CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Open diff will do itAs much rear traction and weight as this thing has/will have..... Maybe I should have stayed dizzle and went with a 12v lol.
Then it'd do fuggin burnouts
The dot you have to go to the fueling table or timing to watch live time, it’s out of that screen when you click online or during logs.
I was just clicking USB link and doing logs that way. When your just USB linked it doesn't do it. You have to actually hit 'download from ECU'. Then it comes up
I was just up playing with it.
I went and bought an identical new air filter. So I could swap a clean one on each oil change.
But given it's size, I may have to rethink my cold air intake box. The current box doesn't allow for a bigger element. And I believe this one is too small for what I'm asking of it.
The identical sized one from Edelbrock claims it's only good to 470hp. And that one has more filter area due to the end cap being filter too.
I think I can modify my air box and get the next bigger one in which has a lot more filter area to it.
This is the one I have
And here's the current box
I was just up playing with it.
I went and bought an identical new air filter. So I could swap a clean one on each oil change.
But given it's size, I may have to rethink my cold air intake box. The current box doesn't allow for a bigger element. And I believe this one is too small for what I'm asking of it.
The identical sized one from Edelbrock claims it's only good to 470hp. And that one has more filter area due to the end cap being filter too.
I think I can modify my air box and get the next bigger one in which has a lot more filter area to it.
This is the one I have
And here's the current box
Have you tested it without an air filter to see if it changes anything like Heath suggested?
Not yet. I have a whole bunch of metal shavings in that fender well from when I opened the fenders air passages up.
I bought the new filter to see if it changes at all since, honestly I've never cleaned the old one lol.
I held it up and looked through it and could see light showing me pink filter all over so figured it was ok.
If I do the no filter thing I'll be open TB with no tube at all.
I bought the new filter to see if it changes at all since, honestly I've never cleaned the old one lol.
I held it up and looked through it and could see light showing me pink filter all over so figured it was ok.
If I do the no filter thing I'll be open TB with no tube at all.
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In this pic you can see that I have room to move the battery tray about 1.25" towards the core support.
I can take my air tube and add another angle at the box end like the one on the TB side. That'll give me the clearance to move that end of the box back towards the battery another 1"-2".
The side towards the coolant catch has about .75" of safe space I could got that way too.
The air filter I've been looking at is about the same diameter as mine, but it's less tapered and has a 9.5" filter area. Which should make it flow nearly 2/3 more than mine does.
I can take my air tube and add another angle at the box end like the one on the TB side. That'll give me the clearance to move that end of the box back towards the battery another 1"-2".
The side towards the coolant catch has about .75" of safe space I could got that way too.
The air filter I've been looking at is about the same diameter as mine, but it's less tapered and has a 9.5" filter area. Which should make it flow nearly 2/3 more than mine does.
New filter didn't change anything.
Still gains vacuum as RPM goes up.
(Blue and red lines)
And I found that I am currently using the 2d table for timing. Whether I was on any of my other logs I don't know lol.
Still gains vacuum as RPM goes up.
(Blue and red lines)
And I found that I am currently using the 2d table for timing. Whether I was on any of my other logs I don't know lol.
Now....
This is what I've always believed about timing.
Forgive my ignorance lol.
'Advancing timing makes power. The more it's advanced the more power you'll get. And the only thing limiting the advance, is ping. So you advance till ping, and back off till it's gone.'
'The only reason you retard timing, is because you advanced too far and it's pinging.'
I feel embarrassed to put that out here... But it's literally what I've believed about timing
All I've ever done with a carbed vehicle is set it to idle spec with a basic light and leave it alone.
Never once checked total timing or any of that.
This is what I've always believed about timing.
Forgive my ignorance lol.
'Advancing timing makes power. The more it's advanced the more power you'll get. And the only thing limiting the advance, is ping. So you advance till ping, and back off till it's gone.'
'The only reason you retard timing, is because you advanced too far and it's pinging.'
I feel embarrassed to put that out here... But it's literally what I've believed about timing
All I've ever done with a carbed vehicle is set it to idle spec with a basic light and leave it alone.
Never once checked total timing or any of that.
That said...
My current timing table.
I idle right in the red circle area.
With my knock sensors on and a sensitivity of 1, it detects random, varying knock at idle.
Driving at any load, cruise, hard pull, etc. it's flat Zero.
But idle, it detects knock.
Could that be cam shake of the engine? Or is 25 too high for that area.
And....
If it's not knocking anywhere else, can I raise it some more in the WOT area, and see what happens?
My current timing table.
I idle right in the red circle area.
With my knock sensors on and a sensitivity of 1, it detects random, varying knock at idle.
Driving at any load, cruise, hard pull, etc. it's flat Zero.
But idle, it detects knock.
Could that be cam shake of the engine? Or is 25 too high for that area.
And....
If it's not knocking anywhere else, can I raise it some more in the WOT area, and see what happens?
Interesting, you have me wanting to look at my tune. I know it needs a little work but it’s close.
You can have too much timing advance. Set off too early the flame front will smack the top of the piston as its coming up and slow it down, harshly.
yeah 
It's very rare to have ping at idle. There is so little load and so little fuel. Knock sensors can pick up things besides ping. It's basically a microphone tuned to a specific frequency. Other noises that have content in that frequency can set it off.
In general, if you suspect ping, there are 4 things you can do:
In general, if you suspect ping, there are 4 things you can do:
- Add octane
- Pull timing in that region
- Add fuel in that region
- Make the engine run cooler and/or get rid of hotspots (clean combustion chamber, run colder plugs, etc.)
There are a few limiting factors to timing'Advancing timing makes power. The more it's advanced the more power you'll get. And the only thing limiting the advance, is ping. So you advance till ping, and back off till it's gone.'
'The only reason you retard timing, is because you advanced too far and it's pinging.'
I feel embarrassed to put that out here... But it's literally what I've believed about timing
All I've ever done with a carbed vehicle is set it to idle spec with a basic light and leave it alone.
Never once checked total timing or any of that.
- It pings. I think we have that covered
- You get past the point of peak torque - i.e. further advancing makes less power
- It's hard to crank the engine over.
Basically, you increase timing until the power stops increasing (or it pings), then back it off just a bit. A street car needs to be more conservative than a race car because it's going to see various ethanol blends and weather. Modern cars do trigger the knock sensors all the time and do a lot of timing adjustment based on that, but that's typically happening outside of the WOT range. You really don't want to ride the knock sensors to set your WOT timing. I can't comment on how effective the Holley system is in turning knock feedback into proper timing, but the OEMs do it with a ton of factors specific to that engine. I would aim for only small blips of a couple degrees occasionally on transients.
It also makes sense to scale knock in your plots so the max is like 10-15 counts/degrees. That way you'll notice some burst knock or whatever. You're never going to detect a knock level of 100 (or you have bigger problems!) and it's never going to retard 50 degrees.
