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M1009 Standard Shift Build(The Greatest Adventure)

Overview Gallery Discussion
Richcz28 said:
I think the angles are ok but the amount of limited down travel really has me nervous.

a9e8arap.jpg
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Get the die grinder out
 
jekquistk5 said:
Just overfill to compensate for oiling at low speed.
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Technically, since the pinion is now higher than it was originally, the fill plug is higher. So, it should be overfilled right from the get go.

Be sure to follow the break in procedure for the new gears. Drive time, cool time, more drive time, cool time.... Actually, I have your gear booklets here.

The book says...
*Avoid heavy acceleration during the break in process
*Drive lightly for 15-20 miles and stop, let the diff cool. (no time listed, prob a few hours at least)
*Avoid heavy acceleration for the first 100 miles.
*No towing/heavy hauling for 500 miles.
*When towing for the first time, drive for up to 15 miles and stop to let the diff cool about 20 minutes before proceeding. Repeat this 2 more times (45 miles total) to fully break in the gears.
*Change the gear oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles or phosphoric coating shed by the gears during the break in.
*These towing instructions may seem unnecessary to most people, but we have seen many differentials damaged from being loaded before the gear set was full broken in.
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I copied that right out of the book for you. :waytogo:
 
"Avoid heavy acceleration"
I don't think Rich needs to worry much about that with his 6.2 powerhouse :haha:
 
I was thinking the same thing. But wanted him to have the complete instructions anyways. lol
 
Taking care of some little things today.

Hooking up the e-brake. I don't have to take the shoes apart :thumb:

I think I can put new wheel studs in without pulling the axle shafts too. There's lots of room in there.

I put one of my new wheels on for a test fit. The holes fit snug on the studs. The lug seats have a slight conical shape around the stud.

Here are some pics.

3y2yzydy.jpg


yry4uneq.jpg


qy6eburu.jpg
 
Those look like they take normal conical lug nuts. Hard to see if it's normal conical or the bulge style from those pics. At least it's not the shank and washer style.
 
M1009 Standard Shift Build(Winter is coming!)

I did some sanding on the driveshaft I get a little more articulation. A little went a long way. I think I got 10 extra degrees.

eqyrazu4.jpg
 
M1009 Standard Shift Build(Winter is coming!)

I just took the blazer for a 15 minute drive and it works! So far so good.

Now to drive 500 miles before I tow on Friday :doah:
 
4.88s are low :thumb:

I need to get it out on the highway and actually drive the sm465 long enough to warm up to really tell.

The overdrive has a 15-30 minute break in recommendation so I'm changing the fluid right now.
 
Your still on the TSL's right now ....right ? I know you were talking about 35 MTR's but I can't remember if you got them :dunno:
 
The mtrs are stacked up next to the new wheels in my garage. I still need to pick up the inner airlocks. I haven't found any at a price point I have felt comfortable jumping on.

I will hopefully get them all set up by mid January.

Right now priorities are

Get exhaust fixed
Put heat in my trailer
Get front gears in
Tires

I have all the wiring and my heater so it should be coming together before the weekend.

Oh and I had to put my roof on for the snow storm :doah:
 
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