's right.

I had it set lower once before but I could clearly tell the rears didn't have enough.
The fronts were getting HOT driving around town.
So I just gave it a few turns open to the rear and it felt OK and I left it there.
Never thought to readjust after fixing the leaking rear hub seals and replacing the brakes.
 
One thing I thought of with the dieing deal.....

Both times it happened the truck was only partially warmed up.

First time was after starting it, letting it idle for 30-40 seconds, and driving about 2 miles. Engine was up to almost normal probably. But the trans wouldn't have been.

Second may have been warmed up more, but I'm not sure where it would have been.
I drove it to my shop, (about 15 blocks), and back.
Let it sit about 45 min or so. Then started it, pulled out of my driveway, and impulsively mashed it. Because I NEVER do that around home, but it was wet, and I wanted to break my own rule for once lol.
 
I took this from a thread in the injection section....
3 - The least desirable is to dead head the fuel rails by going directly through the regulator to return back to the tank, and having a single supply from the regulator to the fuel rails, so the only fuel that's "flowing" is through the regulator and return line. Although in many mild performance applications that works without problems. But it's not as quick to prime the system and purge air from the rails, and it also won't be as fast of response to maintain pressure in higher HP applications, because the fuel will need to start moving rapidly to respond in a pressure drop, and if the fuel is already flowing through the rails constantly it's faster for it to be redirected through the injectors.
Could this be part of my dieing issue...? :thinking:
And should I change this with my new cam and all that happening?

Currently I'm running 3/8 line up to about the B pillar or driver's seat on the frame rail, Going into a Corvette filter/regulator, then single -6AN up to the fuel rail from there. Deadhead style.
A while back the acceleration enrichment was adjusted too.
Both times happened under massive fuel consumption events.

I kinda wouldn't mind doing the double Y method with a real regulator brought up in that thread anyway.

I got the new sensor port, and fuel pressure sensor now. I just have to find the wires for it in my harness.
 
Pressure goes into the driver's side rail.
Passenger side would be the possibly starved side, and also has my O2 sensor.
 

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