0-150 gauge ? ? ? what for ?
Trans line pressure test. To properly set the tv cable on the 700r4. I have the bowtie overdrives tv cable adaptors setup.
The 0-150 isnt enough. Need to get a 0-300 psi.
CK5
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Metal's LSx swap; Finally up and running!
- Thread starter metalneverdies
- Start date
Trans line pressure test. To properly set the tv cable on the 700r4. I have the bowtie overdrives tv cable adaptors setup.
The 0-150 isnt enough. Need to get a 0-300 psi.
oh . . . o.k. I got ya now.
Well I seem to have the TV sticking issue. Ordered a correction kit from bowtie overdrives. Turns out its a shift kit and a tv valve modification kit. I am going to see if I can just do the TV valve portion. Otherwise I will have to cut out my freshly installed exhaust to see if I can even remove all the 2nd piston for upgrades!
I dont even know if I can pull the PR valve, lockup valve, 2nd piston accumulator valve, or line bias valve with the trans in the vehicle.
What a pain in the ass.
I dont even know if I can pull the PR valve, lockup valve, 2nd piston accumulator valve, or line bias valve with the trans in the vehicle.
What a pain in the ass.
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Well just got in touch with bowtie overdrives. I am not as frustrated now. They said "if tv sticking is the only issue I can just install the tv mod and I will be fine". I was just worried modifying the tv and leaving the rest stock would cause issues. They say it should be totally fine.
tv issues
Well.... I got the TV kit installed. At idle in park I am still not able to get below 115 psi. Bowtie says it should be at 75-80 psi at idle. I am so at my whits end on getting this stupid thing going. Getting really tired of throwing money at fixing the Throttle valve.
I am also wondering if maybe I ended up bruning up my voltage gauge. Any ideas on diagnosing the gauge? Alt still charges and the gauge needle is fully horizontal to the left side of the gauge.
Well.... I got the TV kit installed. At idle in park I am still not able to get below 115 psi. Bowtie says it should be at 75-80 psi at idle. I am so at my whits end on getting this stupid thing going. Getting really tired of throwing money at fixing the Throttle valve.
I am also wondering if maybe I ended up bruning up my voltage gauge. Any ideas on diagnosing the gauge? Alt still charges and the gauge needle is fully horizontal to the left side of the gauge.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Fraid im of no help. I guess pull the dash apart and use a voltage tester on the pins where the volt gauge goes?
Yeah that was going to be my next step. To be honest I was so frustrated with it all that I just had to stop for the night.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Believe me, i understand. Its the worst because you just want to make progress! And then you just end up making no progress, and getting pissed.
tennbowtie
1/2 ton status
If your using stock gauges you can have my old one, I just changed all of mine out with auto meter stuff.
I am using stock gauges. Let me see if I have power and ground going to my gauge before we start shipping parts.
I really do appreciate your offer!
need a 700r4 expert
Well, I just got off the phone with Bowtie again. Told them my re-tested pressures and he seems to think my max pressures are low. Says the car trans usuay runs near 300 psi in rev. And around 180-200 in od, d, 2, and 1.
The photo has my pressures and temps. First column is tv connected and engine at idle. Second is disconnected at idle. Third is tv disconnected pulled all the way out and power braking the truck to around 1500 rpm.
He was worried before about my idle pressure. This time he didnt / wouldnt comment on it. I was told to give it a test drive and see how it shifts. They said it shouldnt burn up but it might shift sluggishly.
Really hoping for a second opinion on my pressures and if it is safe to drive. It takes a lot of cable movement to get the boost to come up at idle.
Well, I just got off the phone with Bowtie again. Told them my re-tested pressures and he seems to think my max pressures are low. Says the car trans usuay runs near 300 psi in rev. And around 180-200 in od, d, 2, and 1.
The photo has my pressures and temps. First column is tv connected and engine at idle. Second is disconnected at idle. Third is tv disconnected pulled all the way out and power braking the truck to around 1500 rpm.
He was worried before about my idle pressure. This time he didnt / wouldnt comment on it. I was told to give it a test drive and see how it shifts. They said it shouldnt burn up but it might shift sluggishly.
Really hoping for a second opinion on my pressures and if it is safe to drive. It takes a lot of cable movement to get the boost to come up at idle.
I have an awesome tranny guy in Midlothian, Tx.
PM me and I can send you his #, he should be able to help you.
PM me and I can send you his #, he should be able to help you.
quick test drive
Well, I went for a quick test drive this weekend. I still need to hook up my PCM VSS so I am hoping that and the transmission issues explain my extreme lack of power. The truck only drives slightly better than how it did with the worn out old 350. That is pitiful considering I deleted all emissions and am running a performance tune on premium fuel.
I am not sure what the issues are with the trans; but it doesn't down shift properly when accelerating and it almost feels like it doesn't actually go into first when driving in D or OD.
It also seems none of the electric gauges work on my dash. I didn't even change anything with the oil pressure gauge! It uses the stock gauge and it was pegged at 60 Psi for the longest time. After a bit of time on the test drive it dropped to 15 Psi and wont move. My fuel gauge was stuck on half a tank, no movement like normal when stopping or turning; now it shows below empty. Voltage gauge still doesn't work.
I ran the wire for the voltage gauge off the stud on the back of the alt. Is it possible it was seeing too much amperage off of that point and fried my dash?
I did not have a chance to call the shop Teck recommended about the trans. I will try to do that later this week.
Well, I went for a quick test drive this weekend. I still need to hook up my PCM VSS so I am hoping that and the transmission issues explain my extreme lack of power. The truck only drives slightly better than how it did with the worn out old 350. That is pitiful considering I deleted all emissions and am running a performance tune on premium fuel.
I am not sure what the issues are with the trans; but it doesn't down shift properly when accelerating and it almost feels like it doesn't actually go into first when driving in D or OD.
It also seems none of the electric gauges work on my dash. I didn't even change anything with the oil pressure gauge! It uses the stock gauge and it was pegged at 60 Psi for the longest time. After a bit of time on the test drive it dropped to 15 Psi and wont move. My fuel gauge was stuck on half a tank, no movement like normal when stopping or turning; now it shows below empty. Voltage gauge still doesn't work.
I ran the wire for the voltage gauge off the stud on the back of the alt. Is it possible it was seeing too much amperage off of that point and fried my dash?
I did not have a chance to call the shop Teck recommended about the trans. I will try to do that later this week.
FINALLY up and running
Well, it is finally up and running. Only thing left to do now is chase a couple small exhaust leaks from blind welding of the pipe connections and wrapping up the exhaust that runs on the fuel line side of the truck.
Way more high rpm power. Smoother too. no torque in comparison to the old 350. Pretty trippy maxing out first gear at 45 mph and 2nd at 75 mph though compared to the old 350 lol
I am getting crazy bad mpgs though. Driving like an absolute asshole I get 11.8 mpg. Driving normal to / from work mostly highway and a couple short errands I only got 13.2 mpg. That is terrible considering I only have a 4" lift with the stock front air skirt, 31 (measure 28"tall) bridge stone dueler A/T tires. Super street friendly tread.
Wonder if running a couple tanks for Techron through the engine will get me some better MPG's.
Smells a little rich on acceleration, but I am not running a cat so that is probably most of it. I have a "performance tune" set to run premium fuel to get better MPG's.
Well, it is finally up and running. Only thing left to do now is chase a couple small exhaust leaks from blind welding of the pipe connections and wrapping up the exhaust that runs on the fuel line side of the truck.
Way more high rpm power. Smoother too. no torque in comparison to the old 350. Pretty trippy maxing out first gear at 45 mph and 2nd at 75 mph though compared to the old 350 lol
I am getting crazy bad mpgs though. Driving like an absolute asshole I get 11.8 mpg. Driving normal to / from work mostly highway and a couple short errands I only got 13.2 mpg. That is terrible considering I only have a 4" lift with the stock front air skirt, 31 (measure 28"tall) bridge stone dueler A/T tires. Super street friendly tread.
Wonder if running a couple tanks for Techron through the engine will get me some better MPG's.
Smells a little rich on acceleration, but I am not running a cat so that is probably most of it. I have a "performance tune" set to run premium fuel to get better MPG's.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
That is a tad low. I would expect more like 14.5 overall average.
Wow, I was really hoping for 17ish. I figured the lack of emission stuff plus tune on premium would help me get atleast stock mpg of better. I could pull in 15 mpg with the old 350.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
That's pretty good. On the highway I could see 17. '12 with the 5.3,3.42 gears, and double overdrive Trans only does 15 combined overall average. But the highway sees as high as 22.
I am going to talk with eagle mark and see if there is anything we can do to increase my mpgs.
Smaller foot and push less!!! 
First thing is the speedometer accurate?
I don't remember doing a premium only tune on that? Maybe? I'll look later to see what I did. If you;ve been running anything but primiumnit will take a tank or two to relearn spark curve. There's a low octane and high octane spark table and it's constantly forcing knock to see how far it can go. If you have a scan tool you can see what GM.ASPARK is registering as far as percent, anything less then 100% and your not in High Octane table.
High octane really helps the highway MPG, not so much around town.
First thing is the speedometer accurate?
I don't remember doing a premium only tune on that? Maybe? I'll look later to see what I did. If you;ve been running anything but primiumnit will take a tank or two to relearn spark curve. There's a low octane and high octane spark table and it's constantly forcing knock to see how far it can go. If you have a scan tool you can see what GM.ASPARK is registering as far as percent, anything less then 100% and your not in High Octane table.
High octane really helps the highway MPG, not so much around town.
