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My '70 C/10 - The Rat Bastard... [Won't Idle.]

Not a tow truck.
The most it will EVAR haul, is a motor/trans.

And, what's yer definition of 'high' stall?
I bought a 2200 stall.

And, I know a good amount about clear, at this point in my life. :haha:
Its just a rattle can clear.
Not permanent by any means.
Just to hold me over until I care to do the body work/paint.
 
I'm sure you know Mike, that stall figure can be variably achieved by engine output and throttle applied....a 3000 stall convertor might flash to 2600 on a mild small block, but might flash at 3200 for a stout bigblock. normal (relative term) acceleration (not needing to flash to stall rpm) will bring typical movement of the vehicle, and thus only using a limited amount of torque that the engine is capable of producing. So if you want to light the tires up, nail the throttle hard and flash the engine up to convertor stall point, for regular driving you will probably see some slippage of the convertor, so be sure to use a large cooler too.
 
Btw....

I just pulled the other cylinder head.
After that, I was poking the cam with mah finger, and it slid....
Like: HOLY SH*T!

I measured.... With heads/lifters out, it has .220" of end play.
WTF!? :eek1:
 
If it's a flat tappet cam I think that is fine. If I remember right the cam lobes have a slight taper to them that pushes against the lifters to hold the cam against the distributor gear.
 
tis true on the cam grind....the cam lobes are slightly offset ground with a taper, and the lifters have a convex grind to them to provide rotation...so when your engine is running the pushrods should rotate. Roller cams are not ground the same, which is whey they require a retainer plate or a cam button to hold them in position in the block.
 
Brown Santa dropped some chit off, today...

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Excellent. Very interested in how the harness install goes.

If you decide to do any "de-chroming" let me know. I'm looking for a couple pieces.
 
bigjbear said:
Excellent. Very interested in how the harness install goes.

If you decide to do any "de-chroming" let me know. I'm looking for a couple pieces.
Click to expand...

I'll take pics of the harness install, and stuff.... :pimp:
This EZ-21 is so comprehensive, I can't even decide where to start. :thumb:

The instructions are FANTASTIC!!
The first thing they do... Is EXPLAIN WHY THE DIRECTIONS ARE RIGHT!
(Winning)
Plain, clear English.
The IMPORTANT stuff is HIGHLIGHTED, it really helps.
I stops you from GLAZING OVER. :pimp:

The instructions are written by a HUMAN.
A human that installed these in 12 DIFFERENT GM vehicles. (They mention it.) :haha:
So, he actually has perspective.... Unlike an engineer. :whistle::thumb:

The instructions break down the process CORRECTLY.
From planning what circuits you need now, to keeping extras for later.
Constantly reminding you to label/note/indicate the changes you make.
Start-to-finish.... Breaks down each vehicle section, easily. :waytogo:

The harness is seperated into Front, Engine, EZ-Dash, and Rear sections.
The directions go one section at-a-time, with special notes for each part.

The kit comes with EVERYTHING you need.
The descriptions of the Misc. parts, made me laugh:
"30 plus insulated Terminals and some Small cable ties." :haha:

(See.... Real human.)

Anyhow.
The kit has everything.
All the way down to headlight/taillight/and switch plugs....
Hell it even comes with the Neutral Saftey Switch, Alt bypass, fusible links, and extra wires.

:popcorn:

--------------- Chrome-wise, I'll let you know..........
 
Does each wire say where it goes? My painless harness had that and it was realllyyyy nice.
 
Gutted all the Factory electrical, today.
Glad I did....

Almost every wire had a split somewhere.
Some worse than others.
A few probably would've started fires, eventually.

Glad I'm not depending on 43 year old wiring. :waytogo:
 
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