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mercedes washer heater in k5?

chicken joe

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the pic is the mercedes
Pic5.jpgso i have been stuck on finding a way to heat my washer fluid and this is what i came up with.

the mercedes w210 uses a washer bottle with a heating element that works off the engine cooling system. this is what im pretty sure im going to use.

what does everyone else think, i have more info if needed

thanks
mike

Pic5.jpg
 
Aren't you just right across the lake from here? Just wondered as I haven't noticed any issues with the stuff rated for cold weather :dunno:



Cool idea though.
 
Aren't you just right across the lake from here? Just wondered as I haven't noticed any issues with the stuff rated for cold weather :dunno:



Cool idea though.

i am

currently all i have are wipers, and need a washer system, so i thought i might get creative.
 
i am

currently all i have are wipers, and need a washer system, so i thought i might get creative.

Ohhhh I thought you meant just put the heater in yours. Carry on.


Only flaw I see is it's another couple failure point for coolant to find its way out of.
 
Ohhhh I thought you meant just put the heater in yours. Carry on.


Only flaw I see is it's another couple failure point for coolant to find its way out of.


yeah thats what i have been thinking about. im not sure where i would tap into the coolant system either
 
Don't they make non-freezing washer fluid?

If going this route, what about a reservoir that mounts to the block or exhaust studs (obviously made of metal) so that engine heat is transferred directly into it? Keeping it from boiling or evaporating may be an issue at that point, but located properly, that shouldn't be much of an issue.

There are metal "T's" made for tapping into the radiator hoses (normally for retrofit of surge tank systems) so getting pressurized fluid out wouldn't be an issue. You'd have to put it back in somewhere though to get flow, only open place on most small blocks will be the plugged port on the water pump.
 
Assuming the engine was warm, you could de-ice your windshield quick with a setup like this, with steam rolling off. I wonder if you could break the windshield under severe conditions? As for plumbing, why not just put it in parallel with the heater core?

Something to keep in mind is that you still need good antifreeze washer fluid or you will make tons of ice around the windshield. Plus, if the fluid freezes in the rubber tubes you won't get it moving again until the car sees a good thaw.
 
I wouldnt add a circulatory loop in the cooling system to heat washer fluid. Talk about another instance of Mercedez over engineering.

They make these pads, I cant remember the name of them but I bet fordum knows, just seems like something he would have in the wordly head of his, but anyway they take in voltage and produce cold on one side and heat on the other. They are very low draw and used in electric cooler applications, the kind where they will only cool 30* below ambient temp and are basically useless. But in this situation 40* washer fluid spraying on a 10* windshield would probably make a huge difference.
 
My rv has tank heaters on it. 8"x12" 12 volt pads that stick onto plastic. A switch for when you really need it.

It was -14 here last week, and the blazer was fine with good fluid.

My wife said her washers did not work. But she wash trying to twist the wiper switch. You push the button on the end.:doah:
 
Plenty of aftermaket kits out there. I think it would be cool to transfer it over
 
They make these pads, I cant remember the name of them but I bet fordum knows, just seems like something he would have in the wordly head of his, but anyway they take in voltage and produce cold on one side and heat on the other. They are very low draw and used in electric cooler applications, the kind where they will only cool 30* below ambient temp and are basically useless. But in this situation 40* washer fluid spraying on a 10* windshield would probably make a huge difference.

Not exactly what you are talking about, but you can buy snowmobile/motorcycle grip heaters for dirt cheap, supposedly only draw 10W. They can get quite hot. Putting one under (or on) a reservoir wouldn't be hard, but I don't think I'd do it on the stock one, I'd be worried they'd shatter being ice cold and getting hit with a quick burst of heat.
 
look on jegs/summit...

IIRC,, they make 12 volt heater pads for NOS bottles..

something like that may work......:dunno:
 
They make these pads, I cant remember the name of them but I bet fordum knows, just seems like something he would have in the wordly head of his, but anyway they take in voltage and produce cold on one side and heat on the other.

I can't decide if this makes me feel like Yoda, or Cliff from Cheers...........

Anyway, its called the Peltier effect.....
Named after a French physicist Jean Charles Athanase Peltier.
Basically its a thermocouple in reverse.
If you have two dissimilar metals joined, and heat the junction, a voltage is produced.
That, by the way, is called the Seebeck effect, named after the Baltic German physicist Thomas Johann Seebeck.

The Peltier effect occurs when you put a voltage across the junction. One side gets hot, the other side gets cold.

Sort of like the effect of Maxwell's demon.
I'll let you look that one up.

The modules are readily available, but are used mostly for cooling. They are very limited in their use, and are often pushed way beyond their capabilities.
Such as the solid state ice chests that you see for sale.

If you stay within their limits, they work very well.

In this case, you could probably make it work OK, but it would not be cost effective at all.
A module big enough to heat up the tank would be costly, plus you would have to put a control on it.
Since it needs a temp differential to work effectively, it would not do well trying to dump cold into below zero air.
But, once it had engine heat under the hood to work with, it would very quickly try to get too hot and might melt the plastic bottle unless its controlled.

And the controller costs a lot too.

Personally, if I wanted warm water on the windshield, I would find a small cheap 12V pump and a thermostat.
Lay a piece of stainless steel tubing close to the exhaust manifold, with some loops before and after to increase the distance and stop the heat from going too far.
Then some high temp rubber hose from the tubing to the pump and tank.
Use an antifreeze solution in the bottle, and set the thermostat at about 80 degrees.
When the engine is cranked, the pump comes on and starts circulating the fluid through tubing from the bottle and back.
The manifold would heat up quickly, and therefore so would the bottle of fluid.

After the bottle got to 80, the pump would stop, and the small amount of fluid in the steel tubing would boil away.
Since the end would be open to the tank, there would be no pressure buildup. The rubber hose and coil would stop the heat from getting to the pump or tank, and unless you had a buildup of scale in the tube, it should last a long time.

There is actually a better way that does not involve a pump using a steam pulse setup which would use the heat to pump the fluid, but you would still have to have some way to turn it off or it would boil all the washer fluid.

I used to build them to humidify the air in rooms with freestanding gas heaters. They were neat, and gave out little puffs of steam with no moving parts. Just a pan of water and some fine copper tubing.
 
way to much of a pain, it looks like a good idea tho.

for $15 i picked up a washer bottle with built in sprayer out of a 88 k5 this morning fron the bone yard
 
The in-tank setups are far better than the old ones IMO.

Are you going to convert to the later wiper arm-mounted nozzles too? I'd do that too if I were you.
 
when i was out in the yard this morning i found that 88, im not sure what is all their as far as wiper arms and thigs like that their was a foot of snow on everything and i didnt feel like dealing with it after i got the bottle out. im going to go back and see what is all their once the snow melts. for now im going to use the stock sprayers
 
For electric heat of the washer bottle, a simple resistive coil - like a bottle warmer or a seat heater - makes a lot more sense than a thermoelectric device. It also seems like you could maybe get warm fluid before the engine is up to temp. This is a real plus because the only advantage I can see to heated washer fluid is to save you from scraping the windshield. All antifreeze fluid helps get the ice off, but if the fluid was actually above freezing it would be much faster.

You could maybe use a rear window defroster controller or a seat heater controller on it. But again, you still have to use low temp washer fluid since only the tank is heated and not the rest of the lines.

I think the best would be an on-demand flow-through type heater that could give instant warm fluid, for instant de-icing. Is there something like that used with diesel fuel, maybe? Or take the heater from a 12V coffee pot.
 
FWIW, these are what I was talking about: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3b67e235&vxp=mtr

And they do get painfully warm to the touch. They are also chinese, so they could either burn your truck to the ground, or stop working within .5mS of firing them up the first time.

I saw someone online had rigged those up as side view mirror defrosters, and cracked the mirror glass shortly. I have a similar intent, but attach them to the stainless portion of the mirror, and rely on them heating the air, not the glass directly. This is why I'd want to change the washer tank over to a metal piece. No point in heating it if you can't get it warmed up fast.

Additionally, not sure how bad it is, if at all, to "stall" the wiper motor, but you'd need to be able to run the pump separate of the wiper motor if you were trying to "unfreeze" your windshield with heated fluid.
 
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