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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
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I can't smell gas anywhere around it actually.
But I'm still scared of, you know, blowing my face off lol.
It's not a pretty face, but it's mine, man....

I'm actually liking the positive pressure idea.
I'm going to stick a 1/4 poly air line under the door where that finger indent is, and tape the bottom.
Then run a constant 5-10 into that space.
Which will purge fumes, AND cool sparks before they could get in, even if they could. :thinking:

90% of what I'll be doing will be on that outer part of the fender.
 
If possible, take the cap off and duct tape over the opening and vent…done!
 
ktmoutfront said:
Fill the tank full of water.:D
Click to expand...
We did that to weld the tank itself but welding close we never worried that much, we were crazy obviously but never had a problem, and I am talking about a body shop that was doing this 6 days a week for years.
 
It's really not that hard to pull the tank. Done it a few times now. I debated just doing that, and being done with it.
Problem then, is where to put the tank while it's out.
 
Open the back doors and set it inside? On the roof?
 
I don't think there's any problem plugging the fill and vent temporarily. After heating or cooling the shop, the pressure will change, so now and then you'd have to open it up, but for 10 minutes of welding or whatever, it should be fine. I would not run gas fumes to anything with a brush motor, or even an unsealed power switch. To a certain extent, the shield gas is pushing gas fumes away. It also wouldn't hurt to attach the ground further away from the tank, as you can get a spark there when you start.
 
Shop stays at about 60-65 all the time, so shouldn't be much temp swing to cause venting.
I have all the gas cans in the room at the back of the shop, so if I pulled the tank I think it'd be fine in there. I'd just definitely have to plug it good to go in there.
Reason pulling it and storing it bugs me is it'll be out for days. That room back there is mostly closed up. And I still can't smell the gas cans, but a tank... :dunno:

I was thinking about it, and I've been chucking sparks from the grinder towards that filler door for a while now, since the welding table has been sitting right by that corner of the burb for most of this process lol.
Think I'll do the purge air under the door and call it good.

Thinking about this also reminds me that this tank has vents built into the top of it that are plumbed over to a Tee at the frame and plugged off. I was always planning to run a vent line to the air filter box under the hood . With a solenoid of some kind that closes when it's not running.
 
The inner rocker is actually taking a disheartening toll on my enthusiasm for this body work chit :doah: .
Can't seem to get away from the cut of disc crap and sparks.
Sides were easy, but the inners suck lol.
Still plodding along in a HR or two a day I get. Which is also what's draining on me.

But.... I have the front inner, half made, and layed out for cuts. Gotta drill the holes and put the drains in. Then cut the old one the rest of the way out.
That's actually the easy, albeit chitty, part.

I started lining up the outer rocker to get ready for that, and found a problem.
I had held the new outer up over the old one, and it got all snug and perfect. Traced around it. And now that it's all cut out, apparently this part in the middle moved. It's out farther than it should be and is now making the rocker not fit when I try to hold it up in place.:angry1::frownIMG_20260225_161523309_HDR~3.jpg
And given it's proximity to the actual door, and that odd divot for door clearance, I'll have to remove the door to actually weld it all on and form the divot correctly.IMG_20260225_161537421_MP~2.jpg
 
Also, bought a couple pieces to fix the back doors.
I should be able to cut enough out of these to fix both doorsIMG_20260225_161742519_HDR.jpgIMG_20260225_161750060_MP.jpgIMG_20260225_161833790.jpgIMG_20260225_161821370.jpg
 
Friday day, I have all day for shop time.
I'm going to be tired, and dragging azz, but I'll have all day.
Saturday morning I go back to my normal schedule, which will give me real days off that I can get chit done. Like next Tuesday. I can work from 7am-6pm or later.
Hopefully that will kickstart the progress some lol.

Goal is shooting for paint in late April early may.
I have a lot of ground to cover lol.
 
This is why I store everything but my daily driver for winter!
Good luck Rick
 
I started this body stuff thinking I had all winter to do it. Then one shift guy got assaulted on new years and still can't return to work, and another one retired. Leaving only 2 of us to cover the plant 24/7.
I went to straight nights 6 13hr nights a week, and the other dude covers days.
They finally threw another dude at us in the retired guys spot.
And HOPEFULLY the 4th will be back the 20th of March or so.
 
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Used some of that OT money and bought new hinges for the driver's door.
Really not looking forward to that particular job lol.
That'll be after all other body work is done though.IMG_20260226_165512635.jpg
 
So far I've loved all of it except cutting out the inner and outer rocker stuff .
But, I've been tired, cranky, and in pain from last years BS still.
Half of it's my fault because
A. My dumb azz is just doing it in a long sleeve T-shirt.
B. Since I have a hard time wearing a hat due to last years BS, my open hair thinning mellon is a spark catcher.

I need to find something I can put on my head that has NO electric,and will stop sparks.
And pick up a welding coat/jacket..

I'll be looking around at the local HF, and my welding supply store tomorrow.
 
I don't want to look all over the stores tomorrow so I ordered a couple things that'll be here tomorrow.
Couple different caps.
And I'm going to bring home one of my FR work shirts tomorrow to put over my Long sleeve T-shirt..
Couple more cuts and I'll be out from under it anyway.
 
I bought desktop dyno 5 because I was bored and always wanted a desktop dyno program.
There's data it wants that I can't find for my engine.

But... I'd say it came out pretty close for what it is :thinking: Screenshot_20260226-230653~2.jpgIMG_20260226_182744803_MP~3.jpgIMG_20260226_182744803_MP~2.jpg
 
I see they have added combustion chamber options and also a lifter accell rate, etc.

My older version doesn't have those options and I get a huge difference between using the duration numbers at .050 or advertised and I have to pick the more realistic one.

What are the options when you go into the cam manager?
 
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