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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
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Yeah the band in 1st might just be engine braking, as its only applied in 1st gear in D1 position.

Does it have 4th gear? Could be solenoid A, its only on in 1st, Reverse, and 4th gear....

But that doesn't sound right either, because I know if you unhook all electronics, Reverse and 2nd gear will still work....

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Looks like I forgot to add pics of my new dome lights.
I've been dealing with only the floor/door lights for a LONG time. So I decided to add some strip lights in the front area so I can see something if I need to.
I think these will do :thumb:

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I'm going to try and tackle the reverse pin extender today. See if I can make it drivable.
Should be getting a call about the new transmission any day now.
(Still won't be going in until it's parked for the year anyway)
I think I'll probably pull this trans apart after I get it out and just do the clutches and seals to have it as a backup. Not gonna worry about a whole hog rebuild with it being the older design.
Change the bands/clutches, the seals to the outside, whatever ones I have to play with to get to the clutches, and set it on a roller cart shoved into the inaccessible reaches under something in a back corner until further notice.
 
Hopeful plans for the winter beyond the trans swap.... Pluck at what I can, and see what I have time for. :dunno:

1. Change front springs out, putting stock diesel springs back in, and cutting them to the height I want. (1" higher.)
They will also add spring rate. Because right now even with coil sprung load helper shocks the front feels like it's on under inflated air bags. Soft as F*** and bouncy

2. Change rear driver's door so no more dent.

3. Replace lower rear quarters behind the wheels, And the little fang area right in front of them.
Maybe the rockers too. Though I may wait on those.
4. Modify new front fenders to clear tire better and install them.

5. Deal with old roof rack mounts in some way. Probably grinding them all out and filling them as Brian (@beags86) had tried talking me into before. Lol . I think I came up with a good plan on how I could do it without causing bass rattles due to not being able to retrieve some of them when they fall into unreachable places.:waytogo:


6. Remove all side moldings and prep for paint in the spring :woot:

7.....? And MAYBE, if there's time in-between where I'm waiting on chit or anything, I may start on the center console. Which will have a place in it to hold a bottle in case I ever decide to spray it.


Most of these beyond the roof, and center console shouldn't take THAT much time. But winter is also my OT season, so :dunno:. Who knows how much time I'll get really.
 
Well. The pin was definitely out of speck.
Like, they want about .080" at the point you measure.... I have .368" :whistle: :doah:

Somehow I don't think the .020 extension I bought is gonna do it lol.

Plus, this is ugly

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I put the pin extension in anyway. Figured MAW :dunno:
I'm not putting it back together until I get my new LUBE LOCKER pan gasket though.
Done playing with rubber and silicone.
Supposed to be here tomorrow.Screenshot_20251104-100005.png
 
Been wanting the 14bolt one for a while. Still haven't gotten that one yet.
 
They honestly work better than RTV for rock crawling, one hit on a rock and it squishes the RTV out and leaks. With the lube locker you can just retorque the bolts and it will usually seal back up.
 
I cant get it to seal on my 14b to save my life, but someone also broke a bolt off on the bottom and had to oversize it...
 
I'm not even rock crawling, but I can't get either one of my 14b's to not leak.
Even got the new sealant specifically for diff covers.
Bottom edge is always wet .
Seems to be no more than a wetness and maybe an occasional drip. Never seems to be. Spots where I park. It's just always wet and greasy on the lower edge. :dunno:
Though pinion seal, but seems dry up around that.

With the transmission one, I HOPE not to have to worry about taking the pan off much after the new trans. But since I've had the pan off and back on a 4l80E about 7-8 times in the past 18 months... I figured MAW get a better gasket solution lol.
 
Got the gasket today, but not in time to put the pan back on and try it.
Probably try it tomorrow night or so.
Kind of hoping my steel pan with dimpled up bolt flange, won't mess up the lube locker. :dunno:

If nothing else maybe the pin extension will make it drive enough to swap bays to get it on the lift lol.
 
shady said:
Got the gasket today, but not in time to put the pan back on and try it.
Probably try it tomorrow night or so.
Kind of hoping my steel pan with dimpled up bolt flange, won't mess up the lube locker. :dunno:

If nothing else maybe the pin extension will make it drive enough to swap bays to get it on the lift lol.
Click to expand...
I always use a ball peen hammer and flip the dimples in the bolt holes out before I put the pan on
 
I was thinking about banging them out. I'm surprised they dimpled because that's one thing I actually torque is the pan bolts lol.
 
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