What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

My '70 C/10 - The Rat Bastard... [Won't Idle.]

What should I set my rev limiter at?
I'm not there, yet.... But, am curious.

I've read everything from 6,000-8,000 (on occasion), for the 375/396's.
But, I have a 310/396....

Lower compression (I think 8.5:1), so I assume a lower redline, correct?

Any ideas?
 
Babaganoosh said:
Turn key, smash pedal down, read tach a few hundred less. :thumb::haha:
Click to expand...

The redneck torque wrench: Turn till it breaks, then back off half a turn. :surepal:

TheBeast_88K5 said:
I started spinning yesterday, and had to take a break from standing... :haha:
Vertigo type spins.

Not good... :doah:
Click to expand...

I don't think this is what they mean by "spin class." :doah:

Also, hydration can be missed in this season especially. I forget sometimes and suffer for it, including dizziness and such :(

-- A
 
Last edited:
are you making time to eat?
 
dremu said:
The redneck torque wrench: Turn till it breaks, then back off half a turn. :surepal:



I don't think this is what they mean by "spin class." :doah:

Also, hydration can be missed in this season especially. I forget sometimes and suffer for it, including dizziness and such :(

-- A
Click to expand...

I was being a smartbutt obviously joking. :haha:
 
dremu said:
The redneck torque wrench: Turn till it breaks, then back off half a turn. :surepal:



I don't think this is what they mean by "spin class." :doah:

Also, hydration can be missed in this season especially. I forget sometimes and suffer for it, including dizziness and such :(

-- A
Click to expand...

:haha:


62 fat guy said:
are you making time to eat?
Click to expand...
It's funny.... I think only car-guys would even think to ask that... :haha:
"are you actually making time to eat, at some point?" :haha:

And, the answer is..... Not really. :doah:

I know it was blood sugar that made me spin....
I know cuz it wasn't gradual.
I just tanked, all of a sudden.

Dehydration spins are less severe.
These were the, "lets lay on hot concrete, cuz I ain't standing up no more" spins. :doah:

Drank a bunch of water, ate some food, and took a day off.
I slept for 9 hours that night.
I normally only sleep 4 hours per night, so I woke up DESTROYED.
Waaaaaay too much sleep. :doah:

Oh well... Back to the killin myself, tomoro.
At least I'm on the downhill slope of this build. :waytogo:
 
us old Harley guys do that too...:whistle:
 
I try not to take my engines over 5000 rpm but I also don't have a built big block either. When I raced my 327 without a tach I'm sure that lil biatch went
Over 5000 but I also didn't Care if I blew it because I had a built 355 to throw in after I trashed that one. I would think a well built ballenced big block could handle over 6 easily.
 
Factory big blocks don't like a lot of rpm. If you want to spin it up then you have to upgrade the cast bottom end and valvetrain. But every engine is different so once its driving, nail the throttle until you feel the power drop off and that is your redline.
 
Chevy305 said:
Factory big blocks don't like a lot of rpm. If you want to spin it up then you have to upgrade the cast bottom end and valvetrain. But every engine is different so once its driving, nail the throttle until you feel the power drop off and that is your redline.
Click to expand...

You mean forged bottom end.
Cast is stock.
:D:p
 
Got a couple little things done, today...


- Swapped the dome light for LED.
- Added a 3rd brake light.
- Figured out my Door Jamb switch situation... :D

Tomoro, I need to pick up metal for both my shifter, and my Jamb switch mounts.
Forgot I need a trans-pan gasket, or I would've been fitting my drivetrain today.

Tomoro should be fun.
 
Really, on the BB, the valvetrain is your weaker point compared to the bottom end. A set of ARP rod studs and it will take a pretty decent amount of HP and RPM before imploding. You will explode a rocker or destroy a pushrod/rocker stud before anything MOST likely. But then in reality, even with ARP studs, roller rockers, roller cam and stock heads, your power is done by at the very very most 5200 or so, so really no need to take it to 6000. But, I take my Vortec 454 there on the regular just to see what happens.
 
So.... Door Jamb Switches.
I wanted some... I installed some. :pimp:

Mine currently ground the Dome and Courtesy lights.
They will ground a relay that activates my Trainhorn, very soon. *Devious Anti-Theft

Disarming my alarm will deactivate the relay's power. :D

0507b155a399a800c6deba72208268a8.jpg


a8e93512262eb153205b60de62963405.jpg


a348916487a2cb59f3cc6d41b1eacd94.jpg


b9abc8f9f53c0722aaa10b68d8378afe.jpg
 
454Sub said:
Really, on the BB, the valvetrain is your weaker point compared to the bottom end. A set of ARP rod studs and it will take a pretty decent amount of HP and RPM before imploding. You will explode a rocker or destroy a pushrod/rocker stud before anything MOST likely. But then in reality, even with ARP studs, roller rockers, roller cam and stock heads, your power is done by at the very very most 5200 or so, so really no need to take it to 6000. But, I take my Vortec 454 there on the regular just to see what happens.
Click to expand...

I figured a safe bet, would be setting the limiter at 5K.
Can't wait to hear a 402 bounce the rev limiter, at 5K RPM... :woot:
 
TheBeast_88K5 said:
I figured a safe bet, would be setting the limiter at 5K.
Can't wait to hear a 402 bounce the rev limiter, at 5K RPM... :woot:
Click to expand...

I heard my 408 spin past 6500 once in the dunes when I was in 4 lo and hit a bump and pulled it into first on accident :doah:


'twas skerry
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom