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My '73 K10 Build

Ok.
So you suggest taking it off… or replacing it with something else?
Wouldn’t removing it increase torque reaction and risk other issues?
Is there a better solution?
 
Just leave it off, many trucks didn't have it from the factory. Just get a good poly or rubber mount for the t-case adaptor(get the same or softer as your engine mounts). The engine mounts should take all the torque. The t-case mounts should only hold it up basically. Too much torque resistance at the t-case can brake the adaptor or the transmission case itself.

You can bolt the brace to the t-case there that goes up to the bellhousing if you want, those are good if you can find one.
 
Got it.
I did a lot of research on this issue.
I’m not a heavy user/abuser, and that seems to be a factor.
My motor is stock, but im carrying some weight… my previous use, and future plan does not involve “Rock Crawling” or heavy shock loading… but it could happen…
I think I’ll roll as I am for now.

Had family in town so not much done this weekend. My son bought a nice used car so most of the weekend was spent inspecting, and figuring how nice it really was… turned out to be awesome!

Oil pan still in transit… looks like it will be here midweek.

New Power Steering cooler arrived.
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I need to find my BBC radiator now, that’s in my storage unit somewhere. Then I can get serious about dialing in my cooling package, and fabricating the support structure.
I also have a loadmaster airbag setup in there and I’d planned to add that to the rear suspension.
 
Oil pan arrived yesterday.
Looks sweet and my gut says the extra depth won’t be an issue, so it might work for my needs.
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I have ordered a Melling HV oil pump and ARP drive shaft, as my original pump is welded to the oil pickup.
 
So that done, it was the moment of truth…
Had to pull the original oil pump, as the pickup fouled the new baffle.
Confirmed it’s a std volume, std pressure Melling M55 unit.

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That out of the way, the new pan slotted straight in, and I secured it with a couple of bolts.

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Pan is theoretically only 5/8" or so lower than the original 5q pan, so not much and it still above the line of the headers and spring hangers...
I think it will be fine, and the extra safety margin of + 2 quarts and baffles and wings will keep the oil level in the pickup tube area constant on inclines.
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I was worried about oil filter clearance but its easy to get at and can be removed just fine!

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Pretty happy with that, and waiting for my new oil pump to arrive I double scrubbed the pass side of the motor, masked and painted.

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Left tgat to dry, and attacked that pass side motor mount.
Drilled the rivets… and it was bad.
Lol.

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Stripped all the oil and broken rubber off, and shot it with gloss black engine paint.
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Did you order the correct pickup tube for the deeper pan?
 
Oil pump arrived!

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Also my first electric fan arrived.
They rate it at 2400 cfm…
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Will see if it fits where I hope, in front of the condenser and trans cooler.
Worried if the original grill will fit without mods tho.
 
Built and mounted the passenger side polyurethane engin mount.

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With the support bar out of the way, touched up the engine paint.
Then it was time to drill the passenger side head for the two holes I’m missing for the ICT AC compressor bracket.
Mounted the bracket with the one bolt and leveled it. Transfer punched the two spots and spot drilled them.

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Both hikes didn’t fall where I expected them!
The outermost hole wasn’t on the pad at all, so I’ll put a washer behind the bracket so it doesn’t bend it.
I’d carefully measured the hole depth and checked, and the drill went in no problem, and I didn’t break into any water passages.

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Tapping went fine.
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Did a quick test fit of the header… same issues as the other side with no clearance for the longer bolts..
So that got some heat and beat.

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Took a pic of the drivers side.
Here is pass side above where the gas tank normally is.
You can see the “spray “ of under seal …
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I’m thinks some rust converting primer then a fresh coat of underseal?
 
Question:
When I pulled off the starter I realized the wiring is pretty grim... Multiple splices, burned insulation etc...
But just not the starter section... the whole engine bay looks kinda worn out...
As this truck is getting a pretty serious make over, Im wondering if I should put a new harness in...
Anyone done it?
Didnt know where to post the question...
 
I noticed you don’t have a bellhousing cover or you already took it off, if you don’t have a bell housing cover or the support rods I’d make sure you switch the trans mount to urethane as well, too much twist and you’ll get a cracked bellhousing, seen it many times with urethane on one set of mounts and the others rubber
 
I’ve searched everywhere for this HD cast aluminum flex plate shield/cover… no joy.
Am I using the wrong search term?
Maybe my truck never came with it.. or the rods…
 
Ah.
Found this …

Looks to me like it was never on the ‘73.
‘78 onwards.
Probably found there was an issue with earlier models.
If I could find that cast cover I might be able to replicate it to suit my rig.
 
It’s often referred to as a K case dust cover, does your trans have the 6 mounting holes for it? I can’t quite tell from the pics.
 
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