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My '73 K10 Build

Progress today.
Finally got the old radiator, trans cooler, and Condenser out.
Trans cooler is getting an upgrade.
Wondering if I might use the old cooler for PS cooler if it checks out and cleans up ok.
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Now I got a clearer shot at the front of the motor I thought I better mock up a few parts to see if the are any issues.

Looks like PS reservoir is accessible thru Alternator bracket. Something I was concerned about.
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Mocked up AC compressor bracket, but have to drill and tap 2 bolt holes in the pass side head as I only have one currently.
I have the machined pads, just they are not drilled and tapped.
I setup the bracket and marked the hole positions with a transfer punch.
Did a quick check that the water pump fits too.

Now I have it pretty clear I can retap and helicoil the crank snout, reseal the timing cover, fuel pump cover plate, and move on to the pass side engine mount and exhaust.
Then maybe I can get on with the EFI setup!

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Kinda took weekend off…
Working over the slam panel on Friday left my chest kinda bruised… must remember to put a movers blanket across there!

Advice needed…
So I asked before about the steering box brace, and that’s on my list….
But while I was on their site I saw the rear shackle flip brackets….
I dislike the lift blocks that are on the rear currently… is the shackle flip an improvement snd why?
I looked at other stuff for the front end, like twin shock conversations and dual steering dampers… crossover steering looks good but wasn’t sure if that was overkill…
I also have an Airbag setup that was on my 3/4 t Suburban… it was a tow monster… was thinking to put them on this as the camper shell and carrying gear would sag the rear end…
I would value any input that would make this “Overland/Wilderness” rig better, more capable on and off-road…
Thoughts?
 
Twin shocks up front won’t work better than a single mono tube Bilstien per side.
 
Thanks.
I’m gonna be adding weight with winch and HD bumper, so wanted some input.
Of course I want 4 link etc… but trying to be realistic and cost effective.
 
AC condenser arrived yesterday… hope to do a pre-fit today.
Spent some time on the phone with Vintage Air… wonderful stuff they make but spending $2000 on this truck for AC is not viable.
They were very helpful, but said the 508 style compressor will struggle to produce cold air with the old OEM evaporator.
He referred me to another company called Old Air products, and the guy there Joe was very helpful.
I explained my situation, and he was great.
He explained the 508 compressor is small, and will struggle to provide enough r134a refrigerant for the system. He said my new parallel flow condenser will help, but there is not a “Modern” evaporator available for my truck yet. Short of updating and replacing the whole HVAC system($1600) he said the best option was to change the 508 compressor to a 709, which fits on my brackets but it bigger and has more output. He said this is the best middle ground between OEM and Modern and should provide acceptable performance.
They can supply a new 709 compressor for $250, plus a $125 hose kit, and fitting that will allow me to connect new to old.
I think this is a reasonable result and direction.
 
It’s close but no cigar…
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I gotta analyze it and figure out how to squeeze it in wil little to no body cutting.
I don’t want to do anything that can’t be reversed on this old girls body.
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Tried to get the new timing chain cover on and it refused to line up…
So pulled the oil pan, well it was weeping anyway, so good excuse to use one piece gasket anyway.
That out of the way…

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I then put the timing cover on, and then installed the new crank damper. The old one showed signs of the elastomer cracking.
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Wasn’t sure I got the damper on fully and I was tired, so wanted to leave it for another day, where I had my “Feel” back.
This weekend, after my other commitments, I had little time, so hopefully this week.
I ordered a new, 7 qrt weiland oil pan…
When it arrives i will see if it fits.

Weiand 5001WND Oil Pan Kit- Fabricated https://a.co/d/jhmoh7K

I did look closely at my plan to add the bigger trans cooler, PS cooler, and engine oil cooler.
My thought is to add them in front of the new ac condenser. I don’t want to use the supplied zip tie style thru radiator mounting pads… so I’m thinking I will fabricate a frame that holds the cooler assembly as a whole.
Just research so far.
Three 8 pass trans coolers would work, but tight.
2x 8 pass and a 6 pass would be sweet… but I’m reading these tube and fin units are ok for transmission and OS but not recommended for engine oil coolers.
Mm.
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Cranked hard today.
First it was front radiator support polyurethane body mounts.
What an ordeal that was!
Got it done tho.
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Had to find a way to support the engine while the oil pan is off so I could remove the rh engine mount
A piece of aluminum bar worked good wedged between the head and frame leg.

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Of course I then used a safety with a trans Jack under the motor.

Took the whole motor mount out.
As expected, like the LH side it was toast.
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Mount will get cleaned, blasted and painted over the next few days , and polyurethane unit installed.

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Got the universal parallel ac condenser roughly in place. Had to cut off both end tank brackets to squeeze it in.
Drilled a hole in the rh radiator support for the lower fitting.
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It’s in!
I think it’s gotta go up a bit more more because
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The center support fouls at the moment.

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Original fitting almost meets the new fitting.
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KeyBlazer said:
So I’m just updating the thread with where I am currently and where I want to be…
But there are questions coming!

Example.
My frame is good around the steering box… but 35s and off-road… and heavy with the camper etc…
Should I get the ORD steering box brace?
Should I do the weld on reinforcement now, or with the brace it unlikely to crack?

Headers fitted great until I decided to upgrade the bolts, because the originals were too short with these 1/2 thick flanges... and they wouldn’t fit.
Some heat and beat ensued… good now
View attachment 417355

View attachment 417354

View attachment 417356
View attachment 417357

I decided to junk the original AC compressor and upgrade the Alternator from the 63a original.
Lots of reasons...
Original AC compressor bracket it on the header flange... restricts access the valve cover etc..

I bought the ICT billet mounting kit… and started test fitting using the original alternator.
I will Upgrade...
is 140a good enough, or is 200a too much for a V belt setup?
Truck will have 12k winch upfront, lots of offroad lights and 2x chassis batteries...

View attachment 417358


I am rebuilding the PS pump currently, so I need that all on, and in place before I move on the passenger side.
Click to expand...

KeyBlazer said:
So I’m just updating the thread with where I am currently and where I want to be…
But there are questions coming!

Example.
My frame is good around the steering box… but 35s and off-road… and heavy with the camper etc…
Should I get the ORD steering box brace?
Should I do the weld on reinforcement now, or with the brace it unlikely to crack?

Headers fitted great until I decided to upgrade the bolts, because the originals were too short with these 1/2 thick flanges... and they wouldn’t fit.
Some heat and beat ensued… good now
View attachment 417355

View attachment 417354

View attachment 417356
View attachment 417357

I decided to junk the original AC compressor and upgrade the Alternator from the 63a original.
Lots of reasons...
Original AC compressor bracket it on the header flange... restricts access the valve cover etc..

I bought the ICT billet mounting kit… and started test fitting using the original alternator.
I will Upgrade...
is 140a good enough, or is 200a too much for a V belt setup?
Truck will have 12k winch upfront, lots of offroad lights and 2x chassis batteries...

View attachment 417358


I am rebuilding the PS pump currently, so I need that all on, and in place before I move on the passenger side.
Click to expand...
I have found that any alternator output over about 110 amps requires a lot of belt tension for a single v belt. My Monte Carlo will squeal the belt if I run the battery down a little. I have to keep the belt tension very tight. Not good for bearings, but I'm not going to spend the money on a serpentine belt, just for a few belt squeals at the drag strip. lol
 
500$k5 said:
I have found that any alternator output over about 110 amps requires a lot of belt tension for a single v belt. My Monte Carlo will squeal the belt if I run the battery down a little. I have to keep the belt tension very tight. Not good for bearings, but I'm not going to spend the money on a serpentine belt, just for a few belt squeals at the drag strip. lol
Click to expand...
Something I was concerned about TBH...
 
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