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Manny's 83 K10 (INDEX)(56K) Manny answers his critics and FALSE ACCUSATIONS

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MuddinManny said:
So Harry,

Curious? What did GM change that allowed the spec to go up so high?

Manny
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As far as I can tell, it was the change to auto-locking hubs. Part of the hub mechanism fits over a pair of tangs that stick out of the later style lock ring. As the truck goes backwards and forwards, the mechanism rocks back and forth against these tangs. My guess is that early testing showed that this would loosen the lock nuts and cause bearing failure, so they raised the spec. Everything else in there appears to be the same as in the earlier axles.
 
If this helps Manny, this is straight out of my '91 Factory Chevy R/V manual (blazers, burbs, & crew cabs).

Specs
Ft lbs
Nut-Splash Shield Retaining 65
Nut With Pin (Bearing Preload) 50
(Final Torque) 35
Cover Screws- Auto or Manual Locking Hub 45 (inch lbs)
Adjusting Nut- Axle Shaft 183 (GMTB-0350-2L)

(sorry, it wouldn't keep the spaces in the table when saved)
BTW I'm really enjoying your build, it's awesome
 
MuddinManny said:
Hey Y'all,

Okay, I appreciate all the words of kindness and wisdom about the carburetor's. I don't want to see this post turn into a battle between Holley and Edelbrock.

The reason the 850 was on there was because I had told Mr. Janke that I wanted to race my truck at the MUD DRAGS. Whereas the 850 is great for HP, on the street it put just too much gas into the engine at the lower RPM scale and it couldn't overcome that. In short. Right carb, wrong application. The truck is much happier with the 750 on it. I have a little fine tuning to do, but nothing outrageous. The electric choke needs to be turned up a bit, and it needs to be leaned, ever, and I mean ever, so slightly. The truck has life in it, that with the 850 on, it did not. I've known about the Holley reputation for being a PITA towards adjustment for awhile. This is the first time I've come across it. Any issue(s) will be resolved. It just takes time, knowledge, patience and a little extra care.

If I cannot get the Holley resolved, I'll go to an Edelbrock. But for right now, I'm staying the course. If I came across harsh or offended anyone, my apologies. Just trying to state the obvious misapplication, lesson learned and get back on focus.

Thanks everyone for caring so much. It really helps out!

Manny
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If you want to get serious about a performance carb, get a Demon. Infinitely better than a Holley or Edelbrock, IMO. With what you have in that motor, it would be a perfect fit. I've had 2 of them on 2 different vehicles, one of them a 383.... Mopar big block that is.

650 Speed Demon is your ticket. It would look badass sittin' atop that badass motor. :saweet:
 
mini_mull said:
If this helps Manny, this is straight out of my '91 Factory Chevy R/V manual (blazers, burbs, & crew cabs).

Specs
Ft lbs
Nut-Splash Shield Retaining 65
Nut With Pin (Bearing Preload) 50
(Final Torque) 35
Cover Screws- Auto or Manual Locking Hub 45 (inch lbs)
Adjusting Nut- Axle Shaft 183 (GMTB-0350-2L)

(sorry, it wouldn't keep the spaces in the table when saved)
BTW I'm really enjoying your build, it's awesome
Click to expand...
That last one is 183? Seem a wierd spec - they are usually rounded off to the nearest 5 lb increment.

Anyway, my factory service manual and a set of instructions I have from a set of Warn premium hubs for a 10b/D44 are both pretty much the same. They say to tighten the inner nut to 50 ft/lbs while rotating the hub to seat the bearing. Then, back the inner nut off 1/4 turn and install the indexing ring rotating the inner nut slightly if necessary to align to the nearest hole. Finally, install the outer nut and torque to 160-210 lb/ft. Now, that is for a 10b/D44, so I would imagine a D60 is at least the same amount of torque and a similar procedure. Those spindle nuts are big, and can easily take that much torque. I pulled mine up to 180 ft/lbs, and there was no hint of stretching or threads pulling. They simply pulled smoothly right to torque. Since having it loosen is a very bad thing, I would rather err on the side of safety.
 
this build up is massive...can't go a day without reading or else i fall way behind...crap i started on page 73...lmao. looking good. really dig how you color matched the knuckles to the steering arms, i wish i had that much patience to get my rig looking pretty but who cares when i'm just gonna bash on it hard
 
It's been a great thread, certainly should be archived here somewhere. Remove all the BS posts, like this one:laugh:, and have an excellent How-To.



Now DROP AN" GIVE ME 10 REPS WITH THAT DANA!:eek1::eek1::haha::haha:
 
MaxPF said:
That last one is 183? Seem a wierd spec - they are usually rounded off to the nearest 5 lb increment.
Click to expand...

Just typed exactly what was printed. I thought it was strange, too. BTW, it's at the end of the chapter for the "Front Driving Axle, section 4C", and it's the only table listed in a chapter that covers 10 bolts and Dana 60s and also both auto and manual hubs. In the chapter "Front Suspension and Axle, section 3C" it says the following under bearing adjustment, I believe this is the procedure in question, correct me if I'm wrong:

Bearing Adjustment
- Tighten adj nut to 50 ft lbs
- back off adj nut
- tighten adj nut(for auto hubs 35 ft lbs while rotating wheel & for manual hubs to 50 ft lbs while rotating wheel)
- back off adj nut (for auto hubs back off 3/8 of a turn max & for manual back off enough to free bearing)
- install ring and lock nut (tang on inside diameter of ring must pass onto the slot on the spindle, the hole in the ring must align with the pin on the lock nut, move the adj ring to align the pin.)
- tighten lock nut to 160 ft lbs minimum
- measure endplay in hub/rotor. it should be set between .025 to .254mm

It's times like this I wish I had a scanner. :crazy:

Hope this clears up things a little. It's a little more specific.

BTW, this is for you Manny :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
 
mini_mull said:
Just typed exactly what was printed. I thought it was strange, too. BTW, it's at the end of the chapter for the "Front Driving Axle, section 4C", and it's the only table listed in a chapter that covers 10 bolts and Dana 60s and also both auto and manual hubs. In the chapter "Front Suspension and Axle, section 3C" it says the following under bearing adjustment, I believe this is the procedure in question, correct me if I'm wrong:

Bearing Adjustment
- Tighten adj nut to 50 ft lbs
- back off adj nut
- tighten adj nut(for auto hubs 35 ft lbs while rotating wheel & for manual hubs to 50 ft lbs while rotating wheel)
- back off adj nut (for auto hubs back off 3/8 of a turn max & for manual back off enough to free bearing)
- install ring and lock nut (tang on inside diameter of ring must pass onto the slot on the spindle, the hole in the ring must align with the pin on the lock nut, move the adj ring to align the pin.)
- tighten lock nut to 160 ft lbs minimum
- measure endplay in hub/rotor. it should be set between .025 to .254mm

BTW, this is for you Manny :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
Click to expand...


Exactly the same procedure as stated in my 10-30 Series 1985 light duty truck shop manual . . .

. . . except torque of the lock nut. It's 170ft/lbs according to my manual, so that's 10 more for me I guess. :wink1:


And another one for you Manny :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:


Walter
 
150 ft/lbs is the spec in my 1987 Chevrolet Factory Service Manual. :eek1: The spec for the same nut in my 1974 manual is somewhere in the 50-65 ft/lbs range.
Click to expand...

Ah, good to know. I was a little worried since I'm sure I didn't remember getting anywhere near 150 ft/lbs when I did my wheel bearings.
 
very cool manny! cannot wait for you to get all of this together. you have a really sweet project going here. keep up the good work.
 
Manny don't screw around with the electric chokes. They suck...

Get a manual choke conversion kit and you will be much happier because you can control how rich or lean the engine runs from the cab. Elimates all guess work. I have had a manual choke after the 2nd month I had my truck, so much better with the manual, and I live in Massa - "Its F*CKING COLD!!!" -chusetts.
 
mrk5 said:
If you want to get serious about a performance carb, get a Demon. Infinitely better than a Holley or Edelbrock, IMO. With what you have in that motor, it would be a perfect fit. I've had 2 of them on 2 different vehicles, one of them a 383.... Mopar big block that is.

650 Speed Demon is your ticket. It would look badass sittin' atop that badass motor. :saweet:
Click to expand...
OR a Predator Carb. Now THAT would look badass:saweet:
 
I'll be pullin for ya bro. The weather has sucked for the last few days here. Hoping for a clear Saturday so I can make a u pull run to source some bracket bolts.

You've got a pretty agressive schedule set but if anybody can pull it off while still taking 2.5GB worth of pictures its you!! :D:D
 
I can't wait to see your new avatar once you get all the goodies on that beast.

I feel your frustrations with the engine. I have had the same issues with my Carter after I got my 383 put in. I finally broke down and took it to our local quadrajet guru to have one built and tuned to the engine. I just don't have time to deal with it right now. I'm looking forward to gettting it back. I will get to take it to the local dyno hopefully pretty soon to see what kind of power I have under the hood.
You have an edge on me though, I never got my engine dyno tuned. :(
 
im so excited...i can't wait till monday. haha, i wish you were local so i could come see this monster in person bro. congrats on my dream truck though.
 
MuddinManny said:
Thanks!

I'm really thinking of attending the Rausch Creek CK5 gathering in July. Even though I'm from Texas, would y'all welcome me?

Manny
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would you bring your truck? I will be there. But you definitely do not want to follow me. you will end up with a custom tapered front end and bed by the end of the day.:D If you do come up I would be more then happy to show you around. You just can't bring any cowboy's stuff. This is Eagles country.

I fixed the electric choke on my holley. turned it all the way back so that it is barely on. You have to work the gas when it's really cold but it's better then it sticking. I only wheel mine though. If I had to DD it would be annoying.

when it's over 40-50+ degrees outside I can get in press the gas once, turn the key and it will fire. any colder I have to just feather the gas for a minute till the motor gets some heat.
 
If you want mud in this area then the Pine Barrens in Jersey is where you should go. I used to go there a couple of times a year. most guys are running rockwells or bigger with 50-60 inch tractor tires. I would be one of the smaller guys and my truck has 44's.

A friend of mine has a 67 mercedes unimog with 52" high speed tractor tires that he stores down there. The ground clearance is amazing, it takes a deep hole to get the axles in the muck.

wear all the longhorn stuff you want. no one will even notice, but the cowboy's :mad: someone will say something at some point. I am totally blown away by the fact that troy aikman is the commentator for most of the Eagles games. what tv. executive thought of that.
 
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