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My '70 C/10 - The Rat Bastard... [Won't Idle.]

My '70 C/10 - The Rat Bastard... [Ugh...]

Did you replace ALL of the wiring in the engine bay? These first gens had a resister wire feeding the distributor that you need to replace with real non-resister wire if you upgrade to newer ignition/msd. You probably got that figured out, but I thought I'd throw it out there just in case.
 
Okay, guys....

Gonna go out and start this mother'.
It's been airing out overnight, with the plugs out and air filter off.

Is there anything I should know/do.... Carbs are a new thing to me.
I get the concept and how they work, but do not know all the does/donts.
Or, just "put the plugs in, tap the throttle, and start?"
 
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I always had best luck just jumping in, pumping gas 2 or 3 times, and it usually fires up pretty quick. No choke can make it a pain around here, but you southern cali guys I imagine dont need it. I have ran them without chokes here as well, just takes more patience. Its almost like riding a bike, once you figure out how to fire it up it becomes second nature to get it started.
 
My BBC in my 65 Bel Air is a bitch to start most times when it has sat for a bit. It has a really hot cam and a QJ on it. I have to pump the gas like an epileptic mule while cranking to fire it up. Once it is warmed up I don't have any issues though.
 
After reading all the above; I'm beginning to think I need a new starter as well....
 
Not to be a total azz (only a partial one) remind me why you replaced the starter?

-- A

I killed it with the massive voltage drop.
And, starting it over and over.

A voltage drop will still turn a starter, but kill it in short order.
About 6 months is how long a new one will last.
I had gotten the original as a used one from Issaam.

The new Vortec starter is an upgrade that a lot of big block owners do.
It is not the problem, here.
The new one spins FAST.
 
After reading all the above; I'm beginning to think I need a new starter as well....

Voltage Drop Test the whole starting system, before you do anything.
Each individual circuit.

Its a MUST before ANY electrical diagnoses.
You cant even get accurate DVM readings, if you have a voltage drop at a ground.
Bad ground = bad readings.
 
I cant get to it today.

Tomoro, I'll put the plugs in it, Check the shift linkage, and crank it.
I really dont think its dragging, tho.
I spent a good hour, or so, setting the linkage adjustment.
 
Pull the plugs and try to crank it. Will at least tell you if the binding is mechanical in the motor or trans.

I did that.

With the last starter it spun a bit faster.
This new starter spins the motor over a lot faster.
Plugs or not.

I think I just flooded it.
Or, possibly have another issue.
Ignition/timing related.

I get why people pay mechanics...
If I had no mechanical knowledge, I'd hand this sh*t over, too! :haha:
 
I killed it with the massive voltage drop.
And, starting it over and over.

A voltage drop will still turn a starter, but kill it in short order.
About 6 months is how long a new one will last.
I had gotten the original as a used one from Issaam.

The new Vortec starter is an upgrade that a lot of big block owners do.
It is not the problem, here.
The new one spins FAST.

Fair 'nuff. I thought the old one worked fine and you upgraded just because.

I've spent the last few years and a whole lot of money fixing the "upgrades" I did to my truck. And by "fix" I mean "undoing and putting back the way it was" :doah:

-- A
 

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