CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Well, it backed out of the shop under its own power.
With no grindy chunka sounds..... That's a start lol.
IMG_20250813_160633633.jpg
Got the new dipstick in, after fabbing a bracket to hold it.IMG_20250813_160508540_HDR.jpg
And it SUCKS to fill.
It comes with this little funnel adapter, which of course leaks a little around it because it's not a close enough machined fit to the tube.IMG_20250813_160556581.jpg
And I buy fluid in a 5 gallon pail, and pour it in with this. IMG_20250813_161014112.jpg
Which is near impossible now that I have to hold the funnel too.

Old dipstick goes back in when the trans gets swapped for sure lol.
 
Turns out the new dipstick is a Screenshot_20250813-163320~2.jpgScreenshot_20250813-163345~2.jpg
To read also lol.
I've put about 7 qts in so far. And I do see red on the stick, but I can't tell if it's new fluid level, or crap from the side from sliding it in. :doah:
I'm assuming it's gonna need more.
 
I didn't put it in when I put the trans up in the hole.
And now the way it's formed, it hits body and engine.
So no matter which way I try to get the tube in, it won't go.
I wasn't about to take it back out to put the old dipstick tube in lol.

This one will do until the next go round.
I can't image this trans will live long as is :dunno:
For all I know it's got 400+k on it lol.
Dude said it was replaced at 300k, but had paperwork for everything BUT that.
Like even the receipts from getting it detailed since new.... But no proof of the trans.

Even if it was, it's still a rebuilt trans with 150ish K on it since lol.
 
loosen the trans mount, and jack up the tail shaft. This tilts the engine/trans, might give you enough angle to get the tube in.
 
Nah. Done with it for now lol.
I technically/medically, shouldn't have swapped the trans.
I just couldn't keep my hands off of it.
I just drove it home. Haven't gotten on it hard.
But no shudder. All seems good.
 
Given it's stock, and hasn't had any pressure mods done, I left the pressure duty cycles alone.
All seems fine. :dunno:
It shifts solid and not overly intense. And it's got great manners around town.

I did one half pedal pull just to see, and I think it'd be fine to push it farther.

Only things I worry about leaving pressures up is being stock, I could push out seals or dislodge the thin snap rings.. that's stuff people say I'm videos anyway. No idea if that's a thing.

1-2 is 5-10% (can't remember) till like 40% pedal. Then goes to 0%
2-3 and 3-4 are just 0% across the board.
 
I would leave it up, if its not shifting too harsh you aren't hurting anything.

I drove mine for ~9 years without a computer hooked up, meaning it was 100% pressure 100% of the time. It's still going another ~9 years later with the computer running it. I have it at 70% pressure (30% duty cycle) and ramp it up to 100% by 30% TPS.

Is the shudder gone?

The stockish converter might hurt the bottom end quite a bit.

Make sure that cheap dipstick is actually setting the correct level, the fluid should be level with the top of the pan when full.
 
I checked the level thing, and it looks correct.
Yes the shudder thing is gone.

And you built yours before turning the pressure all the way up. Didn't you?
That comes with the thicker snap rings to hold the pressures, usually.
Plus did you do the passage drilling that allows pressure to get away from the seals?
That's the things I'm worried about.

Other thing is I seem to remember it shifting harder than this before the last trans swap, using more like your pressure setting, and that trans just made it all the harder.

So it bugs me that it shifts pretty much like a stock trans now
 
Yes I built mine, however, you can't turn it up with the computer higher than the stock pressure spring can output, so it's not like you can turn it up higher than it already goes to itself, you are just doing it more often. Which is less likely to fail than the clutches at low pressure with higher HP. I would definitely take full factory pressure vs lower pressure as less risk of failure.
 
Well, a couple of good 0-80 pulls and all is good.

All except the rev limiter kicking in at 6200 still.
 
No idea. Limiter is set at 6900 or 7100. Can't remember where I left it, but ion the log you can see it kick in at around 6200-6300.
I can feel it and hear it when it does.

No idea why
 
I gotta figure out how to get back into the Holley forums, and post my ZIP folder with the tune and log.

Forgot my password and chit for it lol.
 
Reading through other peoples stuff on there I seen that the "SPARK, HIGH ONLY" limiter I'm using is supposed to have a 20-50 rpm lead in to the limit, where as the "SOFT" one, has like 200-400.
I'm at like 600rpm lead in.
 
Catching up and chuckled at the dipstick brand(Hahaha), and how it turned out to be a pita…

+1 for china lol
 
I think it's not too bad.
I figured out that if it's off you can clearly see the fluid on the stick.
Which it should be way high, so that's a for sure it's on there.
When it's running it all looks wet, and tinged red.
So I'm thinking it's just way low still and I'll get there.

Didn't figure that out till AFTER my 0-80 rips :whistle:

All shifted good so:dunno:

Decided I want to add a trans line pressure gauge for the next trans.
I'm gonna treat this one like a stolen mule and just see how it goes lol.
Except for the converter being a couple hundred rpm lower, so far I like this trans WAY better.
 
Just buy a 500 psi pressure sensor for the Holley and you can see it in a dash or the logs.
 
I did a data log and found that The stock converter is all in at 2800.
It's a 2400-2600 in stock application.
So it's only 200 rpm less than the custom was. Which isn't enough to make a huge difference.
Red line above cursorIMG_20250815_154447555_HDR.jpg

And that blue line in this pic is the main rev limit turning on at 6414 rpm. 500 rpm early.
IMG_20250815_154709722_HDR.jpg
You can also see here that the rpm (red line), starts flattening out and wavering just before the limit officially turns on.Screenshot_20250815-160400.png
 
Top Bottom