CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
I haven't taken apart the one with the messed up springs to look at those clutches yet.

I'm still trying to figure out how that happened lol.

I thought there was only 1 one way in it...and the one I found looks good in that pic.
I know some of the metal came from the carrier thing that's attached to the bottom of those round springs, but there's a lot more than what I can see missing of that.

I planned to take him that whole unit, and see what he says, and also that darker clutch pack, and see if he thinks that's burnt.

So far, everything thing else looks pretty good in there :dunno:

Oh, and @folkenheath , it had 7 check balls. I believe that's all it should have right? So the 1-2 one should be in there. You wondered about that.

Lastly,
Every high HP build I've seen on these they dual feed the direct clutch (the one with the springs broke I believe).
This one has Not been done.
 
The outer snap ring is not in place on that clutch pack with the springs messed up. It's out of the groove, which is not right.

There is also rubbing on the spring collar, but that may have happened after the failure, hard to tell. It appears the snap ring under the spring collar is still in place.

But with the snap ring out that holds the clutch pressure back all sorts of bad stuff can happen. Either it was never in all the way and came out or it's the wrong snap ring.

There is another one way roller clutch in the OD unit. There is also a one way sprag in on the direct drum. If that rolls over it basically skips 2nd gear.

There are actually 8 check balls, but he may have just enlarged the holes too far in the orifices if the 1-2 check ball is there.

EDIT:

I would replace the pump pressure assembly and spring with one from Transtec or Transgo since you don't know what he actually used that caused you to have to turn the pressure down at WOT originally.

I would also replace the separator plate if he drilled the holes out too big.

Also, dual feed the directs, and rollerize the output.

For your build the simplest thing to do would be to just buy the Transgo reprogramming kit and use the springs and valves and plate from that. But dual feed the directs instead of using that sandwich plate they supply for if you don't have the trans apart.

I wouldn't trust that direct clutch spring collar, replace it, it may have been bent from the clutch pressure when the other snap ring not in place.
 
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That snap ring looks like it is in place, but it has been spinning in place.

And that whole spring collar deal is one piece from every thing I've seen. That top part with the holes is bent anyway. So it definitely needs replaced.

Good part is I can now take it apart without special tools lol.


The few vids I've seen that talked about the check balls said 7 I thought:dunno: .
And I found 7.

IMG_20250825_184551799_HDR~2.jpg
 
Just watched the one vid again and did hear 8 check balls.
He doesn't do a good job of showing where they go though
 
Since you are rebuilding it I suggest you purchase a copy of this, it answers a lot of questions on how things work, what things are called and what order they are assembled...


Here is one page...

1000003183.jpg
 
I am attaching some documents I saved over the years that are of use to you right now...
 

Attachments

  • 4L80E Transtec.pdf
    1.3 MB · Views: 3
  • checkballs.pdf
    1.4 MB · Views: 2
The darker set of clutches looks kinda burnished on the surface. There a few small heat spots on the steels. Not sure how those springs came out like that unless maybe a snap ring came loose..?
 
Just ordered 2 books.
The one mentioned, which I had planned on, plus the workbench series one.
I like their books and have the LS and 4.0 jeep ones already .
 
I think it had WAY too much pressure in it under the piston
 
Also, this piston was cocked in the bore, and I had to tap on it on one side to get it out....?

IMG_20250825_191839339_HDR.jpg
 
Not sure how important or non-important that is.
 
Since you are rebuilding it I suggest you purchase a copy of this, it answers a lot of questions on how things work, what things are called and what order they are assembled...


Here is one page...

View attachment 511126
That's the book I have
 
The piston is angled on purpose, that's normal, you will see it in the bore under it.
 
I took some more stuff apart, and yeah, she's got issues :doah: IMG_20250826_180100397.jpg
Snap ring was in good though.

Now, the clutches and steels in that pack, got hot...

IMG_20250826_180302520.jpg

IMG_20250826_180342905.jpg

IMG_20250826_180338696.jpg

IMG_20250826_180308961.jpg
 
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