hope you plan on getting that fly wheel cut / re-surfaced . . . . 
CK5
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Other goodies.,...... got my XJ shaft and ford towers in and waiting on Bilstein 14” fronts and 12” rears.
Also scored a 00 SD front driveshaft for $50 at the salvage yard last weekend. And he even threw in a warn winch bumper that had been chopped? Why the hell would anyone do that??!!
Now debating on doing CV shafts, the front on my 205 isn’t a CV either. But I have a CV from my 85 blazer I used to have.
Also scored a 00 SD front driveshaft for $50 at the salvage yard last weekend. And he even threw in a warn winch bumper that had been chopped? Why the hell would anyone do that??!!
Now debating on doing CV shafts, the front on my 205 isn’t a CV either. But I have a CV from my 85 blazer I used to have.
You think I should? The clutch was only in the truck for about a year and a half before this crap happened. I guess it’s better to do it anyway since everything is out......After dropping the trans I don’t even think it was the clutch that was the problem. I think it may have been the slave. (Which my mechanic friend swore the clutch must have came apart, he felt the slave was fine). But I’ll post a video of the shaft on the slave, I don’t have experience with slaves. This is my first one, but can you tell me if this play in the shaft is normal? The clutch seems ok? I’m gonna replace it anyway since it’s down. Ordered a Luk.hope you plan on getting that fly wheel cut / re-surfaced . . . .
....heres the video of my slave shaft movement,
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thats just the center pin floating around in the rubber boot like normal when not installed .
pop the boot off and or pull the pin from the boot and you will see its just a ball end in a cup inside the slave .
what was the symptoms ?
and post a face pic of the fly wheel . like you just did of the clutch disck . and post a face pic of the pressure plate with the disc off it .
you got funky wear on that disk down near the engine crank area . note the black ring then the rest is brownish .
pop the boot off and or pull the pin from the boot and you will see its just a ball end in a cup inside the slave .
what was the symptoms ?
and post a face pic of the fly wheel . like you just did of the clutch disck . and post a face pic of the pressure plate with the disc off it .
you got funky wear on that disk down near the engine crank area . note the black ring then the rest is brownish .
Hope these pics help.
The problem was that I could push the clutch in and it would grab at the floor when I went to let out the pedal. Then I might could press it again and it would be ok, then the next time it would grab as soon as I started to lift the pedal off the floor. Then maybe would work a little better next time. We tried to bleed it again, pumped the crap out of it, but no change. Kinda like the slave wasn’t pushing it far enough every time. It wasn’t consistent. I did hit a big dirt mound when I left my house from the road grader, may have brought the front wheel off the ground, I’m almost certain that’s what caused the issue. My mobile mechanic friend jacked with it for an hour and he thought maybe a spring popped out of the clutch or something. Which we just replaced that clutch year and a half ago, (which it’s been working perfect since). That’s the whole reason it’s been parked for the last year.
The problem was that I could push the clutch in and it would grab at the floor when I went to let out the pedal. Then I might could press it again and it would be ok, then the next time it would grab as soon as I started to lift the pedal off the floor. Then maybe would work a little better next time. We tried to bleed it again, pumped the crap out of it, but no change. Kinda like the slave wasn’t pushing it far enough every time. It wasn’t consistent. I did hit a big dirt mound when I left my house from the road grader, may have brought the front wheel off the ground, I’m almost certain that’s what caused the issue. My mobile mechanic friend jacked with it for an hour and he thought maybe a spring popped out of the clutch or something. Which we just replaced that clutch year and a half ago, (which it’s been working perfect since). That’s the whole reason it’s been parked for the last year.
you got some heat up in that clutch . . . .need to cut the fly wheel for sure .looks like a newer cut was done but all the funky on it now is not good for a new clutch install .
clutch was messed up from the start . notice that section of almost untouched surface i talked about near the center .
and the hydro system can be a bit tricky to bleed out . best way i did mine years ago was bench bleed with 2 guys . 1 held the slave up high and the fluid resivor . the master was turned upside down so the suction was on the bottom then clamped in a vise . then bleed it by hand pumping . got out 1 tiny air bubble that was hanging around and it was solid every time after . with that air bubble i would get wierd pedal just like you said you have .
I just ordered a new flywheel,(rock auto was $51, cant find a local parts store to cut it down). Also ordered new master and slave,......for the prices on rock auto it’s hard not to. So instead of messing with it I’ll just replace it all!!!
I still have to figure out how mount the ford towers and Bilsteins and brace kit for the rear, bleed brake system, cleanup and paint undercarriage, Mount XJ shaft, fix play in steering column, put together one more 24 bolt wheel and tire,........and lots of other small things while I wait for the new stuff to come in. Lol.
gonna be saving cash next few weeks to order crossover steering kit. Hopefully I’ll have all this other stuff done by the time that comes in. Then it will be ready to drive!
I still have to figure out how mount the ford towers and Bilsteins and brace kit for the rear, bleed brake system, cleanup and paint undercarriage, Mount XJ shaft, fix play in steering column, put together one more 24 bolt wheel and tire,........and lots of other small things while I wait for the new stuff to come in. Lol.
gonna be saving cash next few weeks to order crossover steering kit. Hopefully I’ll have all this other stuff done by the time that comes in. Then it will be ready to drive!
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need to cut the fly wheel for sure .looks like a newer cut was done but all the funky on it now is not good for a new clutch install .
clutch was messed up from the start . notice that section of almost untouched surface i talked about near the center .
Why would it wear like that? Is there something I need to make sure to check when I install the new one? I wasn’t the one who installed it, but I will be doing it this time....I’ve never installed a clutch but it seems pretty straightforward,......
Waiting on new flywheel and shocks to come in, got the play in the steering column tightened up, and ordered a new turn signal switch so now I’ll have a functioning blinker lever!
While the trans is out I’m gonna fix the reverse light issue,( I haven’t had reverse lights since I did the manual swap back in high school). Gonna try and find the reverse light wire for the old TH350.
Also, does anyone know if I can put a light switch in my 205? It came from I think a 77 one ton, but where the switch goes, there’s a bolt to plug the hole. I have an indicator light on my dash (I know this because I plugged that wire into my 465 years ago and everytime I went into reverse, 4x4 light pops on). Just figured since it was out I could get it working properly.
While the trans is out I’m gonna fix the reverse light issue,( I haven’t had reverse lights since I did the manual swap back in high school). Gonna try and find the reverse light wire for the old TH350.
Also, does anyone know if I can put a light switch in my 205? It came from I think a 77 one ton, but where the switch goes, there’s a bolt to plug the hole. I have an indicator light on my dash (I know this because I plugged that wire into my 465 years ago and everytime I went into reverse, 4x4 light pops on). Just figured since it was out I could get it working properly.
Yes, you can put a switch in the 205 for a 4x4 light. 80's trucks had them too. You pull the detent ball plug.
The reverse light wiring just needs and extension.
The reverse light wiring just needs and extension.
shift rail for the 205 is specific to the shift light switch if i recall .
i have a few take out units i think in my stash of 205 parts .
i have a few take out units i think in my stash of 205 parts .
do know exactly which wires I tap into under the column?
Let me know if you do! And how much you want. If possible,.....I would need the plug for it too so I can have a connector for the 465 and 205. Thanks!
i will have to dig . but i am sure i got a rail / switch / pigtail .
i have 8-9 empty cases and parts to build 2-3 full cases .
i have 8-9 empty cases and parts to build 2-3 full cases .
I believe that they are two green wires in a 2 wire connector. Light and dark green. It would have originally been plugged into part of the neutral safety switch on the top of the column by the firewall, under the dash.
Thanks! It’s funny, I’ve just dealt with it all these years and it’s been an easy fix this whole time, kinda like the sloppy steering column and blinker switch, but the blazer has about a thousand “little things” that need to be addressed as everyone here knows with their own rigs.....But it’s gonna be like a whole new truck. Gonna be weird having stuff that works.
Tonight I started on getting the slop out of the shifter and got some more parts in today! Enough to keep me busy over the next couple weeks.....
Shock brackets in rear and towers in front done. Hope they are right cuz I drilled and bolted already! fought with the steering box for a while to mount on the frame and got the ORD brace installed, then topped off with the XJ shaft. new clutch in, now just power washing tranny and case to repaint and install.........also finished my steering column, thought u guys might like to see my high-tech steering column compress tool. Got tired of fighting with the spring.
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Now torn between, crossover steering for the blazer,.....or a FASS lift pump for the LML? 
, just need to hit the Lotto so I don’t have to make these hard decisions.
, just need to hit the Lotto so I don’t have to make these hard decisions.
Decided to take a break from my house projects today and spent the whole day in the garage. Kinda getting burnt out on painting my house and doing yard work last couple weeks, just need to be with my blazer...... Spent a couple hours Wire wheeling under the body and under coated , then cussed out the sm465 and Tcase a few times before finally getting them back in their home.....also installed the hubs that I got from @HI truck. Blazer is on 3 wheels now! Need to put one more 24 bolt wheel together.
I Rust-Oleum painted a truck tailgate I had to kinda match the blazer to get it ready to throw on. Had me thinking,...I may do orange pinstripe to separate colors......
Also, Called Jesse at HAD and ordered a flange for the SD rear driveshaft, and also went ahead and ordered a flange for the front output shaft too. I have a stock CV shaft from my old 85 blazer I thought about using,....but what does everyone else do for the front shaft without going broke on a custom shaft? Is there another front shaft that will interchange kinda like the SD shaft for the rear? I guess I should have asked Jesse more questions but it’s saturday and he didn’t answer when I called back, I may just have to wait till Monday to see if that flange will work for a 1350 CV joint for an upgrade later down the road.
I figured I would just get my truck going for now with the CV shaft i have for now and upgrade later. But when I put the two front shafts side by side, my current shaft is larger in diameter than the CV? Should I continue to run my current shaft or swap it to the CV style?
This week I’ll be bleeding brakes and hydro clutch, then adding fluids in everything, greasing the entire chassis, and replacing the motor mounts, hopefully HAD flanges will be in by the time I’m done and I can take the blazer for a test run!! Oh wait, gotta order crossover steering too! I knew I was forgetting something.
I Rust-Oleum painted a truck tailgate I had to kinda match the blazer to get it ready to throw on. Had me thinking,...I may do orange pinstripe to separate colors......
Also, Called Jesse at HAD and ordered a flange for the SD rear driveshaft, and also went ahead and ordered a flange for the front output shaft too. I have a stock CV shaft from my old 85 blazer I thought about using,....but what does everyone else do for the front shaft without going broke on a custom shaft? Is there another front shaft that will interchange kinda like the SD shaft for the rear? I guess I should have asked Jesse more questions but it’s saturday and he didn’t answer when I called back, I may just have to wait till Monday to see if that flange will work for a 1350 CV joint for an upgrade later down the road.
I figured I would just get my truck going for now with the CV shaft i have for now and upgrade later. But when I put the two front shafts side by side, my current shaft is larger in diameter than the CV? Should I continue to run my current shaft or swap it to the CV style?
This week I’ll be bleeding brakes and hydro clutch, then adding fluids in everything, greasing the entire chassis, and replacing the motor mounts, hopefully HAD flanges will be in by the time I’m done and I can take the blazer for a test run!! Oh wait, gotta order crossover steering too! I knew I was forgetting something.
I would suggest flexing it to find out how much angle you get and how much slip travel you need. But you will want to add extra in. I flexed mine with a forklift and with careful driving and thought that it was good. Then took it out and had lots of binding at the pinion yoke, plus I pulled the front slip apart. It was all a 3.5" travel slip with stock 1350 yokes.
I would bet that the CV shaft you have will need grinding on the stops to flex enough, if it's like the ones that I have.
Nice progress!
I would bet that the CV shaft you have will need grinding on the stops to flex enough, if it's like the ones that I have.
Nice progress!
Having another dilemma,.....I had 3 of the Hutchinson rubber beadlocks, not run flats, and put them in the 3 wheels I have mounted.....and I planned to just cut down a rubber run flat for the 4th tire. But it’s a pain in the a$$!! I’ve been through 2 sawzall blades already and only about a 1/4 of the way through. Even if I get it cut I don’t think I’ll be able to get it “round” enough to balance properly. No one around here has a water jet. Getting frustrated. I think I’ll just get a PVC insert from TWF for the 4th, I’d prob feel better if both front wheels were the same and get 2 inserts, but I don’t wanna break open that wheel again to replace it. I’ve gotten all 3 of my wheels to seal great no leaks so far.
