My '73 K10 Build

[KeyBlazer]

Its been a long time since I posted here!
I bought a one family owned '73 K10 in 2007 I think...
California Truck, 350/350/205, with AC.
She had been sitting for a while, but had a Rancho 4" lift and 33s...
This is what I bought... for $500...

 

[KeyBlazer]

It was a Father and son project to start with, but he eventually moved on to Jeeps and left me with it.

Even tho its a California truck it was used by the beach, so had some mild rust.
We replaced the Hood, fenders, and inner fenders.
We then decided to do a quick rustoleum roller paint job..

 

[KeyBlazer]

Looked presentable enough, but I wanted to see how good it could get, so I went crazy, sanding, and buffing....






Came out pretty good, but I decided I was being crazy, doing that much work for a truck that would be taking me offroad and get scuffed up etc,
So I put another coat on to give it a satin look...
About that time I got a deal on some 35s and some Dick Cepek DC1s.


Around that time I got a deal on a '73 K5...
But that is another thread someday...

 

[KeyBlazer]

I added Black leather bucket seats, and a free Callen Topper, off a Ford I think cos it was 4" too long...
Did some offroad camping and overlanding... moved house a couple of times...
So, that was pretty much how I ran her for 10 years.

 

[nvrenuf]

Cool truck and build, looking forward to more! Love the camper.

 

[KeyBlazer]

She sat on my drive from 2016 in Non-Op because the carb just played up constantly and she was not reliable.
But about a year ago I decided to bring her back to use.
I have a specific mission for the truck... to return to Offroading, Overlanding, and camping.

Started with the initial problem... had the carb rebuilt but they did a bad job, , and it ran worse, so I gave up on that idea, and went all in.
Engine was rebuild at some time, and still runs strong, with a solid 160-170 psi compression readings cold after sitting for maybe 5 years.

Bought a Holley complete EFI setup, electronic distributor, and Ignition box, and I am in the process of installing that now.
I bought an used Edelbrock performer intake... and media blasted and powedcoated it.
I also radiused the wall divider and added a spacer because I read that helps.

 

[KeyBlazer]

I have a lot of parts now that will be going on.
Added some bling, and scrubbed the block and got some paint on...






Pulled off the old Tri-Y headers and they were thin and when I tried to get the old AIR injection tubes, they wouldnt come out, and so I cut them off...

When I tried to weld the up, they were so thin I just burned thru the manifolds.
Replaced them, with SS long tubes..

 

[KeyBlazer]

I also rebuilt and resealed the NP205 and did the twin stick conversion while I was in there.

 

[max 02]

Nice!
I’ll watch.

 

[KeyBlazer]

I’ve also gone thru and serviced the axles, and added better covers.
I wanted the same both ends but couldn’t find the 12 bolt rear with Yukon.
But I did find rear had a locker or LSD at least.
I found a thick aluminum cover for the rear.


Built some hood reinforcements...


Header test fit



Holey Fuel pump


Poly engine mounts.

 

[KeyBlazer]

So I’m just updating the thread with where I am currently and where I want to be…
But there are questions coming!

Example.
My frame is good around the steering box… but 35s and off-road… and heavy with the camper etc…
Should I get the ORD steering box brace?
Should I do the weld on reinforcement now, or with the brace it unlikely to crack?

Headers fitted great until I decided to upgrade the bolts, because the originals were too short with these 1/2 thick flanges... and they wouldn’t fit.
Some heat and beat ensued… good now







I decided to junk the original AC compressor and upgrade the Alternator from the 63a original.
Lots of reasons...
Original AC compressor bracket it on the header flange... restricts access the valve cover etc..

I bought the ICT billet mounting kit… and started test fitting using the original alternator.
I will Upgrade...
is 140a good enough, or is 200a too much for a V belt setup?
Truck will have 12k winch upfront, lots of offroad lights and 2x chassis batteries...




I am rebuilding the PS pump currently, so I need that all on, and in place before I move on the passenger side.

 

[muddybuddy]

Nice!

I would get steering brace regardless. I would say the weld on is optional if frame is in good shape, but if you plan to beat on it and you have welder, I would do it for peace of mind.

 

[KeyBlazer]

Thanks!
I have the gear…
TiG, MiG, spot welders.
English wheel, bead roller, Planishing hammer, tube bender, and tube roller, sheet metal brake, media blasting cabinets and a vapor blaster… most of which I’ve bought cheap, restored, and upgraded.
I’m a toolahilic really.
I am currently restoring a Millermatic 200 MiG welder that I got cheap, but my big welder is a Snap On MM250.

This the the rear axle cover.




I’m also adding a large trans cooler.


I sometimes get distracted tho…
Here is a couple of my other rides…

 

[doubletrouble]

I wanna know more about the hood reinforcements!

 

[KeyBlazer]

Its just a piece of 1 1/2" aluminum angle with 3/4" holes punched into it.
Used a Rotabroach bit.
I flared the holes, and made one of them over the weak spot in the hood, so in theory it would give in and accident.
I think I ended up putting it thru the english wheel to give it a matching hood curve before I drilled the holes
Let me see if I can find some other pics

 

[max 02]

Its just a piece of 1 1/2" aluminum angle with 3/4" holes punched into it.
Used a Rotabroach bit.
I flared the holes, and made one of them over the weak spot in the hood, so in theory it would give in and accident.
I think I ended up putting it thru the english wheel to give it a matching hood curve before I drilled the holes
Let me see if I can find some other pics

Installed pic! And how you attached it?

 

[KeyBlazer]

At the moment they are on with ST metal screws but I’m not happy with that.
I think I will put Riv-Nuts in instead.

 

[KeyBlazer]

Everything I touch I’m trying to make improvements to improve performance/reliability/longevity.
Transmission was serviced and a shift kit and aluminum pan added.



Engine/trans/suspension/Body mounts are all being replaced with polyurethane.



I removed the drivers side auxiliary gas tank.
No idea we’re it came from, or who made it, but I’m not 100% happy with the way it’s mounted. Need to work on that.
On the front it’s bolted thru the frame rail, and the rear it’s a piece of threaded bar thru the bed floor, and I don’t think either is substantial enough for a full tank in off-road situations.
I did clean it out, and sealed it with RedKote to start with.



I intend to build some steps/rock sliders that I think will sit below it, so that might give me a shot and adding substantial support.

 

[KeyBlazer]

That’s kinda caught me up here with most of what has happened so far.

I’m trying to focus on getting the engine up and running with the Holley EFI, but there’s still much pre-setup to do.
Today I’m hoping to get the passenger side headers off, as I’ve been struggling with the bolts. Then it’s pass side engine mount replacement with poly too. Then I can get the headers on.

Once I have that done I can get into the fuel pump/filters mounting, and begin the fuel supply side of things.
I just pulled the stock gas tank so I can clean that out and seal it with RedKote too.
While it’s out I need to replace the level sender and fuel lines. They are hard as rock.
Also I want to mod the fuel filler neck so that it fills better and doesn’t spit back as these early models do. I saved a instruction sheet on that years ago from a forum that describes cutting off the narrowed section and moving the vent tube.

 

[KeyBlazer]

Busy day.
Old manifold bolts came out… in fact a lot of them were loose…
Glad I’m putting stage 8 bolts in.



Got some cleaning to do.


Old and out.


New and soon to be in.


Here is the pass side OEM gas tank.
I’d painted it with Rustoleum silver hammer 10* years ago, and outside looks good.






Neck tgat needs mods.