CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
It would have been better, but there was a lot of cars coming at me in the distance, and one coming around the corner a mile or so behind me.
Plus, I temp mounted the button on my GoPro mount on the column behind the wheel to keep it off the floor. (Total temporary wire job.)
And in my haste stuck my hand through the wheel to hit the button... That didn't work out so well lol
Plus, I temp mounted the button on my GoPro mount on the column behind the wheel to keep it off the floor. (Total temporary wire job.)
And in my haste stuck my hand through the wheel to hit the button... That didn't work out so well lol
I value a time slip from the track way more than a dyno sheet. Just keep in mind it's a heavy tank.One thing I do have to admit......
I REALLY wanted to dyno this for the number sheet, more than tuning it
Getting it dialed in was just a bonus thought lol.
I've seen people take a 700 HP Shafiroff engine and put it in their Chevelle and run 13s after choking it to death.
Time slip is more important than dyno numbers.
It’s been awhile but highlight the selection and right click on it and the option should be there.
I'll have to try that.
I'm trying to think of a good way to do it faster if I'm trying to drive around making changes.
Make a couple pulls in that zone, pull over, change a couple degrees, repeat.
I just don't want to be sitting on the side of the road doing it line by line or something.
And.... I know fuel can't be changed when online.
Can timing? I didn't watch timing when I was online.
I'm trying to think of a good way to do it faster if I'm trying to drive around making changes.
Make a couple pulls in that zone, pull over, change a couple degrees, repeat.
I just don't want to be sitting on the side of the road doing it line by line or something.
And.... I know fuel can't be changed when online.
Can timing? I didn't watch timing when I was online.
Yes, you can "offset".
You can use that to see what it wants, but then I would go back and make it ramp smoother, not a jump and then another jump. If it wants less, ramp it up slower or start lower, or make it all lower, depending on what it wants.
The "offset" will do what you want
The "fill" will ramp it if you select where you want the ramp to start and stop.
You can use that to see what it wants, but then I would go back and make it ramp smoother, not a jump and then another jump. If it wants less, ramp it up slower or start lower, or make it all lower, depending on what it wants.
The "offset" will do what you want
The "fill" will ramp it if you select where you want the ramp to start and stop.
You can change fuel and timing online, live...you just can't change system stuff and things like that.
When I was online the fuel chart was lit, but when I clicked on it once the block didn't turn blue. Just figured I couldn't.
I thought a dude on YT that puts up Terminator tune vids said you couldn't also.
I thought a dude on YT that puts up Terminator tune vids said you couldn't also.
I need to dust off my truck…
Sunday I have planned to drive around and try tuning that dead area. Not sure how much better it can get, but I'll see
I was looking into the acceleration enrichment, and realized that I don't think that's it.
When I punch it it goes, till that spot, then it bogs out a second.
If I'm rolling, and I ease the pedal up, it's still gutless and boggy in that area. So it almost has to be timing or fuel.
I never tried it slowly easing up before I bumped my timing up. But bumping it up, did seem to make the dead spot smaller on a dead stop mash.
I figured I'll go up in that area by 1 degree increments and see how it goes. If it starts to rattle with out improving I'll stop and go the other way.
Can't imagine it'll go from no ping to catastrophic failure in 1 degree.
I was looking into the acceleration enrichment, and realized that I don't think that's it.
When I punch it it goes, till that spot, then it bogs out a second.
If I'm rolling, and I ease the pedal up, it's still gutless and boggy in that area. So it almost has to be timing or fuel.
I never tried it slowly easing up before I bumped my timing up. But bumping it up, did seem to make the dead spot smaller on a dead stop mash.
I figured I'll go up in that area by 1 degree increments and see how it goes. If it starts to rattle with out improving I'll stop and go the other way.
Can't imagine it'll go from no ping to catastrophic failure in 1 degree.
This was from 2019 with a stock 6.0 and a gm computer. It does it better now… here is some motivation for you.
View attachment pav-E4337A62-96C6-447D-A2B1-D20F34DFA198.mp4
View attachment pav-E4337A62-96C6-447D-A2B1-D20F34DFA198.mp4
I was planning on changing my plugs and then driving around tuning tomorrow.
Then I seen the plug heat range thread and decided to look into my plugs.
I still haven't looked at what's actually in it right now. But the ones I bought are AC Delco 41-162.
Which is supposedly the replacement for the 41-110 after NGK quit making their plugs and denso took it over.
I read that the 162 is a denso heat range 14. Which equates to an NGK 4.
But when you cross reference the 110 (supposed to be the same plug) it's equal to an NGK IZTR5B11... Which is a 5.
Not sure if I got bad info, since it's impossible to find an actual AC Delco heat range spec on these things
, and that's what a dude on an LS1tech thread said.
The 162's are an OE replacement for a 2010 Camaro SS with the LS3.
Which has the same bore, heads, and compression I do.
Big differences being aluminum block, they're running a higher thermostat, and I have a bigger cam.
Will those things make a difference for heat range?
I guess I'm going to throw them in and see.
I'll know more about what I need when I get the current ones out and look at them.
I'll pull these and read them after while too.
Then I seen the plug heat range thread and decided to look into my plugs.
I still haven't looked at what's actually in it right now. But the ones I bought are AC Delco 41-162.
Which is supposedly the replacement for the 41-110 after NGK quit making their plugs and denso took it over.
I read that the 162 is a denso heat range 14. Which equates to an NGK 4.
But when you cross reference the 110 (supposed to be the same plug
) it's equal to an NGK IZTR5B11... Which is a 5.Not sure if I got bad info, since it's impossible to find an actual AC Delco heat range spec on these things
, and that's what a dude on an LS1tech thread said.The 162's are an OE replacement for a 2010 Camaro SS with the LS3.
Which has the same bore, heads, and compression I do.
Big differences being aluminum block, they're running a higher thermostat, and I have a bigger cam.
Will those things make a difference for heat range?
I guess I'm going to throw them in and see.
I'll know more about what I need when I get the current ones out and look at them.
I'll pull these and read them after while too.
On a different subject, I went into an old tune and played with OFFSET and stuff.
That looks like exactly what I wanted.
I'll offset the dead some, try, repeat. If I find a spot that it likes, I'll blend from there.
Thinking on the cruise area... Is 40 too high?
Just haven't seen anyone else run that high watching vids and such
That looks like exactly what I wanted.
I'll offset the dead some, try, repeat. If I find a spot that it likes, I'll blend from there.
Thinking on the cruise area... Is 40 too high?
Just haven't seen anyone else run that high watching vids and such
40 for spark to high? Not really but how often is it hitting it?
The Holley has a wide range of composition, I forget the way to lock out the timing so it doesn’t swing.
The Holley has a wide range of composition, I forget the way to lock out the timing so it doesn’t swing.
