What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

M1009 Standard Shift Build(The Greatest Adventure)

Overview Gallery Discussion
Richcz28

Richcz28

1/2 ton status
Vendor
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Posts
3,544
Reaction score
358
Location
Boston
Richcz28 submitted a new Build:

M1009 Standard Shift Build(The Greatest Adventure)

So I have had my blazer for a little over a year. I have done some minor projects, but this is my first time really getting into the truck. As I work on swapping from auto to manual I also am looking to fix my floors and install a factoryish stereo.

I owe a huge thanks to 496truck for helping me pull the parts off a donor truck to start this project. I have everything for the swap except a clutch and flywheel. The donor truck was a 1983 suburban that was originally a 350 with the 4 speed manual and a 208 t-case.

This will probably take me awhile to complete, but I am going to try to post pictures and updates as often as possible. I welcome any help or suggestions from people who have gone down this road before.

View attachment 127837
Click to expand...

Read more about this build here...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is a picture of everything I got off of the donor truck. I can't use the flywheel because of the differences in the 6.2. The clutch is also fairly beat so I am going to grab a new one when I am at that step. I just got a coupon in the mail for 20$ off an Autozone Clutch set and the price really will be hard to beat. I'm not very hard on a standard and I think their diaphragm clutch will do me just fine.

012.jpg

016.jpg
 
Beginning the breakdown. I got the seats out and the vinyl floor up. I knew I had some rot, but there is always a few surprises. The tunnel by on the passenger side rear is real bad.

Another surprise was the tranny cover is not bolted on. I was planning on hanging the tranny from a crane down through the truck like I read in another writeup on this site. Now I am Wondering if I should just cut a hole in this cover for the shifter. Does anyone know how the cover is attatched? Is it tack welded and seam sealed?

006.jpg

015.jpg

017.jpg

019.jpg

020.jpg
 
The b pillar rot worries me the most. Especially on the drivers side.

014.jpg

011.JPG
 
The rest of the truck is actually very solid. The frame is in excellent shape, and there is really very little rot on the outside of the body. It does need work on the driver side rocker.
 
Looks alot better than I have repaired or put up with.
 
haha thanks for the vote of confidence. It is going to be a welding 101 course for me I think. I have been shopping around for panels, but I'm sure I will need to do some creating in spots.

I am wondering if i need (want/afraid to) to remove the panel on the drivers side b-pillar to see whats behind, and where it even ends...
 
Here is my build thread for my 1988 V10 Suburban. I swapped it from an automatic to an SM465. I used a hydraulic set up instead of a mechanical linkage though. I did my friend's 1986 K10 though, and used a mechanical linkage setup from a 1982 K10. His 1986 K10 had the stamp outs for both hydraulic and mechanical setups in the cab.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251067

I'll look and see if I have any pictures of the swap I did on his truck. As for the center floor pan, I believe it is tacked on, and I know there is sealer between it, you can see it around the edges, but I have never tried to remove one. I just cut holes in the existing floor pan. There is an obvious punchout for the shifter in the floor pan.

Martin
 
Thanks that was a fun build to look through. I also have some ez inches on the way for the front. Mainly because my center pins are moving about in my spring perches. I have a new surplus front axle so I know the holes are good, but im guessing the center pins had rusted in the old axle. My u-bolts came already but they are a bit longer than I expected. I think 11 1/2 inches. I'm debating whether to cut them down or get new ones, and I have read differing opinions on here. Do you know what size your running? I'm on 10 bolts so it won't be quite the same just curious.
 
Got the old break pedal and column out. Only difference is the studs that go through the firewall for mounting back up. I need to pop two studs out of the new pedals because two studs are already on the hydroboost and come into the blazer the opposite way from the donor truck.

009.jpg

008.jpg
 
The first picture is electrical stuff on my original steering column and the second is my donor. Might be putting the original back in, because it has wipers and the new one doesn't. Wondering if I can make one out of two but doesn't seem very likely. I may be looking for a third column. I don't really want the auto shifter floating around.

004.JPG

005.JPG
 
You can just pop the pin out of the shifter for the automatic and the shifter comes right out. That is how I did it. I didn't see the need to swap columns.

Martin
 
Subscribed to see how it turns out!

I would try cutting the hole in the tunnel you have. Keep the bolt in tunnel as a "just in case". Removing the original tunnel is simply drilling out spot welds and fighting with sealer.

I can help you with welding in some patch panels when you get to that point. Just let me know.
 
I made some progress with the blazer. I started by drilling the hole for the clutch rod linkage. There are already dimples in the footwell to guide the drill. I used a 2 inch holesaw which was pretty close to the size of the gasket off of the donor truck.

One thing that was a pain was getting the two studs off the new pedal set that didn't match up with the bolts from the booster that come through the firewall. I started out using a dremel to grind down to the welds. I couldn't fit an angle grinder. I got one off with the dremel, but the dremel didn't fit in the other hole so I used a chisel. The chisel made much quicker work of it but I bent up the flange decently. I used the other set of pedals to reshape the flange the best I could so it would fit back in the truck. With the help of a bfh I got the pedals in.

008.jpg

010.jpg

012.jpg

014.jpg

016.jpg
 
I was working on hooking up some of the electrical under the dash, but I don't know the proper alignment for this switch.

015.JPG
 
How worried about being able to start it without depressing the clutch pedal are you?

Martin
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom