CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Automotive paint supply stores.
Use the primer sparingly, like just a heavy mist coat. The thicker it is, the tougher to get a clean weld. I used it on the Maiden frame inside and some outside areas for the cage tie ins.
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Found weld through primer at O'Reilly's...
It's not out front. You have to ask for it.
First time I did, dude didn't know what it was and said he didn't have it. Second time I showed him a screenshot and he went right to it lol.
Given that all I want it for is the actual spot weld flanges, I may have over bought a little when I got the case of 6 Seymour cans
I had originally pictured spraying the entire inner side of all the panels .
Then realized I can use normal high temp for anything semi close to the weld, and only need the weld through for the actual weld area. Whoops lol.
Anyway, passenger rear inner is done
Didn't see any reason to grind it smooth and make it pretty, so just hit it lightly and primed it
I welded it a little fast, sort of on purpose, and made it oil can. Then tried using the home made planishing hammer from the scaler on it. It didn't do to bad, And definitely stiffened the panel up.
You can still pop it in or out, but it's much harder to do.
And it's not really a deep one so it's hard to see either way.
Then I switched out to the corner piece that needed modified.
It's ugly as sin, but will get seam sealer smeared all down in it.
Definitely not proud of this piece, but it'll do its job and fits well.
The other side I'm going to try a different method on. I don't like this one.
But it fits and I'm using it lol.
It's not out front. You have to ask for it.
First time I did, dude didn't know what it was and said he didn't have it. Second time I showed him a screenshot and he went right to it lol.
Given that all I want it for is the actual spot weld flanges, I may have over bought a little when I got the case of 6 Seymour cans
I had originally pictured spraying the entire inner side of all the panels .
Then realized I can use normal high temp for anything semi close to the weld, and only need the weld through for the actual weld area. Whoops lol.
Anyway, passenger rear inner is done
Didn't see any reason to grind it smooth and make it pretty, so just hit it lightly and primed it
I welded it a little fast, sort of on purpose, and made it oil can. Then tried using the home made planishing hammer from the scaler on it. It didn't do to bad, And definitely stiffened the panel up.
You can still pop it in or out, but it's much harder to do.
And it's not really a deep one so it's hard to see either way.
Then I switched out to the corner piece that needed modified.
It's ugly as sin, but will get seam sealer smeared all down in it.
Definitely not proud of this piece, but it'll do its job and fits well.
The other side I'm going to try a different method on. I don't like this one.
But it fits and I'm using it lol.
Inner is all coated with good primer and paint. Red because I had it and figured Rust-Oleum professional was fine for the inside of both panels.
Everything visible after will be undercoated anyway.
Tacking has begun, but I start 13hr nights, 7 days a week, from here till 'to be determined ', as of Saturday night.
At a minimum of 3 weeks.
So I'll see what I get done in there. May go fast AF, may be a day or 2 I do not even come up.
Everything visible after will be undercoated anyway.
Tacking has begun, but I start 13hr nights, 7 days a week, from here till 'to be determined ', as of Saturday night.
At a minimum of 3 weeks.
So I'll see what I get done in there. May go fast AF, may be a day or 2 I do not even come up.
Forgot the pics.
Also while I was waiting on welds to cool, I moved over to ding fixing.
It was much more complete when the night was done than this pic lol.
Think I have all the dings on this side done.
Also while I was waiting on welds to cool, I moved over to ding fixing.
It was much more complete when the night was done than this pic lol.
Think I have all the dings on this side done.
Sanded the weld today.
Most of it looked like this, with just the top edge of the weld visible. Which I left .
I could have put a light skim of glazing putty over that and sanded it. But wanted to play with filler lol.
So I slathered it on, and sanded it down.
Most of it will come back off. But it's interesting experience.
Most of it looked like this, with just the top edge of the weld visible. Which I left .
I could have put a light skim of glazing putty over that and sanded it. But wanted to play with filler lol.
So I slathered it on, and sanded it down.
Most of it will come back off. But it's interesting experience.
Is it possible to not get that weld pit? I thought about putting a little filler on my floor but a few layers of primer I can fix that.
I could have ground it out, but I think the body line would have had a dip in the middle of the roll.
I lap welded that seam instead of butt welding.
I'm fairly positive high build sandable primer would have filled and smoothed it.
But I wanted to play with the bondo lol.
I lap welded that seam instead of butt welding.
I'm fairly positive high build sandable primer would have filled and smoothed it.
But I wanted to play with the bondo lol.
I have turned the welder down and filled those under cuts. Then grind again. What you did is perfectly fine for what you are doing.
It would have been a lot easier from the start with .023. Did you do that with.035?
.030.
In order to do .023 I have to change the drive wheels for my welder and it didn't come with them.
I found them, and the tips, just haven't bought them yet. I'd like to get them and a 2lb roll of the wire before I do the other side. Just to see the difference.
I was going to just make patch panels out of the lower rear corners of my front fenders for this spot on each side.
But just said fug it and ordered the repair panels from LMC last night.
Today, Instead of sanding, I put transmission fluid in it, hooked up the grounds and rest of the electrical, and started it.
I watched a vid from Jake's performance transmission about filling them properly. So I'm going through their procedure.
I'd post the vid if I could find it again
In order to do .023 I have to change the drive wheels for my welder and it didn't come with them.
I found them, and the tips, just haven't bought them yet. I'd like to get them and a 2lb roll of the wire before I do the other side. Just to see the difference.
I was going to just make patch panels out of the lower rear corners of my front fenders for this spot on each side.
But just said fug it and ordered the repair panels from LMC last night.
Today, Instead of sanding, I put transmission fluid in it, hooked up the grounds and rest of the electrical, and started it.
I watched a vid from Jake's performance transmission about filling them properly. So I'm going through their procedure.
I'd post the vid if I could find it again
If you make a flange on the inner portion of the sheet metal, about the same thickness as the material, your weld can move inboard a tick and requires less grinding.
Lap welds are easier than butt, and the back-side of a butt weld is really hard to clean up after MIG, so I agree with that method.
Lap welds are easier than butt, and the back-side of a butt weld is really hard to clean up after MIG, so I agree with that method.
If I'd have done the seam farther away from that body line I'd have probably bought the flange tool.
Had it in my hand at HF the other day.i chose that spot as my seam point because I knew after sanding my weld, I could keep more of the weld for strength, and get it to round over matching that body line pretty easy.
I might cut a plywood block the shape of that roll, and glue a piece of 320 to it as a final shape sander. That should help it stay consistent.
Not sure if it'll be needed though.
Had it in my hand at HF the other day.i chose that spot as my seam point because I knew after sanding my weld, I could keep more of the weld for strength, and get it to round over matching that body line pretty easy.
I might cut a plywood block the shape of that roll, and glue a piece of 320 to it as a final shape sander. That should help it stay consistent.
Not sure if it'll be needed though.
