Greg, i'm still not 100% sure why most of these 496 stroker kits use a (.250") longer rod but i'm going to find out for sure. Like i said before though, i'm pretty sure it has to do with easier machining assembly with less clearance problems.
4X4HIGH said:Greg, i'm still not 100% sure why most of these 496 stroker kits use a (.250") longer rod but i'm going to find out for sure. Like i said before though, i'm pretty sure it has to do with easier machining assembly with less clearance problems.
Sandrat said:I just got done building a 496 and can shed some light on the longer rod issue. The main reason for putting the .250 longer rod is to bring the crank/rod ratio back closer to stock after increasing the stroke from 4.0 inches to 4.250 inches.
When using the longer rod with the 4.250 crank you will also need to use a custom piston that has the wrist pin farther up on the piston. On these pistons, the wrist pin actually gets into the the bottom of the oil ring.
You can use the stock length rod with the stroker crank, but most engine builders do not suggest it because it puts a lot of stress of the skirts of the pistons/cylinders.
A good place to find a lot of info on BBC build ups is www.chevelles.com
Sandrat said:I just got done building a 496 and can shed some light on the longer rod issue. The main reason for putting the .250 longer rod is to bring the crank/rod ratio back closer to stock after increasing the stroke from 4.0 inches to 4.250 inches.
When using the longer rod with the 4.250 crank you will also need to use a custom piston that has the wrist pin farther up on the piston. On these pistons, the wrist pin actually gets into the the bottom of the oil ring.
You can use the stock length rod with the stroker crank, but most engine builders do not suggest it because it puts a lot of stress of the skirts of the pistons/cylinders.
A good place to find a lot of info on BBC build ups is www.chevelles.com

Greg72 said:Do you want to share any other specs on your 496?
I'd be curious to know if you bought the stroker parts as a "kit" from a vendor like Speed-O-Motive, or if you pieced it together yourself?
Did you do a roller cam? Any model #'s or cam specs?
Have you dyno'ed your engine (chassis or engine) to see what she puts down for HP/TQ?
It sounds like Scott is shooting for about a 9.0:1 CR on mine based on using a flat top piston and based on the CC's of the heads after final surfacing. Ideally it would be nice to be up in the 9.3 or 9.5:1 range, but he told me we'd be into the realm of domed pistons and would probably have to machine them for valve clearance.......sounded like a real pain in the wallet!!!![]()

Greg72 said:BTP,
Here's what the current CamQuest assumptions look like:
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You can take a look at the recommended cam and see if you agree with their assessment....interestingly the software only recommends ONE cam for this engine given the criteria I provided.
The only thing I'm not sure of is the flow numbers for the 781s with larger valves. Scott found a website that had accurate flow numbers for the big valve 781s, but I can't remember if this calc has those or not.
Here's the link to the flow numbers:
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#BBChevy
Anyway, Scott has a friend with a flowbench and if I'm willing to pay $85 for his time he will measure my heads and give me 100% accurate numbers to plug into CamQuest. That could be very cool data to have.
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Sandrat said:I am wondering why the lift is so low on a this roller cam? This defeats the purpose of using a roller cam and a set of good flowing heads like the 781's.
I think you will be leaving a lot of power on the table if you go with this type of cam. With the power peaking around 4500 rpm peanut port heads would suffice. Big Blocks can take a lot of lift and duration and still remain very streetable while making great power and torque.
Another thing I noticed is you have the heads entered as wedge style chambers, big blocks chevys are cantered style heads.

Greg72 said:I think the program shows lift at the lobe, not the valve?? I'm not sure what the "standard" rocker ratio is (1.6?) so maybe that is what's making those numbers look a little "weak" in the program....
The CamQuest program doesn't really let you screw around with cam specs the way that DD2000 does, but I can use the recommended ones from CQ and then run some "iterations" in DD2000 and see what happens with the HP/TQ.
I wouldn't mind trading off a bit of that TQ for a some more top end HP, but the whole purpose of this motor is to move a lot of weight (heavy truck) and TQ is what's going to get that done.
As for the question of economy.....who knows? I get 7MPG now with the 350SBC, how much worse could it get.![]()
Sandrat said:The lift specs you entered are at the valve, this includes the 1.7 rocker ratio.
I would like to see what the power looks like if you entered the cam specs listed in my 496. I think you would see a more fun/usable power band.

Greg72 said:I will put your specs into DD2000 just for fun.....I'd be interested to see what the differences are.
What was the C.R. on that original motor?
Was the cam installed straight-up or advanced?
Any other "special" info I'd need to know to accurately build the model?
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