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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Not horrible for a first show.
Wasn't last lol.
But, too be honest. I was the newest vehicle in the show by a decade. And I was up against things like a real boss 429, and a cobrajet torino.
I didn't have a chance lol
Wasn't last lol.
But, too be honest. I was the newest vehicle in the show by a decade. And I was up against things like a real boss 429, and a cobrajet torino.
I didn't have a chance lol
Yeah, when it ended I noticed quite a few going on trailers.
Dude with the torino lives by my inlaws. About a mile out a gravel road.
I know he drives his, cause we've seen him doing 5-8 mph off the gravie a few times lol.
Dude with the torino lives by my inlaws. About a mile out a gravel road.
I know he drives his, cause we've seen him doing 5-8 mph off the gravie a few times lol.
Screw the judges. You did something most of those trailer queen owners didn’t. You should be proud.
I am lol.
This dude owns a shop not far from me and built his.
He has "built not bought" all over it.
Turbo 5.3, bagged, original patina with clear over it
This dude had a full build book with pics of him getting dirty too
This dude owns a shop not far from me and built his.
He has "built not bought" all over it.
Turbo 5.3, bagged, original patina with clear over it
This dude had a full build book with pics of him getting dirty too
That charger is my literal dream car down to the paint and top color
I literally drove it home from work this morning, where it had sat outside in a thunderstorm last night. Took an hr nap, got up, and drove it to the show, without washing or vacuuming it lol.
Did a quick water spot wipe down at the show, and just hoped nobody looked inside lol.
The dude with the 50 Buick and me, will talk again.
Spent quite a bit of time talking to him. And found out he owns a custom shop about 18 miles from my place, that Ive stopped in front of and taken pics for the 'in the wild' threads on here. Lol.
I'll be swinging in there with the burb some day soon.
Spent quite a bit of time talking to him. And found out he owns a custom shop about 18 miles from my place, that Ive stopped in front of and taken pics for the 'in the wild' threads on here. Lol.
I'll be swinging in there with the burb some day soon.
Odd question....
Something I've been kicking around.
The instructions for this engine said to prime it with mobil 1 15w-50 prior to starting.
So basically breaking it in on serious synthetic.
But, to this date, about 2000 miles in, it still seems like the rings haven't set.
It clearly burns oil, and has blow by.
Would it hurt anything you think, if I ran a change of regular dino juice through it ?
Not taking it to the drag track or anything like that.
But just change it and drive it normally for a while.
1000 miles or something?
Just not sure how it's going to seat, and wondered if the oil burning is causing me any issues.
Idle, O2 sensor reading, etc...
I can smell it in the exhaust, and it routinely pushes the dipstick out of the tube 1/2-3/4"
Maybe I'll have to switch to this for a while then...View attachment 533647
It's worth a shot but may be too late if the rings glazed over. If you do it don't leave it in more than 500 miles, and don't baby it. Beat the snot out of it! I mean it.
If the oil pressure starts dropping at all get it out ASAP, that stuff isn't made to last 1000 miles.
Want something that also might work? I have seen multiple engines on the dyno now pickup 5 -7 HP after we sprayed them 100 shot with no other changes. The rings suddenly seated in better with the heat and pressure. At first I thought it was a fluke but I have seen it enough now to know it's not a fluke. It's not every time, but more often than not.
Also, a long time ago I had an engine that burned oil for 10 years, until I sprayed it a 150 shot, then it mostly stopped!
I suggested that after you bought it but you wanted to follow the manufacturer instructions, I don't blame you for that but the GM warranty on burning oil sucks, their tolerance is way too high.
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I found the HP1 that r3dd0g mentioned.
It's still a conventional 15w-50, but isn't break in oil.
Thought maybe a full 1000 miles or so on that maybe..?
I only have like 1600 on this engine as it is, and pretty much DO beat the snot out of it lol.
I'm still trying to figure out if I can make it up your way with this yet. We wanted to take Kaz to the geek arcade in madison.
Crappy part is I have to come up that way soon to get a part for another car just south of madison. But I need my pickup for that.
Debated towing the burb, so I could do it all at once.
So many options, and can't figure out which would be best, so I could coordinate the right weekend with you lol.
It's still a conventional 15w-50, but isn't break in oil.
Thought maybe a full 1000 miles or so on that maybe..?
I only have like 1600 on this engine as it is, and pretty much DO beat the snot out of it lol.
I'm still trying to figure out if I can make it up your way with this yet. We wanted to take Kaz to the geek arcade in madison.
Crappy part is I have to come up that way soon to get a part for another car just south of madison. But I need my pickup for that.
Debated towing the burb, so I could do it all at once.
So many options, and can't figure out which would be best, so I could coordinate the right weekend with you lol.
I think your best chance for the oil is with the breakin oil, I just wouldn't leave it in long.
The rings need cylinder pressure to seat in, at 1600 miles it's likely too late.
A shot of nitrous with suddenly increased cylinder pressure than it has ever seen before is seriously your best chance other than rehoning the cylinders and fresh rings.
I think the oil is worth a shot though, can't hurt, unless you leave it in too long.
The rings need cylinder pressure to seat in, at 1600 miles it's likely too late.
A shot of nitrous with suddenly increased cylinder pressure than it has ever seen before is seriously your best chance other than rehoning the cylinders and fresh rings.
I think the oil is worth a shot though, can't hurt, unless you leave it in too long.
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BTW, have you verified your IAC valve is working?
I had to do this last week with a new engine fire up and new EFI install and I thought of your burb.
I typically leave the engine off and go change the "IAC parked" position while I ask someone to watch the IAC through the air hole. I change it from 0 to 100 and back again a couple times to verify it is working.
Here's the thing that I thought of you, not sure if I have mentioned this before in your thread or not but I know I have mentioned it on CK5. There are two types of IAC valves that have the exact same connector and bolt on the same too, GM and Chrysler. However they use different pinouts, the A and C pins are opposite (whoever did that should be slapped silly) This IAC was doing nothing, but the computer does not know this. I had to swap the A and C pins, and then it magically started working, something to check by verifying that the IAC is actually working.
I had to do this last week with a new engine fire up and new EFI install and I thought of your burb.
I typically leave the engine off and go change the "IAC parked" position while I ask someone to watch the IAC through the air hole. I change it from 0 to 100 and back again a couple times to verify it is working.
Here's the thing that I thought of you, not sure if I have mentioned this before in your thread or not but I know I have mentioned it on CK5. There are two types of IAC valves that have the exact same connector and bolt on the same too, GM and Chrysler. However they use different pinouts, the A and C pins are opposite (whoever did that should be slapped silly) This IAC was doing nothing, but the computer does not know this. I had to swap the A and C pins, and then it magically started working, something to check by verifying that the IAC is actually working.
Now that it does NEED nitrous to do a burnout.... Im actually more inclined to add a 75 shot or something.
They way I had thought of it Before was,
If I HAVE to have nitrous to do a burnout, then I'll have to have an active bottle in there every time I drive it. Which comes with the headache of constant filling, worrying about it when it sits outside all day in 97* heat, etc.
But, now.... Since I don't NEED it to burnouts, I could just throw the bottle in every now and then for exhibition runs and the occasional test n tune.
Meaning it'd be easier to run a smaller bottle so it'll fit where I want also.
All that being said. Are you positive 75-100 shot won't bust a ring land since I'm not pulling it apart to file rings?
Before I go that route though....
I'm going to disconnect the PCV system , run tubes out to the ground as temporary catch cans, and see if it's not burning oil only because of that...
The inside of my intake is SHINY.
They way I had thought of it Before was,
If I HAVE to have nitrous to do a burnout, then I'll have to have an active bottle in there every time I drive it. Which comes with the headache of constant filling, worrying about it when it sits outside all day in 97* heat, etc.
But, now.... Since I don't NEED it to burnouts, I could just throw the bottle in every now and then for exhibition runs and the occasional test n tune.
Meaning it'd be easier to run a smaller bottle so it'll fit where I want also.
All that being said. Are you positive 75-100 shot won't bust a ring land since I'm not pulling it apart to file rings?
Before I go that route though....
I'm going to disconnect the PCV system , run tubes out to the ground as temporary catch cans, and see if it's not burning oil only because of that...
The inside of my intake is SHINY.
Now that it does NEED nitrous to do a burnout.... Im actually more inclined to add a 75 shot or something.
They way I had thought of it Before was,
If I HAVE to have nitrous to do a burnout, then I'll have to have an active bottle in there every time I drive it. Which comes with the headache of constant filling, worrying about it when it sits outside all day in 97* heat, etc.
But, now.... Since I don't NEED it to burnouts, I could just throw the bottle in every now and then for exhibition runs and the occasional test n tune.
Meaning it'd be easier to run a smaller bottle so it'll fit where I want also.
All that being said. Are you positive 75-100 shot won't bust a ring land since I'm not pulling it apart to file rings?
Before I go that route though....
I'm going to disconnect the PCV system , run tubes out to the ground as temporary catch cans, and see if it's not burning oil only because of that...
The inside of my intake is SHINY.
There are never any guarantees with nitrous, but I would not be afraid of a 100 shot. I have sprayed a 175 shot on rings I gapped for NA before many times, I don't recommend it, but that engine I didn't care anymore and it was fine. The LSX454 probably does not even have gapped rings, which means there is a tolerance they have to hold, which likely means the ring gap is a little larger than it could be for NA anyway. Just stick with a 100 shot which is the generally accepted max for premium pump gas and you will probably be fine.
Did you see my post on the IAC above?
I know it works as far as pi out, because I've watched it change and the motor change with it a bunch.
The surging that sounds like blower surge that I get comes from it swinging lol.
I'll watch. It start closing, engine falls, then it opens up fast, engine revs, thinks it's too high so it closes again, and repeat.
The issue I had a while back went away for some reason.
No idea what was going on, but the IAC was calling for 80 and 100% and it was still dieing.
Weird part was it washing ramping. It would click to exactly 80, then instantly click to 100.
Not 83, 98, etc.
I've started it in full rain on a 55* morning, outside, since then. Started right up and did it's thing.
Only odd part I've noticed now. And maybe they're just this way due to atmosphere or something.
I'll set the TB blade, for 8-10 % IAC when it's at full operating temp. It's all good. Seems to stay there.
Next time I drive it, it'll all act the same, no difference. But the IAC will be at 25-30 idling.
Don't touch it, and the next time I drive it, it may be back to 8-10, or even 0-5.
But it doesn't change how it actually runs or idles.
It's just like it's compensating for different air or some chit... ?
So I have no idea if my TB blade is set correctly, because it seems to change the idle IAC daily.
The surging that sounds like blower surge that I get comes from it swinging lol.
I'll watch. It start closing, engine falls, then it opens up fast, engine revs, thinks it's too high so it closes again, and repeat.
The issue I had a while back went away for some reason.
No idea what was going on, but the IAC was calling for 80 and 100% and it was still dieing.
Weird part was it washing ramping. It would click to exactly 80, then instantly click to 100.
Not 83, 98, etc.
I've started it in full rain on a 55* morning, outside, since then. Started right up and did it's thing.
Only odd part I've noticed now. And maybe they're just this way due to atmosphere or something.
I'll set the TB blade, for 8-10 % IAC when it's at full operating temp. It's all good. Seems to stay there.
Next time I drive it, it'll all act the same, no difference. But the IAC will be at 25-30 idling.
Don't touch it, and the next time I drive it, it may be back to 8-10, or even 0-5.
But it doesn't change how it actually runs or idles.
It's just like it's compensating for different air or some chit... ?
So I have no idea if my TB blade is set correctly, because it seems to change the idle IAC daily.
Watch your timing to see if your timing is consistent, if your timing changes because of some setting, it can change the airflow requirements to idle by quite a bit.
Also, it's normal to require more IAC when the engine is cold or in gear, that's what it is for.
Also, it's normal to require more IAC when the engine is cold or in gear, that's what it is for.
