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My good bye 1 tons REbuild

Yes you rotate the chunck 180. It was already done in those pics, 4 of the facrory holes stay. There studed so is makes it easy to mark and drill the holes. Then you just tap the holes and you're done.
 

Clod_King said:
I have a question for ya:

How much slop, if any, is there in those clevis ends??

Anything to worry about?


No slop at all, these rams hold up very well.





 

86Cucvbeater said:
Are u still gonna run those little 42s? i like the spring plate idea. must post video when finished:)


HAHA, Yea the little 42's are going to work for a while. I will upgrade eventually but I'm spending too much money too fast. You know how it goes. I plan on 47" LTB's, but my plans are always changin.



 
thanks man.

Me personally, I have only experienced a clevis type "attachment point" (whatever you want to call it) on lawn mower trailers, and well clevis style tow points on a bumper. And they were all sloppy as h e l l , so i just had to ask for my own personal information.
 
b89 said:
how are the brakes coming along?


I have to order the front rotors today, then take all of the rotors to a machine shop. The hub is a little too fat for the rotors. For front calipers I'm going to run Duramax front calipers, and the rears will be 84 ish 3/4 ton chevy front calipers. The problem now is I don't have cores and it's costing me double.

I'll keep you guys updated.

 
Go hit up the junk yard or local brake shop to see what they have. Might be able to find some cores there.
 
M-1028 said:
I have to order the front rotors today, then take all of the rotors to a machine shop. The hub is a little too fat for the rotors.


So what rotors fit without having to modify the hubs? Seems like alot of money to spend on those hubs then have to have them modified to get a rotor to bolt up. I would hope there is something that would work with the way the hubs are?
 
OL14BLAZ said:
So what rotors fit without having to modify the hubs? Seems like alot of money to spend on those hubs then have to have them modified to get a rotor to bolt up. I would hope there is something that would work with the way the hubs are?

There is a floating rotor that works but I don't wanna go that route. As far as I know there isn't a rotor that will slide on. The machine work is inexpensive, I could probly clearance the rotor hats with a die grinder but thats too much work for me. You only have to remove 1/4" from the rotor hats so its not a big deal.

The fact that your trying to use 1 ton stuff on 2.5 axles makes me realize some of the stuff might have to be modified.
 
Don't have much progress to report, I'm waiting on parts. I ordered Willwood 4 piston caliper all around. I'm also waiting on my orbital valve and my rear pump. I'll get some pics when I get more done.
 
Still waiting on parts:mad:

I did manage to get my 205 in and rear shaft, fixed my broke crossmember, and finished the twin sticks:D

here are pics of my cable shifters and 205

P1010104.jpg

P1010106.jpg

P1010105.jpg
 
I've been seeing some questions about front rockwell clearance. So I decided to take some pics and give you guys some measurements.

My truck has 52" front springs (axle is moved 3" forward) and about 7-8" of lift. I'm also running a 6.2 but I think the engine crossmembers and oil pans are around the same.

The engine crossmember is 3" from the toploader and the oil pan is 4-5" at the closest point.
P1010110.jpg

P1010109.jpg
 
is that the ride height measurements? have you had a chance to flex it and see how close they get?
 
Are those cable shifters something you fabbed up yourself, or something you bought?
 

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