CK5
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Motor Swap - Complete!

Seeing as you are in rust free California, I would pull the radiator support as well. It isn't much work, and makes it a much easier job.

Martin

Definitely worth considering. My main objection to that is the trans, oil, and PS coolers that are mounted to it.

Plus lights, exterior temp sensor, dual battery solenoid, relay/circuit breaker plate for Headlight mod, all individual headlight grounds......


Sounds like i just convinced myself otherwise. haha. I'll see what my hoist setup looks like, and decide when i get there. :doah:
 
Yes! There's only 2 oils I know of that have enough Zinc and Phousphourus for flat tappet cams without additives (some additives are not zinc and phousphorus) Amsoil full synthetic clearly marked with Zinc and phousphorus and Brad Penn racing oil. Neither of which I've ever seen at a store!
As I said, some additives are not Zinc and Phosphorous. I have no idea if ZDDP is adequate?

I've always run the 10w/40 Amsoil. Instant oil pressure at -10 degree days and never a tick from motor at cold start.

This oil lasts forever with a good filter like Wix, or Napa Gold which is a Wix. 3,000 miles change filter and add a quart of oil.

Sent off a sample of my oil and it's perfect.... 12,000 miles, 4 filters and four quarts of oil... I don't use any oil in 3,000 miles and have no leaks.
 
more tips....

take two drill screws per side and run them into the hinge/hood .. them pull them both back out ...voila.....you have just made re-aligning your hood a breeze...

buy a 24" 3/8 drive extension and a 9/16 wobbly socket...volia.... you can now reach the top two bolts on the bell housing from under the truck....

buy a 2" wide ratchet strap....voila....you now have something to support your transmission without having to balance it on a floor jack... hook one end of the strap to the inside of the frame rail....then under the trans near the front of the pan... hook the other side of the strap to the other frame rail.....ratchet that bitch tight...done

when you disconnect the torque converter ....push it back into the transmission...as soon as you have the motor out....bolt a piece of small chain across the face of the transmission so that the converter will not fall out if you have to move the truck to clean under it etc.

rent a pressure washer if you don't have one.....pressure wash the engine compartment.....worth every penny spent doing this....

Take pictures of wiring and hoses prior to pulling the motor....something to look at it you get stummped on where something belongs....

leave the exhaust manifolds attached to the exhaust pipes....pull them back and wire them out of the way....

pull the front tires and drop the rotors down onto some 2x4's ..... you don't have to lift the engine so high.

good luck !!:D
 
I R&R my motor solo and did not even remove the radiator. I just put a sheet of plywood in front of it to protect it. I could not imagine getting the motor out without removing the hood on the other hand.
Don't stress about oil either. While the advise about the roller cam is good, there are plenty of these motors started up successfully with flat tappet hydrollic cams and no problems. Just use good oil and additive and follow the GM procedures.
Here is a link to Crane Cams break-in lube:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIQ176...e=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B000CIQ176
 
Man there's a bunch of good tips in this thread, most of which I use and don't even think about anymore.

Best one is the pressure washer!!! Clean it up before you start!

Amsoil is gods gift to motors. Best oil money can buy period. Very pricey but well worth it.
Not expensive at all compared to the price of a worn out motor!
:woot:
 
Oh... I forgot one.....

take two 3" x 3/8" bolts and cut the heads off.....slightly grind the shafts at an angle where you just cut the heads off.....clamp them in a vise and take a hacksaw and cut a slot in the same end of each bolt where the head was...

when you install the motor,,,, hand thread one into each of the far right and far left bottom of the block......when you drop the motor in the two studs will now line up the bell housing for you as you shove the motor in.... once you have the dowel pins engaged and the block is flush with the bellhousing....start two bolts and lightly tighten them down....

You can now remove the two lineup studs you made....

if needed,,, use the screwdriver slots you cut in the ends to help remove them..... then toss them in your tool box for next time...:waytogo:
 
When you screw your knock sensor into the new block, make sure the threads in the block are clean (no paint).
 
I believe Kendall oil "with liquid titanium" still has the necessary additives.

Edit: I'm referring to every day use, I still used a breaking additive.
 
I used royal purple break in oil.

Still have great oil pressure and the motor runs great so I say it works just fine
 
I would pull the radiator, just for the simple fact you can clean it out real good. Then you know you have a good mix of antifreeze. Here, thats a big deal as I have seen alot of motors and worked on alot with cracked blocks. As freeze plugs for some reason dont pop.
 
I would pull the radiator, just for the simple fact you can clean it out real good. Then you know you have a good mix of antifreeze. Here, thats a big deal as I have seen alot of motors and worked on alot with cracked blocks. As freeze plugs for some reason dont pop.
his rad/ cooler system is all brand new
 
I believe Kendall oil "with liquid titanium" still has the necessary additives.

Edit: I'm referring to every day use, I still used a breaking additive.
I think Kendall is now Brad Penn?

We did tests on oil back in early 90s on Harleys in AZ summer heat. Since I had 2 Harleys, one with Side Car I was volunteered... Oils was all tested first in a lab where a guy worked, government proving ground. Only 2 oils then handled tests. Kendall and Harley oil that we later found out was made by Kendall.

Kendall was also the only oil you would find at the VW sand rail shops.

Kendall also passed all real world tests on my Harley with Side Car. Biggest issue was transmission would be very hard to shift after awhile. This was also cured with Synthetic gear oil.
 
So, new bolts, threadlock.

Anywhere crucial i should be replacing bolts? Torque converter? Intake manifold?

Anywhere specific that MUST have red or blue locktite?
 
As others have said, removing the hood is well worth the hassle of having to adjust it later on.

Go ahead and do the motor mounts. there will never be an easier time, and if you go to headers you may find them virtually impossible to do with the headers on. Odds are the one's on there are shot, and stock replacements are only about $10.

A leveler makes the job a lot easier, particularly if you don't have a second set of hands. Make sure the hoist is big enough. You can rent one for about 30-40 bucks a day, one with a 2 ton capacity was plenty large enough for me.

If you're thinking about upgrading the cam or any other parts in the engine, now is the time to do it. If you're generous with the assembly lube like I was, have an exit strategy as it will pour out smoke at first.

I put all the accessories on the engine with the exception of the distributor before dropping it in. I went ahead and pulled the radiator because it was easy and to prevent damage. There is a lot of room to work.

Grab some beers and have fun! It's a satisfying project.
 
Definitely doing motor mounts, but thanks for the reminder!

Wasn't too excited about this idea originally, but getting excited with all the good advice and explanation of things i didn't understand!

Swap date will be nailed down as soon as i get shipping confirmation from Jegs. Supposed to ship truck freight today.
 
Definitely doing motor mounts, but thanks for the reminder!

Wasn't too excited about this idea originally, but getting excited with all the good advice and explanation of things i didn't understand!

Swap date will be nailed down as soon as i get shipping confirmation from Jegs. Supposed to ship truck freight today.
lift gate to your house is well worth the extra $10 or 20. or do you have to pick it up at a terminal?
 
lift gate to your house is well worth the extra $10 or 20. or do you have to pick it up at a terminal?


Really good question. I have no idea. But, given that its Jegs, and there was no mention of having to pick it up somewhere, i assumed it was lift gate service to my house.

Its marked as shipped, but i have no tracking yet. We shall see.

Whats one of these weigh? I'm thinking i remember like 4-500lbs?

Should be light enough to be able to tip up the pallet onto some dollys and roll into the garage.
 

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