CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

My good bye 1 tons REbuild

M-1028 said:
No you can run single ended rams w/full hydro, the only difference is the double ended rams apply equal force both ways, compaired to a single, it will be stronger pushing than pulling. There is not a big difference in the forces but a huge difference in price.




Big91RustyBucket said:
The difference is the double ended ram is balanced. Therefore you have equal turn's and force to both direction's. SO say 4 turn's one way 4 turn's the other. with a single ended ram you lose something like 15% out of being equal in one stroke. and you really don't need 2 ram's to push the tire's.

My last truck had 44" Bogger's welded , and a 2x8" TSC Ram. Worked great.


You guys keep mentioning things about being "equal"...if the ram is setup to have fluid pumped in at both ends (piston has u-packs on both sides so the flange opens up no matter the side the fluid applies pressure on) then you shouldn't have any difference...were you guys just refering to the way the steering is setup....as in the linkage (push vs. pull)?
 
Avery4jc said:
You guys keep mentioning things about being "equal"...if the ram is setup to have fluid pumped in at both ends (piston has u-packs on both sides so the flange opens up no matter the side the fluid applies pressure on) then you shouldn't have any difference...were you guys just refering to the way the steering is setup....as in the linkage (push vs. pull)?
When the fluid is pushing the piston, it is pushing on the entire end of the piston... say a 3" diameter (inside the ram)
Now, when that same piston is pulling, it's only applying force to a 1" wide strip on the outside of that same 3" because the 2" ram takes up space on the pushing surface area.
Does that make any sense? It's alot harder to put it into words without illustrating it. I can put it into a mathmatical equation though. Here's the key...
A = total area of the PUSH side
B = total area of the rod
So that would mean... A - B = PULL side; is that any better?
 
No that makes sense and I had thought about that already...the shaft is taking up space on that side of the piston...

What about a difference in pressure? Say you run 1000psi when pushing the piston out but then when you are pushing the piston back in you run 1500psi? Is it possible to do that with different size valves or will it not matter? I'm sort of thinkin' it won't matter since its a closed system and the hydraulic motor can only supply so much pressure....iono I'm just rambling now but either way that truck is going to be sweet!
 
I know were your coming from, but trust me the difference is not worth trying to re engineer things. A friend of mine has been running a single ended ram for 4 years, yes it takes more turns one way than the other. The only way you could tell is if you counted the turns.

Later
 
Avery4jc said:
No that makes sense and I had thought about that already...the shaft is taking up space on that side of the piston...

What about a difference in pressure? Say you run 1000psi when pushing the piston out but then when you are pushing the piston back in you run 1500psi? Is it possible to do that with different size valves or will it not matter? I'm sort of thinkin' it won't matter since its a closed system and the hydraulic motor can only supply so much pressure....iono I'm just rambling now but either way that truck is going to be sweet!
I suppose that would be possible. You could put some kind of restrictor valve on the "high" side to bring it down the low sides pressure. If it's REALLY matters that much, I'm sure it CAN be done. Is it worth the trouble though?
 
no its just one of those it could be done things...although even if you put a smaller diameter opening for the valve on one end I think it would end up at the same pressure it just may not happen as quickly but eventually it would put enough fluid through to build pressure...
 
Avery4jc said:
no its just one of those it could be done things...although even if you put a smaller diameter opening for the valve on one end I think it would end up at the same pressure it just may not happen as quickly but eventually it would put enough fluid through to build pressure...
I think restrictor was the wrong word. Bypass is what I was actually referring to. Bleed off the excess pressure down to match the low side.
 
Front axle with the spring plates mocked up

P1010098.jpg
 
Pics of the rear axle in its new home. Still have to order some parts and start workin on the rear breaks. Notice the rear diff is centered.

P1010101.jpg

P1010102.jpg

P1010100.jpg
 
Quick Suggestion: put a small radius on the ends of those spring clamp plates to avoid concentrating the stress in the spring at the edge of the plate.
 
Because thats how my springs were before and didn't feel like changin it. The rear springs look stiff but there suprisingly soft.
robert97dodge said:
Why dont you pull some leaf out of the rear leaf pack and build some taller spring perches?
 
They sit flat on the spings, so I'm not worried about it. These plates are only 2" longer than stock so I don't see much of a problem.
Thanks for the concern.

BGKYK5 said:
Quick Suggestion: put a small radius on the ends of those spring clamp plates to avoid concentrating the stress in the spring at the edge of the plate.
 
M-1028 said:
Notice the rear diff is centered.

P1010101.jpg

To center the chunk you had to rotate it 180° right? And drill new holes in the housing? Looks great!!!!:bow:
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom