CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Last one I had built was something like a 100 miles then drop pan and filter and drain converter (if possible). Then 500 miles. Then a 1000 miles. Only reason I remember this is because I put a 1000 miles on my truck in 2 days so I could get to a dyno event.
I was thinking at least drop the pan after 100 or so, AMD change fluid/filter.
There has to be stuff wearing in a little or something.
Thought about calling the place that built it and asking. But no body said anything about any instructions when I picked it up.... So
Didn't want to sound stupid if I called them lol.
There has to be stuff wearing in a little or something.
Thought about calling the place that built it and asking. But no body said anything about any instructions when I picked it up.... So
Didn't want to sound stupid if I called them lol.
Yeah, I triple checked the fluid level now, and can definitely tell the fluid is all the way up the weird dip stick I have.
Didn't appear to be foaming or anything either, so I don't believe it's overfull.
Didn't appear to be foaming or anything either, so I don't believe it's overfull.
Something I forgot to mention....
The new exhaust fuggin SUCKS.
Not sure if it's the mufflers, or the going out the tail thing.
When your cruising slow and just barely try to accelerate its got a nice grumble. Idling isnt bad either. But as soon as you put your foot in it, it gets quiet
Exactly the opposite of what I wanted.
I went from dynomax super turbos exiting right in front of the rear tires, to thrush welded 2 chambers exiting under the rear bumper.
I pretty much hate it.
I figured it'd quiet it down inside, for longer cruises, but still be loud as fork when I'm in it.
REALLY didn't expect WOT to get quiet.
The new exhaust fuggin SUCKS.
Not sure if it's the mufflers, or the going out the tail thing.
When your cruising slow and just barely try to accelerate its got a nice grumble. Idling isnt bad either. But as soon as you put your foot in it, it gets quiet
Exactly the opposite of what I wanted.
I went from dynomax super turbos exiting right in front of the rear tires, to thrush welded 2 chambers exiting under the rear bumper.
I pretty much hate it.
I figured it'd quiet it down inside, for longer cruises, but still be loud as fork when I'm in it.
REALLY didn't expect WOT to get quiet.
I had a set of black widows that would do that. Loud as hell at idle and part throttle but get on it and they went quiet. Went to Borla atak like I should have done originally and it’s exactly what I wanted.
I'm going to try the super turbos with the tail exhaust, and see how it goes.
If it still doesn't sound right, I'll leave the tails in place for future use since they're hung at both ends. Then just put the 45s back in until I'm older lol.
I really loved the way it sounded. And it didn't actually drone. Just with no AC and the windows down, the side exit was too much on a road trip.
If it still doesn't sound right, I'll leave the tails in place for future use since they're hung at both ends. Then just put the 45s back in until I'm older lol.
I really loved the way it sounded. And it didn't actually drone. Just with no AC and the windows down, the side exit was too much on a road trip.
I went in my program last night and moved all my pressure valve duty cycles to 5% up to 47% throttle, and 0% beyond that. Except 4th. Cause I can't stay in it long enough to reach that one, so it's just 5% all the way.
They had been all 5% across the board, except 1st.
It was 10% up to 47%tps.
This transmission shifts firm, and solid, but not the teeth jarring harshness even at low speed that last summers trans had.
So I figured the extra 5% wouldn't hurt anything.
They had been all 5% across the board, except 1st.
It was 10% up to 47%tps.
This transmission shifts firm, and solid, but not the teeth jarring harshness even at low speed that last summers trans had.
So I figured the extra 5% wouldn't hurt anything.
Also, trying something on my dieing issue.
I noticed my A/F ratio was set at 12.3 at full vacuum from 500-1200 rpm.
The area it idles and cruises was like 14.2
So I think when I let off the pedal completely, it was flooding its self with fuel it didn't want or need.
I moved that whole area from 90-100kpa and 500-1200 rpm up 1..
Then blended the graph.
I'll see how that does.
I'm thinking about taking it to work tomorrow night.
So I'll know more then.
I'm going to protect the paint till it quits smelling like new paint every time I open the shop door lol.
I figure that'll mean it's done off gassing, and should be fully cured lol
I noticed my A/F ratio was set at 12.3 at full vacuum from 500-1200 rpm.
The area it idles and cruises was like 14.2
So I think when I let off the pedal completely, it was flooding its self with fuel it didn't want or need.
I moved that whole area from 90-100kpa and 500-1200 rpm up 1..
Then blended the graph.
I'll see how that does.
I'm thinking about taking it to work tomorrow night.
So I'll know more then.
I'm going to protect the paint till it quits smelling like new paint every time I open the shop door lol.
I figure that'll mean it's done off gassing, and should be fully cured lol
That's the way it should be. And yeah, there isn't break in as long as the fluid level is good and the trans is not too cold.
12.3 would be pretty rich for a NA target A/F ratio, what does the learn table look like close to idle?
I didn't take a pic, but there was almost nothing in the most recent learn at idle.
I've already let it learn then transferred to base like 3-4 times. So it was happy, thinking it was getting the A/F ratio I wanted.
I transferred it again last night before I looked at the AF table and thought of that.
I'd get it out and take pics, but I was playing with it while camping, and realized when my battery got low that I brought the wrong charger lol.
I'll be home tomorrow, and plan on taking the computer to work with me and the right charger with it.
As soon as I get the camper unhooked and stuff unloaded I plan on putting the changes in, and going for a ride with Kaz and Chrissie.
They haven't rode in it yet this year.
I've already let it learn then transferred to base like 3-4 times. So it was happy, thinking it was getting the A/F ratio I wanted.
I transferred it again last night before I looked at the AF table and thought of that.
I'd get it out and take pics, but I was playing with it while camping, and realized when my battery got low that I brought the wrong charger lol.
I'll be home tomorrow, and plan on taking the computer to work with me and the right charger with it.
As soon as I get the camper unhooked and stuff unloaded I plan on putting the changes in, and going for a ride with Kaz and Chrissie.
They haven't rode in it yet this year.
See, the trans fluid cold thing is something I wouldn't have thought of.
I'd normally have left the shop, driven a block to get out of the neighborhood, and fuggin hammered it lol.
Which I kind of have done before leaving work.
Trans stays about 150-180 depending on where I'm at.
Usually by the time I let it idle a tad, then drive off of work property ( long ways) it's around 100.
Then I've mashed it .
Any certain temp I should wait for?
I think in the summer you don't have to worry about it much for the trans. The trans doesn't need a warm chamber like the engine for consistent combustion, the trans just needs to not be ice cold so the fluid is too thick and the seals are brittle. If its room temperature or higher have at it, the engine will need more warm up time to run ideally than the trans.
Cold start neutral drops. 
Sorry had to.
Sorry had to.
Cold start neutral drops.
Sorry had to.
The best burnout I've ever done was just that lol.
I had a 79 burlinetta camaro with a 455 Pontiac in it.
I was trying to change the heater core, and had some REAL bad mental anger issues at that time.
I dropped my work light, busting the bulb.
Then, in quick succession, stomped the p1ss out of the light, jumped in the car, backed out into the street, FLOORED it, and dropped it in drive.
Even with the open diff it posi marked em past 3 properties, then single legged it all the way to the end of the block, when I drifted around the corner and proceeded to beat the SNOT out of my car for a while
.Pretty sure it's the hardest flogging I've ever given a vehicle to this date
I did it in a cash for clunker, obs silverado. We sure had some fun with those, I kind of felt bad but it was wayyyy to much fun.
The best burnout I've ever done was just that lol.
I had a 79 burlinetta camaro with a 455 Pontiac in it.
I was trying to change the heater core, and had some REAL bad mental anger issues at that time.
I dropped my work light, busting the bulb.
Then, in quick succession, stomped the p1ss out of the light, jumped in the car, backed out into the street, FLOORED it, and dropped it in drive.
Even with the open diff it posi marked em past 3 properties, then single legged it all the way to the end of the block, when I drifted around the corner and proceeded to beat the SNOT out of my car for a while
Pretty sure it's the hardest flogging I've ever given a vehicle to this date
It's possible the A/F target is fine (although it seems like trying leaner than 12.3:1 would make sense) and this is a transient issue. Transients are really the hard part about tuning an engine, not a fuel map. What kind of settings do you have for decel fuel cut, or a modification based on change of TPS, MAP or MAF?
