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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
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Ordered this last night.
I'll see how the other side goes.
I just wish I could do it in the truck. I'm glad I put the header in before doing all the other chit.
I just knew the headers are tight and wanted to get them in first.

Which leads me to the next issue.:doah:
These heads must have the mount face in a slightly different place or angle.
Because everywhere I clearanced my headers and had 1/4"-1/2" space, is touching now :notworthy:

Screenshot_20240908-083929.png
 
Hole fix went well. All others tapped fine also.


I decided to clearance the frame and suspension mount for the header instead of trying to manipulate the header any more.

The tubes have already been massaged the first time.
So now all I really had left was bolt them in and bend them in place. Which given the header bolt hole issues, I wasn't cool with.

Clears decent now. Still tight above the suspension mount. But the engine will move up in that spot if it twists, so it should be more than enough.

Driver's side isn't any closer than the first time around. And it didn't show any signs of touching.

This is beforeIMG_20240909_125215520~2.jpgIMG_20240909_125231134~2.jpgIMG_20240909_125203852~2.jpg

After.IMG_20240909_170901661~2.jpgIMG_20240909_170911759~2.jpgIMG_20240909_170926016~2.jpg

Drivers.IMG_20240909_170956899~2.jpg

As I left it since I need intake gaskets yet.IMG_20240909_181904770.jpg
 
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After watching a chit load of videos, I'm going with the mobile 1.
It Seems to have better antiwear in a bunch of the tests. And it's already what I run in 2 other trucks.

My next pieces to replace on this will be the coils and their mounts.
I'd still like to run the same style coils, but new.
Reading through endless forums, both when I built this, and now. The best pick for coils seems to be the factory truck ones with exposed heat sink.:dunno:

The mounts I'll just sandblast and paint I guess.
 
Looks like the actual AC Delco/delphi ones are $80 each even on rockauto. Ouch .
I wonder if the aftermarkets aren't so bad :thinking:. Lol
 
shady said:
Reading through endless forums, both when I built this, and now. The best pick for coils seems to be the factory truck ones with exposed heat sink.:dunno:

The mounts I'll just sandblast and paint I guess.
Click to expand...

They have the most coil energy of the factory LS coils yes. Just keep the dwell time at or under 4.0 I believe it is, or it can cause false firing, which is bad.
 
Never even seen the dwell time in the Terminator lol.
I'll have to check that. I actually thought dwell was a points thing.
 
Is there an aftermarket alternative that's as good, but not $80 a piece?
 
If you didn't change the dwell I didn't raise it above that, its in the ignition or system parameters. Yes, they kept the term dwell time, because it applies to how long the spark last, just like in an old points system. Except you don't adjust it with tools in the distributor, you change it on your screen. ;)

I can get replacement D585 coils from Allstar, but I can't say I have long term experience with them. Current price is about $40 each. If you have GM coils that work I would just use them unless they fail.


1725981223617.png
 
It looks like the Delco ones are only $43 on summit.
That I can handle.
2 of the ones I have, had damage to the case from the scrap yard it came from.
This plastic piece is completely gone. The pins just stand up bare, and I silicone greased the plug and just pushed it down over the pins. Been like that this whole time. One of them has a crack that goes farther down the case.

Then the third one has no cracks in the plastic but the fins are smashed.

They do work though.

1725981223617~2.png
 
Getting closer

My intake bolts need adjusted some though.
The built in washer at the top is too wide to go down in the spot its supposed to.
(Still using the bolts from the original LQ4 truck intake)
I'll get them fixed tonight and the intake bolted down tomorrow.

Also think I figured out a way to hang the exhaust with rubber. More on that when I can start it and drive it to the lift side of the shop.

IMG_20240910_153648963.jpg
 
This is what I had the issue with on the intake bolts.

That head was just a little too big to go down in where it needs to sit on most of them.
The length looks ok though.

BeforeIMG_20240910_205328501.jpgIMG_20240910_205332100.jpg

And what did to try fixing itIMG_20240910_211041850.jpgIMG_20240910_211046900.jpg
Hopefully that is all it needs.
 
I thought about that, then used the bench grinder for the rough in, and the vertical belt sander to smooth it all out and finish. Only took about 10-15 minutes for the whole thing.
Painted them silver when I was done.

IMG_20240911_032914725~2.jpg
 
Before I had a lathe, if I wanted to do something like that I would put the fastener in the drill, and then spin it while I used the belt sander, gave a pretty good result.
 
folkenheath said:
Yes, they kept the term dwell time, because it applies to how long the spark last, just like in an old points system.
Click to expand...
It's how long the coil charges before it fires. It's turning off the current that discharges the energy stored in the coil and makes the spark. So at ignition event time minus dwell period is when the power to the coil starts.
 
Blue85 said:
It's how long the coil charges before it fires. It's turning off the current that discharges the energy stored in the coil and makes the spark. So at ignition event time minus dwell period is when the power to the coil starts.
Click to expand...

Thanks Luke, I guess I worded it wrong, your explanation clarifies why it's a problem when you go above a certain dwell time with those coils. Because if you go above a certain dwell time they fire before they were "supposed" to be ready, which results in advanced ignition timing, which is not good under high load.

The Holley Smart coils don't have that issue, but for the vast majority of builds that doesn't really matter. GM didn't even use the smart coils on the ZZ632 that puts out 1000 HP.
 
That's good information. Perhaps they have an internal current limit or thermal protection that is crossed when you try to dwell too long. Otherwise, all else being equal, longer dwell = more spark current, up to the point where the coil is saturating. I don't see why the stock dwell wouldn't be adequate unless you were getting up in boost.
 
folkenheath said:
Before I had a lathe, if I wanted to do something like that I would put the fastener in the drill, and then spin it while I used the belt sander, gave a pretty good result.
Click to expand...
I've done that a bunch:waytogo:
I was actually thinking about doing it with these, but they have this number at the bottom .

It possibly would have cleared the jaws at the top, but I tried one the way I did it and it went quick, so I just kept going.

IMG_20240911_133448586.jpg
 
I'm going to try and bolt a piece of angle iron to the top lip of my frame and hang these from it for the front part of the exhaust.
IMG_20240911_141953169.jpg
The rear has enough room that I can come up with something easy enough back there.

The exhaust is short enough that 2 points on each side should be more than enough.

I really don't like the slip on pipe clamps I'm using.
So at some point I may have to get a set of ball and socket joints welded onto my headers or something. These things leak and don't seem to really hold well.
Screenshot_20240911-164825.png
Unfortunately I'm not set up to weld stainless at home. So it'll be 'buy tools' or 'have some one else do it.'
 
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