Spray it with wax remover when you think you are ready for paint. It will show almost everything.
CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
So far I've eliminated three, what I'd call decent small dents. 3/8-1/2" deep . About a dozen small dings, like door ding size. And I've located and sanded to metal a whole bunch of paint nicks that I was surprised to find rust under.
The ittiest little nick, and there'd be a 1/8-1/4 round spot of rust forming underneath that hadn't bubbled yet.
So after the first one I found, I've sanded all of em to metal, and built back to flat with the primer.
I found that a drywall sander makes a pretty nice block sander. The foam on bottom is stiff enough to basically act as solid.
Next check I'm ordering a long skinny one that has a vac attachment though.
Driver's door is done, passenger door is done, passenger rear door top side is done, drivers rear door I have to find a replacement, front fenders are done of course. And I'm ordering a new hood soon.
The ittiest little nick, and there'd be a 1/8-1/4 round spot of rust forming underneath that hadn't bubbled yet.
So after the first one I found, I've sanded all of em to metal, and built back to flat with the primer.
I found that a drywall sander makes a pretty nice block sander. The foam on bottom is stiff enough to basically act as solid.
Next check I'm ordering a long skinny one that has a vac attachment though.
Driver's door is done, passenger door is done, passenger rear door top side is done, drivers rear door I have to find a replacement, front fenders are done of course. And I'm ordering a new hood soon.
I know the bare metal primer ran some, and the filler in the wheel arch wasn't set enough to sand properly, but I wanted to get primer on before I left lol.
Has some pin holes, and a little sanding to do. But I figured already that it's going to go through at least 3 layers of high build primer and sanding. So I'm not worried at the moment lol.
Has some pin holes, and a little sanding to do. But I figured already that it's going to go through at least 3 layers of high build primer and sanding. So I'm not worried at the moment lol.
Nothing interesting to update.. just a couple layers of high build.
But...
I have a very debatable question that I'm getting hung up on. Hear me out.
So, when you check the level of the trans, you check it running, so all the lines, converter, passages, and such are all full at that point.
Now. I have a 7 qt oil pan. And I could dump 7qts in, and call it good technically.
But, that 7 qts is supposed to be available for the engine if you go by the 1qt per 1000rpm rule.
And normally would be with a normal style pan and filter setup.
I have 8' of -10AN line running up to a high mounted oil filter, and another 3' between that and a large oil cooler. All of which are higher than 95% of the pan depth.
So if I check it engine off, after it's been sitting for a while, and set the level there.....
In theory, when it's running, I'll be full qt or 2 lower just filling my lines and cooler. Possibly not leaving enough in the pan for a high rpm burst of the throttle.
Filter doesn't matter because it's mounted hoses up so it will just hold all its fluid.
Am I on to a logical thing, or way off base here?
Plus, I don't know if it's because they had me breaking it in on mobil 1 15W-50, or what,... But it's still and oil burning beatch.
But...
I have a very debatable question that I'm getting hung up on. Hear me out.
So, when you check the level of the trans, you check it running, so all the lines, converter, passages, and such are all full at that point.
Now. I have a 7 qt oil pan. And I could dump 7qts in, and call it good technically.
But, that 7 qts is supposed to be available for the engine if you go by the 1qt per 1000rpm rule.
And normally would be with a normal style pan and filter setup.
I have 8' of -10AN line running up to a high mounted oil filter, and another 3' between that and a large oil cooler. All of which are higher than 95% of the pan depth.
So if I check it engine off, after it's been sitting for a while, and set the level there.....
In theory, when it's running, I'll be full qt or 2 lower just filling my lines and cooler. Possibly not leaving enough in the pan for a high rpm burst of the throttle.
Filter doesn't matter because it's mounted hoses up so it will just hold all its fluid.
Am I on to a logical thing, or way off base here?
Plus, I don't know if it's because they had me breaking it in on mobil 1 15W-50, or what,... But it's still and oil burning beatch.
I know I can't check it running.
But I'm pretty sure adding an extra it isn't a good idea either. Lol.
As is I'm going to run it and set the level the same as always. And I'll keep a close eye on the data logs to see what my oil pressure does.
If it starts falling after a long hard pull, I'll have to add oil I guess
But I'm pretty sure adding an extra it isn't a good idea either. Lol.
As is I'm going to run it and set the level the same as always. And I'll keep a close eye on the data logs to see what my oil pressure does.
If it starts falling after a long hard pull, I'll have to add oil I guess
It depends on the pickup also. The depth is based on the crank depth into the own. The level should be the same from the crank down.
I’ve always checked engine oil with the engine at idle. Never had an issue.
Dump in 7qts. Start engine. Check fluid level. Add as needed.
Dump in 7qts. Start engine. Check fluid level. Add as needed.
Googling it I have actually found other posts and things saying to add the volume of your cooler, couple people tried calculating line volume, etc.
Even being a 7qt pan, it's always shown correct on my stick at 6-6.5. I've never put the stick in and checked it without the pan on., so really, I have no idea of correct level/volume.
It was a stock replacement so I just always trusted it's reading.
Think I'm going to put 7 in it and see what happens.
If it starts looking like it's getting sloshed and chit, formed up... I'll drop a half a at or something lol
Even being a 7qt pan, it's always shown correct on my stick at 6-6.5. I've never put the stick in and checked it without the pan on., so really, I have no idea of correct level/volume.
It was a stock replacement so I just always trusted it's reading.
Think I'm going to put 7 in it and see what happens.
If it starts looking like it's getting sloshed and chit, formed up... I'll drop a half a at or something lol
Yeah its a balance, because it can't be too low to runout at high RPM, yet it can't be too high to froth up during low RPM and startup.
This is where high capacity pans help with extra capacity without extra height, and at high RPM when a lot of the oil is pumped up top and needs time to drain back down it has extra to pump up there before it runs out, without extra oil height into the crankshaft, and why they go to dry sump on high end builds. The external dry sump can be as big as you want, and the vacuum the dry sump creates in the crankcase helps release extra power from less windage. But they are expensive more of a PITA to change the oil too.
This is where high capacity pans help with extra capacity without extra height, and at high RPM when a lot of the oil is pumped up top and needs time to drain back down it has extra to pump up there before it runs out, without extra oil height into the crankshaft, and why they go to dry sump on high end builds. The external dry sump can be as big as you want, and the vacuum the dry sump creates in the crankcase helps release extra power from less windage. But they are expensive more of a PITA to change the oil too.
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I cut into the back corner of the rocker/front of wheel arch.
Not happy with what I found even though I expected as much.
Looks like I'll be replacing a significant amount of the inner rocker along with most of the rocker.
That will be a much bigger and more intense job than I had anticipated.
But what do ya do at this point lol.
Worst part is, I can't find the inner rocker for this. So I'll have to make one, (which I'll probably do), or buy a couple pickup ones, and join them.
1 may even be enough.
Not happy with what I found even though I expected as much.
Looks like I'll be replacing a significant amount of the inner rocker along with most of the rocker.
That will be a much bigger and more intense job than I had anticipated.
But what do ya do at this point lol.
Worst part is, I can't find the inner rocker for this. So I'll have to make one, (which I'll probably do), or buy a couple pickup ones, and join them.
1 may even be enough.
As for the oil... I think a lot of what went into the lines/cooler actually stayed there.
I had poured 5 qts in before I started it to circulate the transmission fluid.
Last night I topped off the oil and it took 2.5 more qts to get where it usually sits on the stick.
Which was always 6.5 total before.
I had poured 5 qts in before I started it to circulate the transmission fluid.
Last night I topped off the oil and it took 2.5 more qts to get where it usually sits on the stick.
Which was always 6.5 total before.
I cut off the transition piece between the wheel well lip, and inner rocker.
And decided to make a wood block to use as a hammer form this time.
Wanted to try it .
Got it all formed, which took a LOT of hammering, and one cut. But it was fun
Didn't come out too bad for a first try at this method lol.
Not pretty, but I'm more proud of it than the one I welded out of 4 pieces.
And decided to make a wood block to use as a hammer form this time.
Wanted to try it
.Got it all formed, which took a LOT of hammering, and one cut. But it was fun
Didn't come out too bad for a first try at this method lol.
Not pretty, but I'm more proud of it than the one I welded out of 4 pieces.
I can't put that piece in, until I deal with the inner rocker. 
Which won't be that hard.
And I think it's going to look good when it's done
I do have to tweak the lower left corner of that ner outer panel up a bit when it's time to install though.
Which won't be that hard.
And I think it's going to look good when it's done
I do have to tweak the lower left corner of that ner outer panel up a bit when it's time to install though.
Will not matter.
Welcome to my everyday life.I was digging through my weld cart for my tiny clamps and seen those. Glad I couldn't find the clamps. Lol. Which I never did find
