CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Fluid that came out, and a few chunks.

Plus a pic that I thought was cool because it's a perfect reflection off the surface before I turned the flash on.

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I've been doing a bunch of vids on how to rebuild the 4l80e and I think I'm going to try it over the winter.
If you have the time, this can cost you hundreds instead of thousands. You also know exactly what parts are in it, what all the tolerances are, etc. Just prep a space to lay all the parts out in order and keep it all clean. If you have a parts washer, that will come in very handy. There are a lot of special tools, but if you read, ask and apply some creativity, you'll probably end up needing only a few. Some things make sense to buy. For example, a pump assembly may not cost more than getting the parts to piece a good one together.
 
Reminds me of my pinion nut removal fixture. You know, where wood shop meets auto shop.

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(Actually, I think this was the version the impact blew apart, so I build it a lot heavier)
 
Transmission is swapped out.

I have to hook up the cooler lines, put the driveshaft back in, and fill it with fluid.

Anybody see any problem with putting a fuel filter in the cooler return line?
Or would it just blow it out?
I have an old diesel filter I was going to put before the cooler after I get a new trans and cooler.
But for now I'd like to put it in the return line and just keep the current cooler.
 
There is purpose made trans line filter for picking up any debris missed with bew trans swap. Is temporary you need to remove @ 3-5k
 
Just dawned on me that the filter mount I have is a remote oil filter mount, that they were using spin on diesel filters with. So I can just pick an oil filter that fits it and run with it. Any good oil filter should work on transmission fluid.

Just need a good place to mount it. :thinking:


By the way, my lift cradle deal worked fricken amazing.:thumb:. When it went back in all I did was put it up where it went, check face to face alignment, and push it onto the pins.
Threaded the bolts right in and pulled it down smoothly.

That'll get unbolted from the table and put in the attic for safe keeping.
 
So, I'm wondering..... How does the converter get fluid into it, when it's running? And how does that fluid get back out?

How could it get out, and NOT back in?

When it put this together, I poured fluid in, let it sit for a while, tipped it up so the extra ran out, then put it on.


When I pulled it off, no fluid came out. :dunno:
I laid it on its back, and looked down in.
This was taken a few minutes later.
(Ignore the hair. lol )

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Those splines at the bottom ARE the splines at the bottom, not a reflection of the upper ones.
 
The big splines are to hold the stator and the small splines for the turbine output. There are actually 3 passages for oil. The center-most one is activating the TCC.
 
It's not pretty, but it was mostly stuff I had around.
Except a few fittings.
And it all gets replaced when I get the trans redone again. So, :dunno: whatever. Lol.

Still gotta look up numbers tonight and find an oil filter that fits the mount.

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Ran into one issue today though.


I thought I'd be able to get the transmission dipstick tube back in after it was installed.

I was wrong :doah:

Whoops lol .
So I ordered a cheap flex tube style from Amazon.

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The dipstick tube and fill it is all that's left at this point.
Edit .. and one short piece of exhaust to put back in lol.

We'll have to see how well it works. :dunno:

Worked decent with the first LS version....
This one's a few steps up though lol.
 
I made my dipstick tube fit after I had the trans installed. Factory hard line one. What a pain in the ass that was. And it’ll leak if I let the truck sit to long. I hate that thing.
 
I get the feeling whatever it was was in that trans.
Messed up part is, it all worked fine with the old engine.
Shifted hard yeah, but worked good still.
 
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